AZ-240z

Check out Banzai Motorworks, www.zzxdatsun.com. Go to his catalog, look under rubber and I think you will find what you need. Dan

Have you seen the reproduction firewall insulators that Classic Datsun Mortorsports offers. Depending on the degree of originality you are looking for, for $140, it looks pretty original, has insulation backing, and all of the correct cutouts. Don't know what the material is but may be worth checking out. Dan

This may or may not be of any help, but I will tell you how my dealer added system originally worked when new. To turn the system on with the dealer added A/C control switch, the top slide OFF-VENT-HEAT control lever on the air control panel had to be in the OFF position which closed off airflow from the outside so air had to be drawn through the A/C condenser. If you were to find the vent closed by this lever on the upper right side of the blower motor/passenger foot well area, you would find a small micro-switch and contact which senses the action of this vent. I believe that this micro-switch closed the circuit between the dealer installed ON-OFF temp control switch and the compressor. Electrics aren't my thing so this is a pretty rough explanation, but worth taking a look at. Too bad someone doesn't have a copy of the original installation proceedures that came with the aftermarket A/C systems. Dan

When you put the O-ring back in, put a little lub on it. This will keep it from distorting and being pushed out of postion when you tighten the retainer ring.

Jerry, Sorry that I didn't notice your question earlier. Nice find on the factory inserts. It has been 40 years so I can't be very specific, but I would agree that the ride and performance was probably most comparable to the KYB inserts as I remember. I do remember having a set of Konis installed some years later and noticing a markedly firmer ride with less body sway. I currently have a set of Mulhollands paired with repro springs offered at Courtesy a few year back. One of the Mulhollands, after probably some 30+ years on the shelf, is binding and the ride is way too firm so I am considering another set of Konis. I would do KYB-GR2 inserts but don't want to chance an increase in ride height above stock with the gas insert, and don't want to cut my repro springs. Let me know what you end up doing with yours. Are they going on your red car being done at Classic Datsun? Dan

Hi Rich, My take on what you have mentioned is, if paint runs, overspray, orange peel, inspection marks, etc., were not supposed to be there, factory quality control processes would have remedied these flaws prior to shipping. Concours events for such iconic cars as Corvette take great pains in duplicating these for total originality. As Carl Beck mentioned the tie-down hooks were the same as plastic covers for door panels, bags for hub caps and set belts, etc., all meant to get the care safely and undamaged to the dealship, but "weren't supposed to be there" for ultimate delivery to the customer. I am sure that there was a factory directive listing processes to be completed for preparing a car for sale probably including removing these tie-down hooks. As for undercoating, my car arrived at the dealership sans any undercoating. My dealership offered a process called Z-Bart rust protection. I definitely see your point though, Rich, as the stated mantra for judging concours stock class is, "AS IT LEFT THE FACTORY" which could be possibly clarified to answer our questions for these hooks. Just my opinion, and not based on any factual information. Dan

Just a thought, but it appears that you probably have at least one idler pulley under the hood for the A/C compressor. I would do a little oil on the idler pulley bearings to see if you can make that noise go away. Idler pulley bearings are quite often a culprit and make that kind of sound. Hope this helps. Dan

There are many products on the market made to preserve vinyl. My understanding of the science behind these products is that the chemical components that comprise vinyl will, under prolonged exposure to heat, sunlight and UV, etc., break down and off-gas thereby actually shrinking the material causing cracking. Products such as Armorall, Lexol Vinylex, etc., are supposed to replace those chemical components and preserve the integrity of the vinyl. Vasoline and mineral oil may seal the vinyl to inhibit off-gasing, but that is just conjecture on my part Again, this is just my take after reading many posts on the subject in this forum. I recommend going to the search function, plugging in a key word such as "Armorall" and then take a look at all of the threads which have discussed this in the past to help you form your own conclusions. Good reading. Dan

Grantf, I'll risk being criticized, again, on my research information, but, from what I have learned, this little tab is supposed to be trimmed and glued to the little front face of that trim brightwork, and not tucked underneath. This is also confirmed in a book "How to Restore Your Datsun 240Z" written by Wick Humble. I am not at home so can't give you a page reference right now in case you had that book. Maybe someone else can substantiate this. Dan

E, when I bought my car off the show room floor, it came from the factory with the single piece, tubular, outer hatch weatherstrip. Manufacture date 1/71 series 1 car and purchased on 03/25/71. Dan

E, lets work it backwards from CD, section 143A-3. Item 51-01, 76910-N3000, is indicated with arrow in the schematic as to top piece, ie., 1 required. The assumption with this part is that it has the tubular cross section profile. Item 52-01, 76911-N3000, is indicated with arrow in the schematic as the side pieces, ie., 2 required. The assumption with this part is that it has the non-tubular cross section profile. Now if we go back to section 121-5, these same two part numbers are offered in items 60-02, and 61-01, respectively. You are obviously correct that there are no date codes other than that given for the respective sections of the CD. I interpret this to mean that these parts are correct for early and late cars, but, as item 60-01, 767910-E4100 is listed first, or primarily, in this section, it appears to be a stand-alone part for the outer hatch weatherstrip. If there were two side pieces to go with 76910-E4100, they would be listed as 76911-E4100, but that part number doesn't exist. It doesn't seem reasonable that an E4100 part would be paired with an N3000 part, ie., top piece and the two side pieces in my limited experience working with original parts for our cars. Given the information on the CD, I don't think this is too great a leap in reasoning, especially since I have corraborated this reasoning with the substantiation I posted in #7 above. Dan

E, I do think you are reading to much into it. Lets take the part numbers at face value. E-4100 numbers have always represented the earliest parts. N-3000 numbers, later applications. My car, 1/71 production, had the single piece tubular weatherstrip when I purchased it new. If you look at Kats web site, he took great care in puting on the correct, single piece outer hatch weatherstrip on his blue car, as represented in one of his pictures. Banzai Motorworks sells reproduction single piece tubular weatherstrips through his catalog on line, and Mike McGinnis at Banzai represents this as correct for the 1970-1972 240Z. He is one of the most knowledgeable, quality restoration experts that I know of. All of the original, unrestored examples I have seen has proven to me that the single piece is correct for early cars. So, you are correct E to say that it depends on who believe what. It is something that I researched when restoring my car. Dan

Actually, the tubular one piece was original to series 1 cars. Banzai sells the repro piece.

Chris, I usedthe plasti-dip to restore the oil press sender wire harness clip that attaches to the right engine mount. It came out PERRRRRRRFECT! I snapped off one of the under hood harness clips and have thought of making one. If I could find a sheet of metal stock of the correct malleability and gage, it would be easy to cut out a duplicate clip of correct size and shape, dip one end in plasti-dip, put a dimple in the other, exposed metal,end to simulate the appearance of a spot weld, and then, using a dab of a body shop epoxy, fasten it in the correct location. Just a quick and dirty outline of one possible method. I have used an epoxy before that body shops have used and it is extremely strong. Parts will break before the epoxy fails. A little touch-up paint deftly applied and it would be indistinguishable from original, I am certain. Dan Dang, Jerry, you were too fast for my slow typing and thinking!!!!

Keith, I consulted my trusty club parts CD, and came up with #24220-E4101 for this wire clip. This part number is used up to, and beyond 8/76. Kats had researched this item and found an early iteration of this clip. He shows pictures on his web site of both early and later styles of this clip. Dan

Keith, Chester & Herod auto carpet is still in Escondido, just google chester & Herod for contact info. Dan

Do a quick search for stock vs. aftermarket thermostats. ONLY USE NISSAN OEM THERMOSTATS!!!!!!! Dan

Michael, I can only confirm that the two decals I have pictured are gold. I also think that they were made in a silver material originally but have no first hand knowledge or evidence of this. I don't necessarily agree that yours represent "early" and "late" examples. The decal with the part number was meant for cars in the California market as stated on the decal, but both, as indicated on the decals, were applicable to 1971 model year cars. My car was acquired from a California dealer when I purchased it in Tucson, had the 1971 California gold decal on it, but it was destroyed in the restoration process, thus my need to reproduce one. Your decal, as revised, look real good. I will mention, in my experience, that the things that you really need to pay attention to is, not only the font style, but the different degrees of boldness of the type. Too bold, or visa versa, and it doesn't look authentic. Also, the finish of the gold is a satin, not glossy, finish. Too glossy and it look reproduced. The gold is more of a gold/silver color with just a hint of a greenish cast. Hope this hasn't confused the issue, just things I have struggled with when I did mine. I'll be a buyer when you get them finished to your satifaction. Dan

Bob, I know that there was at least two different aftermarket evaporators, each with a different location of the drain tube fitting, that were used with the dealer installed airconditioning systems on the early 240z. I will try to attach a picture of one of the systems showing drain location. Dan

Michael, this is the last emissions decal that I have reproduced. The pictures shows the gold material with kind of a mottled finish. This is scanner reflection as the decal is very uniform in color. Dan

Michael, I'll try, again, to add pictures from my files of these decals. The first attachment is a gold, not silver, of a '71 decal that does not have the part number. The other is also gold with the part number. I've done the first one without part number on gold, and am still trying to get the other decal with part number correct to my satisfaction. I'll also try to upload a picture of the first one I did later. Dan

[ATTACH=CONFIG]45212[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45210[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45209[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45211[/ATTACH] Michael. Sorry, but I still don't see any quotation marks on the pic of your original decal (attachment #2). I'll try to attach a picture from my files for clarification. I meant to say that the part number is 14805 E4603, which you corrected. Dan

Michael, With reference to the second attached decal, the 1971 Calif. with part number, the font on the top line appears a little small, and spacing of the words on this top line is off. The word neutral has no quotation marks on this particular decal, and toward the bottom, the 6 %, the % symbol has a small line connection the top of the left zero to the top of the diagonal slash. At first glance, everything else looks real good, and, your are correct in that it is gold. The tuff part will be to get a real good match to the original gold finish. Good luck. Also, the part number should be 14605 E4603, not E4503. Hope this helps. Dan

Thanks, again for the great prompts for my pics, Chris. Just took a close look at my balance tube and found "E46 JAPAN" cast into the underside. When compared to your picture, Chris, this would be found on the other end and opposite side of the balance tube. Needed a mirror and flashlight to see it as it is on underside as mounted in the car. The other difference is, it has both hose connection locations, top or end. The end port in mine has a threaded plug, and the check valve to balance tube hose is connected at the top location. And, again, my car is one of the very last series 1 cars (vin# hls30 20419). Dan

Thanks, Chris. I'll give it a shot. What-da-ya-know......It woiked. These cloth tags that I have appear to be a soft, shiny silver, silk fabric with an adhesive on the back. Dan