AZ-240z

Guy, this car is just amazing, nice job. What is the finish on the valve cover? I'm just finishing up my orange Z to total stock original and it is truly a fun trip. Dan

Jan, Glad to hear you found the problem. Dan

Hey Jan, I know nothing about the 280z, mine is a '71, but experience similar symptoms with my car. Turns out it was a spart issue with the dizzy. I have the stock distributor, and, after pulling off the cap, there is a white plastic terminal assembly mounted on the top edge of the dizzy body. I had a pro chase down the problem, and it seems that this plastic terminal piece had cracked allowing a grounding or arcing causing a missing, bucking of the engine. Sorry I can't be more informative, but, if you have a stock distributor, a spark, engine firing, issue is something to consider. Replaced this little plastic terminal and problem solved. Good Luck Dan Just thought I would mention, since you live in Tucson where I grew up, there is a shop that knows Z cars and works on mine. The owner has worked on Zs for the last 40 years and is very good. The shop is "Micro Import Service" in case you get stymied.

I just had my valves adjusted, and agree with what Diseasd mentioned. The mechanic that did my adjustment popped out each rocker and checked the wipe surface for pitting and wear. I watched the process and he said that a pitted wiper surface on the rocker could rapidly wear and damage a cam lobe. He began working in Datsun dealerships and Z cars in 1973.

Jim, after reading this, I just realized that I bought my "918 Orange Babe" 6 days before you bought your car, and I turned 29 6 months later. So, my congratulations on such a wise purchase and all of the enjoyment it has brought you. Dan Slagle hls30-20419, original owner L24-027116

Jim, is it just me, or are your heater hoses going throught the firewall grommets reversed? They both end up at the correct hookups, but, on my car, the inlet hose goes through the bottom firewall grommet and the outlet hose goes through the top grommet. Dan

I would go the www.zhome.com and scroll down to Z REGISTER on the left side of the home page. I took a quick look there and hls30-87164 build date is 03/72 & hls30-87414 build date is 04/72. Your car appears to be right in the middle. Dan

Hi Mike, Just to get you started, I would try the most obvious first. That would be to replace the thermostat with a "NISSAN" unit. Aftermarket thermostats tend to have a much smaller apurature to pass coolant than the stock unit, adding to an overheating problem. While you have the housing apart it wouldn't hurt to take a look at the temp sending probe also. Much has been written on this problem in previous posts, a wealth of knowledge if you search with a few key words. Good luck. Dan

My bad, I replied to an old thread. Please ignore!

Under the ash tray, you will find that there are a couple of screws holding the fuse panel. You will need to remove these and, either, unplug and remove the fuse panel, or try to work the console out and around the fuse panel and its mounting bracket attached to the console. Make sure you disconnect the battery before removing the fuse panel as it would be easy to touch it to surrounding structures and short it out. I found it easiest to just remove the fuse panel making sure to tag all connections for correct reinstallation. You will also find that the choke wires are possibly retained to the console by a couple of metal clips attached to the underside of the console. I found it easiest to disconnect the choke cables from the carbs and withdraw the cables through the fire wall grommet during removal of the console. When removing the console, put the car in 4th and work the console out by lifting the rear and working it out aft and over the shift lever. I have found that sometimes the more labor intensive method is the best as it creates less risk of damage. Take your time, and good luck.

I was doing a search through old threads for valve stem cap information, came across this old thread about D-cap differences, and realized I might be able to help define the date when the newer D-caps were introduced. I had purchased a full set of 14 x 4 1/2" steel wheel and there original D-caps. The seller had purchased his 240Z new, and, after a couple of weeks, as he explained, had removed and stored these wheels and caps favoring the look of aftermarket wheels. These wheels and caps are in close to perfect condition, not rust, etc., and, all four wheels had identical date stamps of 11-70. They, also, have the valve stem hole centered on a spoke as defines the earliest caps. If you were to look at wespaks post #17 above, he has caps dated 2-71 with the valve stem holes centered between spokes. I have no reason to question the creditability of the seller of my wheels and caps, so it would seem a logical conclusion that the change-over date may have coincided with the transition between series 1 and series 2 cars sometime in the middle of 1-71. Dan

That is a pretty severe deduction for Charlie's car, Jim. To have gotten down to correct valve stem caps indicates that his car must truly be spectacular. Does he also have the original tires? I would be interested in buying at least four of the Pacific Industries valve stem caps so please let us know if you get a positive reply from Pacific Industries. I also have a spare Bridgestone Superspeed-20 tire with this valve stem. Dan

Jerry, the parts CD really doesn't nail it down for you. I do know that the right switch in your picture was on the series 1 cars which would be up to production date of 1/71, as it was on my 1-71 car, and may, indeed, have been found on all '71 cars. The part number would have to be 25910-E4600. I am guessing that the other switch in your picture (left switch) would have a part number of 25910-E8300 or E8800. My best guess is that the left switch would be correct for your car and the E8300 or E8800 series part numbers would be common to many parts correct for your 6/72 car. No very scientific, but just my best guess. Dan

My car was "ziebarted" by the dealer when new. Zero rust 40 years later.

Marty, If you may be swaping the seats around, another related point of interest is, the fore/aft seat adjust lever at the bottom of the seat cushion should, also, be next to the center drive tunnel. I say this because, you may need to swap seat backs, and not the entire seats for correct installation. Dan

My apologies to all. My above post is not accurate. After taking a closer look at my car, the diverter flap that changes from vent to heat is, indeed, behind the center air control panel and incorporated in the heater box. This would most likely require removal of dash for easy access to the heater box. Again, sorry for the mis-information by relying on a fragile memory. Dan

I don't think the dash has to come out to access this diverter flap and renew the gasket material. I could be wrong, but you can just unbolt the heater box from the firewall, disconnect the diverter flap actuation cable from the right side of heater box, remove air ducting (don't forget to take out small retainer screws that secure the ducting) and drop the heater box. It's been a while since I have done this so recall might be kind of sketchy, but no need to take out dash I am quite sure. Dan

I, too, purchased my car off the showroom floor with the front bumper bar already installed on the front over-rider bumpers. The rubber on the bumper, as mentioned above, was cut to accomodate the installation of the bar. Personal preference and opinion, had I a choice originally, I would not have had these protector bars installed on either the front or rear bumpers as I think they impart greater damage to the parts they are supposedly protecting, and they detract from the appearance of the car. Just my opinion! Dan

You probably have the most realistic solution, Arne, and have considered this option. I could just use the KYBs and take a little off of my repros. It would virtually be impossible to know that the springs were modified and, sometimes, accomodation is the only reasonable solution. Probably wouldn't be too difficult to find a set of repros, as you say, Again, you have mentioned this in previous threads, but how much spring did you remove using KYBs to adjust for 3/4 " increase above stock height? Dan

Hi Jerry, I was just in San Diego a couple of weeks ago and wanted to go visit with Les but it didn't work out. I would be interested in your inserts and checked out the part numbers in the thread you mentioned. From what my parts CD says, the 56205-E4125 inserts are for the rear (soft ride) for 11/69 to 10/74 cars which would work for my 01/71 car. But, the 56105-N3785 are described as the front (firm ride) from 11/74 which doesn't match up with my 01/71 car. Is my thinking correct, Jerry? Did Les use KYBs with stock springs on your car, or did he cut the springs down? Thanks for your help Jerry look forward to your response. Dan

Thanks Arne, No, I haven't checked with Nissan. Just assumed they would be NLA, but I will check. My mechanic has used KYBs on other cars and said he didn't notice any height issues, but, as you said, the consensus here is an increase in ride height above stock, and I don't want to cut my repro springs down. Ride height with the Mulhollands is at, or a little above, stock on my car now. I think that the repro springs are a little stiffer than stock and may be responsible for a little height above stock. Dan

This is look'n for a needle in the proverbial hay stack but thought I would ask. The shop where I get my car worked on came across a set of 4 used original 240Z stock shock inserts. They look to be in very good condition for rebuilding, but, when they were removed, the strut seal kits (nuts with integral rubber seals) were thrown out. If I could find those 4 strut seal nuts, my mechanic said he can find some integral rubber seals that would work with these nuts. The set of Mulholland hydraulic shocks currently on my car, although NOS, are binding so no longer usable. My choices, and we have talked about this in earlier threads, are either to find original hydraulic shocks, or use KYB-GR2 low pressure gas charged hydraulic inserts. My hope is that someone who removed and replaced their original stock inserts my have kept there original strut seal kit nuts. Thanks. Dan Original Owner 1/71 240Z hls30-20419

Carl, 240dkw has perfect pictures of the missing bracket. Much better than any I could post. Good luck. Dan

Rich, Just curious, as I, too, use a Lexol product, but it is the Lexol Vinylex protectant for vinyl, rubber, and plastic. Are you sure that the recommendation wasn't for this, as opposed to the Lexol "Leather" product? If not, did the recommendation come with any specific reasons why the leather product would be superior to the vinylex? I have used the Vinylex on a NOS dash for the last 6 years as a hedge against deterioration. It leaves a nice, low luster finish and seems to maintain the supple, soft original feel. The car is garaged full time and only exposed to sunlight a couple of times a month for 45 minute drives. Thanks Rich. Dan

Looks like you're missing a piece. Mine has a metal bracket that the cable passes through to hold the cable sleeve stationary so the cable will be able to push and pull against this bracket. The bracket attaches with the screw shown in the top, center of your picture. I will try to get a picture of mine attached to this thread sometime today. Dan