AZ-240z

After breaking my 4sp 240z in in 1971, the only thing I ran out of crossing the New Mexico desert was courage as the speedo was still accelerating past 120mph.

Andy, I still can't help but think that the little white plastic terminal insulator mounted on the top edge of the dizzy housing could be the issue. Have you tried ordering it from Nissan (part # 22403 - 18005 / Assy terminal) to see if it is available? You may not see a crack in yours, but it doesn't take much for arcing to occur, and it sure stopped the missing, bucking, power loss issues I was having. My dizzy was a new factory re-manufactured dizzy and was defective. I hesitate pressing the issue, but, if I am wrong, you are out maybe $5 for trying. Best of luck with a very frustrating issue. Dan

Funny you should ask! This is the exact combo of tire and wheels is on my bucket list. I also have an orange, totally stock, car and have been exploring a wheel and tire combo to compliment my 240z. I like the 14 x 7 & 14 x 7.5 Watanabe wheels for the old school look, but finding tires that legally fit wheels that wide with stock dimensions of 195/70 x 14 tires is impossible. On a totally stock suspended car, this is the only tire size that fills the wheel well, looks best, and fits without rub, in my opinion. Watanabe recommends their wheel size for an S30/240z as follows: (This information can be found on the follow Watanabe site listed under matching data. http://www.watanabe.com.au/ F: A 14-7.0 +3 offset & R: B 14-7.5 +1.5 offset So, now I am considering 15" Watanabe wheel as pictured by haZmatt with 205 / 60 x 15 tires and whose demensions are almost exactly the same as the stock 240z wheel (195 / 70 x 14). 205 / 60 x 15 tires which can be legally mounted on 7" & 7.5" wheels are, also, plentiful. Let me know what you think about my thoughts. Also, tire dimension comparisons can be easily made here: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos Additionally, haZmatt, I do not know the tire size you have pictured so would not hazard a guess.

Crimping and over-tightening screws could very easily crack this old, brittle, plastic insulator. I was amazed at how a little crack in this insulator caused such a profound engine problem. This would be an easy fix for a few bucks, and I think you can still find these connectors through Nissan, but not positive. Dan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNUbQSWwBwc&utm_source=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=Hagerty%20Weekly%20News%204-22-2015

The tach jumped only to reflect engine misfire due to the intermittent grounding problem with this faulty isolator/connector assembly.

Andy, I had a similar problem, though probably not as severe as yours. There is a part on your dizzy called the "assy-terminal" mounted on the lip of the dizzy under the cap, part # 22403-18005. It is a white plastic isolator which makes the electrical connection to the dizzy. If you remove this white plastic part and inspect it for cracks or deterioration, you may find that with this type of deterioration, as old plastic is want to do, could be causing a random grounding issue causing this intermittent problem. Replacing this little plastic part solved my surging, bucking, power problem and may take care of yours. FWIW, Dan

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/26879-exhaust-manifold-finish/?hl=%2Bexhaust+%2Bmanifold+%2Bfinish#entry235378

#4 vaccum advance goes to #2 front carb small port. #3 lower port goes to #5 small line on large block breather tube. #3 upper port goes to #1 small port on right side of your picture. ( The larger hose shown in #1 goes to the emissions air pump inlet fitting). I think I have that about right.

Glad to help when I can. Have fun with your project. Dan

I measured the cables on my car as follows: Negative cable length, not to include connectors --------------- 22 inches Positive cable length --------------------------------------------------- 25 inches Firewall ground cable length --------------------------------------------9 inches My cables are the correct OEM, NOS Nissan parts for my '71 240Z. Dan

Banzai Motorworks has formulated the engine paint in rattle cans, and he is very particular about originality. You might want to call Mike at Banzai for either the paint or possibly the formula which he may or may not want to share for obvious reasons. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRequests.php

What geezer said! My manual is the one dated 15 November, 1970, which seems to have corrected the items djwarner describes in his 1997 repro manual. The 1997 repro manual appears to be for the earliest series 1 cars as it, also, does not address or describe operating instructions for the automatic transmission, which my manual does address. It does appear that djwarner's repro manual is an accurate copy of the earliest manual when comparing it with blue's online manual.

I agree with sit4eunseen. Wick Humble describes a lot of the bright work on the 240z as Stainless Steel. The window frames, drip rails, windshield and hatch window trim, upper door squeege trim, and, the tailight panel trim are all stainless steel. If I were to reason why, it would be because many of these items would need to flex to install, or remove, likely cracking of any applied chrome plating. Just my two cents! Dan Edit; I'm just toooooo slooooooooooow on the keys.

Thanks siteunseen. This is the image I was trying to upload from my PC. Old Dog trying to keep up! Dan

This is a comment made in the KYOSAN FUEL PUMP installation instructions: Be sure to install insulator. Starting the engine without installing the insulator will immediately damage the rocker arm and may result in fuel pump or the engine being permanently damaged. We will not accept responsibility for any damage caused by fitting the pump without using the insulator. PS: Can someone briefly explain to me how to download images from my PC to my library file at this website? Thanks, Dan

The only other obvious item would be, have you taken the hoses off? There could also be tension on the actuator arm riding against the engine lobe. This tension would transfer to binding on the mounting studs. Dan

http://www.vredestein.com/car-tyres/classic/sprint-classic/sizes/ The original stock size is 175 HR 14

When you trim these rubber door weatherstrip seals, I strongly recommend doing two things. First, make sure that the weatherstrip is firmly seated in all of the corners and the rubber has not been stretched at all during installation. Then, when trimming, leave about 1/4 " longer. The rubber will compress for a nice tight fit, and this will also allow for any future shrinkage on the rubber. I did this on my NOS '70 door weatherstips, and the fit is so nice that there is no need for any adhesive to connect the ends. I also used a razor sharp exacto type blade that pretty much melted through the rubber for a perfect 90 degree cut that made for an almost invisible jointing of the ends.

I found that '3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner #08984' was quite effective both on painted surfaces and vinyl, used as directed on the container.

Sounds like I'm on the right track then, Chris. So, your 14 x 6.5j 'A's should have a +9.5 offset. That would calculate out to 4.125" or 105mm of packspacing which would give Her Majesty 5mm of clearance between the front spring perches and tire sidewalls. Ever crawl under her skirts to check that out? As much as I would like to get those Watanabe 14 x 6.5 'B's with +14.5mm of offset, just sounds like, with 110mm of backspacing, it's gonna rub the tires. The search continues! These Watanabes new to include a set of lugs and center caps would run about $2200. Your findings about your wheels helps a lot, Chris.

Thanks, Chris. I think there has been some confusion about the differences of type A & type B wheels. I had initially thought that it was the difference in design of the spokes as shown in your two illustrations, type A being the right picture where the spokes stop on top of the rim, and type B being the left picture with the spokes continue down the sides of the rim. Then, after reading some of Alan's comments here and other gleaned information, I have concluded that the difference between type A & B has entirely to do with the different offsets available, A being lesser offsets and B being greater. What do you think? Case in point. If you go to the following web site for Watanabe, Watanabe Racing Wheels - Home and go to "matching data", scroll down to S30 and you will see that the recommended Watanabe wheels for the S30 are type A on the front and type B on the rear in there respective sizes. I don't think they would recommend different wheel styles for front and back of the car. What is the offset of your Watanabes, Chris? Any thoughts about my fitment conclusions above with the +14.5mm offset on 14 x 6.5" wheels and the 110mm backspacing? I would really like to pick those Watanabes up, but not if they are that close to rubbing on the spring perchs in front. The clearance on the rear strut is no problem. Eiji is great to work with, so maybe if I commit to new sets of lugs and caps, he may offer some insight into my dilemma.

Thanks for mentioning Mike Brame, Alan. An oversight that should really include a number of others who have contributed mightily to our discussions of the unadulterated Z. And Alan, from someone who appreciates your contributions to my Zeducation, the backhanded compliment, I hope, puts a smile on your face, and on the faces of all those who have debated with you on this forum.

Rich, no need to beat yourself up. I think many of us are starved, but for those posts where we used to discuss all of those NOS parts that enhanced the originality of our restorations. Kats, Chris, Carl, and, yes, even Alan mentored me through there posts to complete my car to total stock originality. And you have one of the nicest survivors of an early Z in the country sitting in your garage. That makes it very difficult for us not to comment when we notice exceptions incorporated in Vintage Program cars, some possibly purposeful given the availability of parts and current safety standards. Dan