AZ-240z

Crimping and over-tightening screws could very easily crack this old, brittle, plastic insulator. I was amazed at how a little crack in this insulator caused such a profound engine problem. This would be an easy fix for a few bucks, and I think you can still find these connectors through Nissan, but not positive. Dan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNUbQSWwBwc&utm_source=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=Hagerty%20Weekly%20News%204-22-2015

The tach jumped only to reflect engine misfire due to the intermittent grounding problem with this faulty isolator/connector assembly.

Andy, I had a similar problem, though probably not as severe as yours. There is a part on your dizzy called the "assy-terminal" mounted on the lip of the dizzy under the cap, part # 22403-18005. It is a white plastic isolator which makes the electrical connection to the dizzy. If you remove this white plastic part and inspect it for cracks or deterioration, you may find that with this type of deterioration, as old plastic is want to do, could be causing a random grounding issue causing this intermittent problem. Replacing this little plastic part solved my surging, bucking, power problem and may take care of yours. FWIW, Dan

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/26879-exhaust-manifold-finish/?hl=%2Bexhaust+%2Bmanifold+%2Bfinish#entry235378

#4 vaccum advance goes to #2 front carb small port. #3 lower port goes to #5 small line on large block breather tube. #3 upper port goes to #1 small port on right side of your picture. ( The larger hose shown in #1 goes to the emissions air pump inlet fitting). I think I have that about right.

Glad to help when I can. Have fun with your project. Dan

I measured the cables on my car as follows: Negative cable length, not to include connectors --------------- 22 inches Positive cable length --------------------------------------------------- 25 inches Firewall ground cable length --------------------------------------------9 inches My cables are the correct OEM, NOS Nissan parts for my '71 240Z. Dan

Banzai Motorworks has formulated the engine paint in rattle cans, and he is very particular about originality. You might want to call Mike at Banzai for either the paint or possibly the formula which he may or may not want to share for obvious reasons. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRequests.php

What geezer said! My manual is the one dated 15 November, 1970, which seems to have corrected the items djwarner describes in his 1997 repro manual. The 1997 repro manual appears to be for the earliest series 1 cars as it, also, does not address or describe operating instructions for the automatic transmission, which my manual does address. It does appear that djwarner's repro manual is an accurate copy of the earliest manual when comparing it with blue's online manual.

I agree with sit4eunseen. Wick Humble describes a lot of the bright work on the 240z as Stainless Steel. The window frames, drip rails, windshield and hatch window trim, upper door squeege trim, and, the tailight panel trim are all stainless steel. If I were to reason why, it would be because many of these items would need to flex to install, or remove, likely cracking of any applied chrome plating. Just my two cents! Dan Edit; I'm just toooooo slooooooooooow on the keys.

Thanks siteunseen. This is the image I was trying to upload from my PC. Old Dog trying to keep up! Dan

This is a comment made in the KYOSAN FUEL PUMP installation instructions: Be sure to install insulator. Starting the engine without installing the insulator will immediately damage the rocker arm and may result in fuel pump or the engine being permanently damaged. We will not accept responsibility for any damage caused by fitting the pump without using the insulator. PS: Can someone briefly explain to me how to download images from my PC to my library file at this website? Thanks, Dan

The only other obvious item would be, have you taken the hoses off? There could also be tension on the actuator arm riding against the engine lobe. This tension would transfer to binding on the mounting studs. Dan

http://www.vredestein.com/car-tyres/classic/sprint-classic/sizes/ The original stock size is 175 HR 14

When you trim these rubber door weatherstrip seals, I strongly recommend doing two things. First, make sure that the weatherstrip is firmly seated in all of the corners and the rubber has not been stretched at all during installation. Then, when trimming, leave about 1/4 " longer. The rubber will compress for a nice tight fit, and this will also allow for any future shrinkage on the rubber. I did this on my NOS '70 door weatherstips, and the fit is so nice that there is no need for any adhesive to connect the ends. I also used a razor sharp exacto type blade that pretty much melted through the rubber for a perfect 90 degree cut that made for an almost invisible jointing of the ends.

I found that '3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner #08984' was quite effective both on painted surfaces and vinyl, used as directed on the container.

Sounds like I'm on the right track then, Chris. So, your 14 x 6.5j 'A's should have a +9.5 offset. That would calculate out to 4.125" or 105mm of packspacing which would give Her Majesty 5mm of clearance between the front spring perches and tire sidewalls. Ever crawl under her skirts to check that out? As much as I would like to get those Watanabe 14 x 6.5 'B's with +14.5mm of offset, just sounds like, with 110mm of backspacing, it's gonna rub the tires. The search continues! These Watanabes new to include a set of lugs and center caps would run about $2200. Your findings about your wheels helps a lot, Chris.

Thanks, Chris. I think there has been some confusion about the differences of type A & type B wheels. I had initially thought that it was the difference in design of the spokes as shown in your two illustrations, type A being the right picture where the spokes stop on top of the rim, and type B being the left picture with the spokes continue down the sides of the rim. Then, after reading some of Alan's comments here and other gleaned information, I have concluded that the difference between type A & B has entirely to do with the different offsets available, A being lesser offsets and B being greater. What do you think? Case in point. If you go to the following web site for Watanabe, Watanabe Racing Wheels - Home and go to "matching data", scroll down to S30 and you will see that the recommended Watanabe wheels for the S30 are type A on the front and type B on the rear in there respective sizes. I don't think they would recommend different wheel styles for front and back of the car. What is the offset of your Watanabes, Chris? Any thoughts about my fitment conclusions above with the +14.5mm offset on 14 x 6.5" wheels and the 110mm backspacing? I would really like to pick those Watanabes up, but not if they are that close to rubbing on the spring perchs in front. The clearance on the rear strut is no problem. Eiji is great to work with, so maybe if I commit to new sets of lugs and caps, he may offer some insight into my dilemma.

Thanks for mentioning Mike Brame, Alan. An oversight that should really include a number of others who have contributed mightily to our discussions of the unadulterated Z. And Alan, from someone who appreciates your contributions to my Zeducation, the backhanded compliment, I hope, puts a smile on your face, and on the faces of all those who have debated with you on this forum.

Rich, no need to beat yourself up. I think many of us are starved, but for those posts where we used to discuss all of those NOS parts that enhanced the originality of our restorations. Kats, Chris, Carl, and, yes, even Alan mentored me through there posts to complete my car to total stock originality. And you have one of the nicest survivors of an early Z in the country sitting in your garage. That makes it very difficult for us not to comment when we notice exceptions incorporated in Vintage Program cars, some possibly purposeful given the availability of parts and current safety standards. Dan

I am enjoying all of the comments and would be interested in this communties thoughts on Vintage Program Z-Cars. As theoretical future owners of this fine example of the Vintage Program, would you value this car more if you modified it with all of the correct factory parts as delivered from the factory, ie., a correct judged stock show winner? Or, do you think that this car would loose the intrinsic valuation element as it is no longer "as presented" as a Vintage Z program car? I think we are all motivated to value things differently depending on an individual's perspective. We may all eventually define what is "Correct", but what is "Rignt" for these fine cars? Dan

Hello dj, This may, or may not help, but here is what I have found in trying to understand the inherently low pressure readings on series 1 cars. Here is what Wick Humble in his book "How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car" had to say. By the way, this low pressure reading is, indeed, inherent to our early cars as this low pressure anomaly was present the day I drove it off the lot with zero miles on the clock. My car has the 140 psi gage and the 25070-89910 10kg sender switch. I asked my mechanic to check my oil pressure with his mechanical gage and these were the reading: Idle - 22 psi 3500 RPM - 64 psi My stock 140 psi gage and 25070 - 89910 sender the reading are: Idle - 0 psi 3500 RPM - 35 to 40 psi My car is 100% stock with a pretty tight engine with approximately 5M miles on it. My compression readings are 167, 166, 168, 176, 167, & 175 for cylinders 1 thru 6 respectively. I have peace of mind knowing that zero psi really means at least 22 psi as everything on my car will always remain factory stock. I also know that many mechanics, to give owners peace of mind, would install a roadster sender which will always give a positive reading. I used one for a time, but don't remember what the specific readings were except that it was always positive. I hope this helps in your quest for a sender. Dan

Terrific job, Jim. Your attention to detail and originality will be rewarded with a hugh sense of accomplishment. Any thoughts about your intentions for jute and carpeting. Dan