Bruce Palmer

"You picked a very hard type of carb to work on"???? Hitachi SUs?? That is too funny. Tech tip: At five turns downs on the nozzles, those carbs will almost assuradely be fat.

Anything you can get in, hit the key and drive off in is easily worth a grand. It's big old over weight slug with an automatic, but who cares. This would be the other side of the coin Carl just laid out.... nyuck nyuck

We at ZTherapy are proud to announce that we too have joined the ranks of the weatherstrip "out house". Ever since the supplier moved to the mid-west, "in order to streamline our operations" things have pretty well gone to hell in a hand basket supply wise.

When discussing parts prices, visualize the balls on a camel.......

The owners of ZTherapy left this morning heading for Solvang Sat. and then on to Orange for Sunday. I can supply a phone # if anyone would like to catch up with them at the show Sunday. Keep your eyes open for a blue 280 with Steve's triples on it.

Draining the tank probably saved you a ton of work. We've heard way too many horror stories about chasing gremlins left over from systems that were left to sit....... Have fun.

I have run this question by a number of knowledgable Datsun owners and mechanics and no-one can think of a reason why changing slave bore sizes one model to the next would make any sense. You might do a search under Wagner or Raybestos and see what their catalogs show.....

Has the car been sitiing with fuel in the tank all that time??

I can't think of a reason why the size of a clutch slave would change, model to model. Master cylinders, like brake masters, yes, but clutch slaves? I'd be very surprised. Let us know what you find.....

See, I tol' ya!! Multiple ways to skin this cat!! Nyuck nyuck

The bearings are a ZTherapy specialty and are available in either the complete REMAN ZT100 format or just the bare body ZT110 with the bearings butterflies and throttle shafts fitted and you swap everything else over.

You'll need to remove the float bowls from the bodies. There is a rubber indexer in there that orients the float bowl that will turn to goo in the soak. I doubt the composite floats will like the bath much either.....

First question I'd have is why are you wanting to do this? But in any event I have a small plastic pipe-ette like a tiny turkey baster that I use to add fluid so it should work well for extraction as well. And that'a a tiny baster not a tiny turkey. Or roll up a piece of paper towel tightly and stick it down the tube and let the towel soak up the offending product. Lot of ways to do it without removing the domes.....

Supraman, Our JUST SUs DVD might be the ticket for you now to walk you through the take apart, chase gremlins and reassemble and dial 'em in part of the project. None of us know what's in them in the way of NEW parts so that will have to be up to your serch. I'd guess you either have crap in the needles and seats (which would be coming from the final filter in the float bowl lid) or float level issues. I'd also get 2 float bowl lid gaskets as yours may turn into potato chips when you remove the lid to remove the needles and seats to douche them out with carb clleaner. All we can to carbs here is completely go through them to insure what's there in the way of parts, what's been done and the quality of the work involved. Of course the double sealed roller bearings is part of the deal as well. Let me know how we can help...

What is the history of the carbs? Have they been in service recently or sitting a long time? Old gas and crudded up fuel systems can play heck with the proper working of the few parts in an SU. Then again it could be any of the things mentioned already. A good pressure gauge can tell about that pump issue. 3 1/2 # is a good pressure for well functioning needles and seats.

Arne, Steve and I keep going round and round on this distributor rebuild issue. He recently ran down to Napa NISSAN and grabbed their distibutor machine with just idea in mind. We can certainly shorten that curve so you can control detonation and run more initial advance. Both good things. I'm coming around to the idea that tearing into other people's units will show up those advance plates that are junk (retainers busted and ball bearings missing) and NISSAN showed like 6 anywhere in the world. Once you have a customer's unit apart, I'm thinking you'd best be able to put it back together. So parts is going to be an issue. I'll do some checking on other sources.

Back to distibutors for a minute, I checked 3 elctronics we'd been playing with on the ball bearing issue and the T-bars read 9, 11.5 & 14.5 degrees and there are most certainly some that are higher than that. As I said, regardless what's built into the distibutor for advance, it is fixable.

We shorten the slots in the T-bar with a wire gun to shorten the advance. Some will do it with JB Weld and a dremel playing with the distance 'til the advance is down where the motor will live, like mid 30 degree neighborhood. A distibutor shop could more than likely do if for you as well. It would be a good time to check the bushing and see if the advance plate ball bearing are still there doing their job.

If you go into the distibutor and pull the advance plate out so you can see the T-bar down inside you'll see a number stamped on it. Double that number and that will tell you how much advance is built into that distributor. There is a lot of variation in that number, application to application, and some of them are way too much advance for early engines. This can be fixed. Any time we do an electronic distributor conversion we automatically re-curve to preclude detination. L motor pistons like having intact ring lands.. From a thread yesterday about Acar headed for the NWT it sounde like there are a couple of pretty good shops in your area + Ross Mullen 604-916-2567 Sports Imports

Chris, Steve and Ed both offer good suggestions on things to check.... When you do the spary around cheking for leaks, sparay all the mounting surfaces between the carbs and the head. Now, if and when you do pull the carb domes and pistons checking for whatever your checking for, grab a flashlight and look down in the fuel nozzles and see where the fuel level is in relation to the top of the nozzle. The static fuel level, if the floats are correct should be about a 1/16" below the top of the nozzle. This should be done shortly after the engine has been run. If gas is pooled up on top of the nozzles that will give a rich condition, if the level is farther down the tube that will give you a lean condition. I would guess, all things being equal this should be done with the nozzles at 2 1/2 turns down for full up top.

Question: Is there a car in the Islands that is more than 50 miles from saltwater?

Imagine a rear end with 300k on it being lowder than when it was new....

Arne, Put a pin in for Ztherapy. Steve and Pam and about 7 Z cars that i can think of. Oh and one for Terry Miller in Salem for an EProduction car Steve will be driiving this year.

As long as the plastic head is not damaged that's what we re-use. We don't care about the condiition of the brass nozzle tube itself.

We have nozzles. I would suggest you buy a pair as they will be of known & equal condition.