Bruce Palmer

Good luck. Wish we could help.

Ontario Canada or California or Oregon or?

Does your car have flat top carbs or round top carbs??

We found some. $4 each. As you can tell, we don't have a lot of call for them....

I highly recommend the Paintucation DVDs showing the skills needed to do what you are looking at doing. There are 8,427 ways to do it wrong and only a few ways of doing it right. Check out www.paintucation.com for info on the DVDs covering most of the stages of a good paint job.

Will, Two other things have come to mind to check. A spray around for vacuum leaks might show up something and checking for low float levels would be in order as well.

Mike, One thing you may have stumbled onto are the air horns in the stock can. They really are pretty functional vs the air breaking over a square corner with the aftermarket K&Ns without anything to roll that air into the carbs. Any of you looking for something to help that ugly airflow situation, I run the billet stub stacks from www.aptfast.com.

I line up on the lean side of the solution. If pulling the choke on solves it. It may only take half a turn to get to the sweet spot especially if it will at times start cold with no choke.

Are you running during warmup with the choke at least partially on, then once warm taking the choke off and the problem starts?

I'd like to sit down and have a heart to heart talk with the numnuts who gave the keys to the idiot kids.

That is a nice array of Z cars. The blue roadster carries a fair amount of personality with it too.

So you should be fine for the core on the nozzles and we can supply the nozzle outer if you want to start with one that hasn't been stressed. I forgot that yours (4 screw) was a screw in. Email me at sales@Ztherapy.com if you want to take this off list.

Mike, Jet tube = fuel nozzle.... It's the language barrier..... As long as the plastic head is okay, that's all we care about for the core. A far as what you might have done to the outer tube, that's a different story. You may need another body if the brass outer tube is mangled or boogered up so that a new nozzle may bind. One step forward and two steps.... the other way.

Hey guys, a little background on our kit vs ???. The ZTherapy kit is all inclusive of everything that'll solve all issues EXCEPT worn throttle shafts. The parts house kits do not contain nearly all the pieces our's does. The $180 price sounds high but after backing that nozzle core charge out, it's right where it should be.... The increase in the nozzle core charge to $50 was done to insure we get the old nozzles back. At the previous $30 core charge level, it apparently wasn't worthwhile for customers to send them back. We re-brass the plastic heads (which are NLA) and don't forget we can install different than stock nozzle orifices for specific applications, i.e. high altitude.

Steve and Pam are in LA for the goings on this weekend. I'll have Pam work up shipping nymbers as soon as she gets back. They don't trust me with that high tech information.....

Dustin, Can you post photos? It would be a great help to us in defining the solution,

We don't even need a set of bodies to build. We can build a set of what you need and ship them to you, no cores required. $730 + freight, including interior linkage, new return springs, gaskets to the manifold. our 4 hour fun filled action packed JUST SUs video or DVD and a 3 year warranty....

Tony, That is definitely NOT a Zcar Hitachi carb. That's some iteration of an SU SU, H, HD, etc. but not even an HS series which would be the parallel series to the Hitachi used on the Datsuns. That would make it really easy to tell why your rebuild kits weren't worth smack.

For every pump up (3 or 4 slow pumps should be plenty) and open-the-slave cycle, does the level in the resevoir drop some? Man, this is frustrating trying to do via the written word.....

Steve and Pam from ZTherapy will be there as well.

I would guess that you received 3 screw gaskets to the manifold which will work but aren't the best way to go. The "valve" issue, I assume, refers to the needle and seat. Back in the day there were two diferent available but today there is only one and you bend the float tang to compensate for the different lengths.

Do your carbs have 3 or 4 screws holding to domes on? What of the kits you bought from Black Dragon didn't fit/work?

Rick, We are going through a deal on the engine out of my wagon. The oil rings were stuck and I mean solid. Looked like coked up oil in the divots of the expanders to the point the rings were stuck!! I'd follow your budy's suggestion and give it a "rinse cycle" with something..... Heavy duty diesel oil ya say. Does he have a specific recommendation? Would it be a good break-in oil?

Go to www.ztherapy.com and look at the picture of the Euro style balance tube. All that is left is the PCV and brake booster taps. On an un-euro'd tube just make sure all the holes in the balance tube are plugged after removing the goodies.

Any over filling will just overflow into the engine and get burnt, no big deal. We have had a couple of situations related to us from the field that ought to be discussed. One customer said his carbs were going thru damper oil like crazy. The reason? He was filling clear to the threads at the plunger cap. Yep it'll go thru oil like s**t through a goose because everything above the top of the tube will get sucked right into the engine. Another with "running issues" finally admitted he was doing some tuning by putting 90W gear oil in the dampers.