Diseazd

Rich......You have to be patient with Chuck, but he's worth the wait. I can"t wait either........wish you were on the East Coast. Your work is awesome.......I believe we think a lot alike! We'll post 'em as soon as we can. Guy

Chuck finally started painting today! These were taken with a cell phone......will get Brandon to update with a real camera soon!

I recently got new Datsun door clips. Can't remember from who.....probably MSA.

Willwoods require a little grinding on the front control arms for clearance. They have thick rotors also.

Greg......We went to Summit Point the weekend before last. The Z's finished 1st ,2nd and 3rd. There were only 3 racing! Are you going to ZCON? Guy

Brian......I love the color......forget flat black......keep it pea green! Guy

Sorry Bruce.......I"ve only received the door seals, but they are awesome! I always look for the best quality and fit.......price is secondary. The Vintage Rubber is worth the extra money if they are more expensive. Guy

www.vintagerubber.com

Over the years, some have been pop riveted. If so, just drill them out. When going back together, order the plastic rivets from MSA and reinstall with those.

The Tidewater Z Car Club is having their annual Z Odyssey Show on Saturday May 14th at Pomoco Nissan;1134 Mercury Blvd; Hampton, Virginia. This is always an outstanding show with a lot of early cars as well as an array of later cars throughout the models. Registration is 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon. Contact Todd Wagner at 757-851-8098 or email zfixers@cox.net for info..... $25.00 in advance or $30.00 at the gate.....rain or shine.

Steve....I'm running the P79 shaved .080 and towers shimmed .080 on 2 of my Z's with the F54 block. I'm also running SU's with the early intakes. No problem on the fuel injection notches. I'm also running the early stock exhaust manifold and gasket.......again....no problem. We took a household dremel and opened up the exhaust manifold a little to match the ports. We run the Isky Stage III cams in both engines. They run awesome with no detonation problem what-so-ever! Here's a thread that may help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34448

Mark the wires, unplug them, then drive off the locking mechanism (counterclockwise). Pull out the sending unit and replace the "o" ring. Reverse the procedure to replace. You can probably get the" o" ring at your dealer, if not,you can get them from MSA or BD. 20 minute job.

Charlie Osborne at Zeddfinders had them at one time. 613-389-1395 .....Datsunzparts.com

Chris......You really need to kill that frickin bug!!!

Check all of your lash pads.....they're between the tip of the rocker and the valve. They can pop out sometimes.

That car absolutely takes your breath away. It's the kind of Z that could change the streak of low Z prices at Barrett Jackson or any other high scale auction. Best of luck to you Jared.......you've built a true masterpiece!!!

Plan to have one section with 12 foot ceilings for your new BendPack Lift. The best $4,000.00 investment (installed) you'll ever make! It'll also let you park another car underneath.

Too loose is better than too tight. FastWoman is dead on......Z engines with solid rocker to lobe contact ain't going to be velvety quiet. unless your noise is excessive, don't narrow your clearance too much.

Sorry....ST is special tool.......there's a picture in the Service Manual(FSM) that shows one. By the way, your chances of prying out those side seals without removing the bearing cap are about the same chances of me winning Indy this year with my Z. Also, I'll bet you can't find anyone on this forum that has ever replaced the side seals while in the car. Finally, I'll also bet that side seals are not your problem......there is absolutely nothing to wear out or deteriorate with a side seal. They just don't go bad......Ever. All IMO.

Without a ST to remove the rear main bearing cap, it would be a bitch. The rear main cap is a super tight press fit.

Remember.....there are two adjustment nuts on the distributor to adjust timing. You may be able to get more advance by loosening the second adjustment nut. Also, if you don't trust your damper, you can pull the number 1 plug , disconnect the coil wire and turn the engine over by pushing in 4th gear until the number one piston is rising on the compression stroke. Stick a long screwdriver in the number 1 spark plug hole until it contacts the top of the piston and bring the piston to top center. Then check your timing marker to your damper.

Acador.....Did you use Isky valve springs and retainers to handle the lift of the new cam? Dave Rebello sells outter valve springs that you use with stock inner springs and stock retainers that will work with up to .500 lift and .240 lash pads.Did someone set up the rocker geometry with the thicker required lash pads? In other words,tell us in detail what exactly was done to the head. I don't think that maximum power at 5200 is abnormal for an L28 with longer stroke. Just shift at 6,000 rpm and go for the next gear!

Sign me up for 4 pair.

I particularly like Sweet West Texas Light crude!

Isky Cams recommends. 1) BradPenn. Penn- grade 2) Pennzoil "GTP" racing oil 3) Valvoline VR1 racing oil In that order. All contain generous amounts of zinc/phosphorous.They strongly recommend not using synthetics during break in. If you must use synthetic, they recommend 1) Amzoil (red) racing oil or 2) Joe Gibbs Performance Racing Oil. They have some experience in this regard. Pay your money and take your chances......everyone has their own opinions, and they probably think they are right.