Diseazd

Can anyone confirm what the proper vacuum reading should be on a carbureted L28 at idle? Thanks Guy

Why don't you just call ZCARSOURCE or ZBARN and get the right pedal.......then just bolt it in and hook it up to your new master cylinder.

Update........I found them at Ace Hardware........4-40 x 3/4.........E, you were close. Thanks for everyone's input. By the way.....they were 79 cents for 5 stainless machine screws. Guy

Thanks everyone.......I'll report back when I find some! Guy

Thanks E........I'll check that out. Guy

I'm replacing the lens covers on the front large blinker lights of my 71 Z. Several of the screws have been broken trying to get them out. Anyone know where I might pick up a dozen or so of these screws? Thanks for your help. Guy

Come clean Brian. You really don't own a Z.......do you?

And remember.....never add fresh water to a overheated engine, the drastic change in cooling will really warp an engine, and when you add water to a warm engine, start it before adding water or coolant. I warped the valves on a 52 Jeep adding cold water to a hot engine and it was running when I added it!

Keith.....How many pair are needed to get the price down to $100.00 a pair? I'll take one pair at $150.00 if that helps get the ball rolling. Anyone else? If the next batch is cheaper, I'll take more. Guy

I can't wait till he buffs it out!!

Rich......You have to be patient with Chuck, but he's worth the wait. I can"t wait either........wish you were on the East Coast. Your work is awesome.......I believe we think a lot alike! We'll post 'em as soon as we can. Guy

Chuck finally started painting today! These were taken with a cell phone......will get Brandon to update with a real camera soon!

I recently got new Datsun door clips. Can't remember from who.....probably MSA.

Willwoods require a little grinding on the front control arms for clearance. They have thick rotors also.

Greg......We went to Summit Point the weekend before last. The Z's finished 1st ,2nd and 3rd. There were only 3 racing! Are you going to ZCON? Guy

Brian......I love the color......forget flat black......keep it pea green! Guy

Sorry Bruce.......I"ve only received the door seals, but they are awesome! I always look for the best quality and fit.......price is secondary. The Vintage Rubber is worth the extra money if they are more expensive. Guy

www.vintagerubber.com

Over the years, some have been pop riveted. If so, just drill them out. When going back together, order the plastic rivets from MSA and reinstall with those.

The Tidewater Z Car Club is having their annual Z Odyssey Show on Saturday May 14th at Pomoco Nissan;1134 Mercury Blvd; Hampton, Virginia. This is always an outstanding show with a lot of early cars as well as an array of later cars throughout the models. Registration is 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon. Contact Todd Wagner at 757-851-8098 or email zfixers@cox.net for info..... $25.00 in advance or $30.00 at the gate.....rain or shine.

Steve....I'm running the P79 shaved .080 and towers shimmed .080 on 2 of my Z's with the F54 block. I'm also running SU's with the early intakes. No problem on the fuel injection notches. I'm also running the early stock exhaust manifold and gasket.......again....no problem. We took a household dremel and opened up the exhaust manifold a little to match the ports. We run the Isky Stage III cams in both engines. They run awesome with no detonation problem what-so-ever! Here's a thread that may help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34448

Mark the wires, unplug them, then drive off the locking mechanism (counterclockwise). Pull out the sending unit and replace the "o" ring. Reverse the procedure to replace. You can probably get the" o" ring at your dealer, if not,you can get them from MSA or BD. 20 minute job.

Charlie Osborne at Zeddfinders had them at one time. 613-389-1395 .....Datsunzparts.com

Chris......You really need to kill that frickin bug!!!

Check all of your lash pads.....they're between the tip of the rocker and the valve. They can pop out sometimes.