Diseazd

Vintagerubber.com This company makes great door weatherstripping........easy to install....great fit.

No Jeff....you're not alone....I operate in the dark often.....thanks for clearing this up. I assume that all ZX's use the rear sump pan.....for clearance issues. I've never owned one, so don't know anything about their crossmembers. Guy

Crikies mate.....just checked.....all 3 F54's have the oil pans as Jeff described. I didn't even pick that up. Not sure now, if the L24 pan will fit with the oil pick up from the F54 or not. There is no clearance issues whatsoever in the 240Z's, and I don't know why there would be any on the S130's either. When my block comes home from the machine shop, I'll try a 240Z pan with the F54 pick up......see if they inter change.

Thanks Leon....that would make sense....was it a turbo in it's former life Jeff?

Steve.....I asked the same question. I've built 3 F54 blocked ZX motors to date. The oil pick up and oil pans have all been interchangeable between the 240Z engines and F54 engines. It was news to me that the oil pick up and oil pan on Jeff's engine was different between his 75 L28 and the 82 F54 ZX motor. Anyone else ever run into this?

Looks good Jeff.....no erosion of water passages. Something about a fresh machined engine.....gives me goosebumps!

Remove the starter and put a flathead screwdriver in a flywheel gear till it locks against the tranny housing. Torque the crank bolt to spec. This obviously takes two people.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/25643-total-restoration-project-71-a-2.html Check page 2 to see what can be done. My frame shop replaced the whole front driver side clip on the 71. You do need a competent frame shop to do it so everything lines up, but it can be done. Now is it worth it? That's why it's so important to pay up for a good chassis.

End of the first week....Chuck is starting at the driver side corner, working forward. I'll post pics at the end of each week.

OZ.....Good to hear from you again Mate. Yes, this engine is exactly what you and I discussed several years back ........we thought it would be fun, and we were right. It doesn't feel like it's got quite the low end torque as the longer stroke L28 crank, but the smoothness and quickness to 7000 are awesome! I highly recommend it......the modern head (shaved P79) with the short stroke L24 crank and rods are a great combination. I liked it so much, I'm doing it again. Hope you and the family are good.....keep dodging those Wallabies! Guy BTW.....Yes I love motors......can't have too many motors....I've got nine extras.

Low compression (leaking valves) were my first choice.....his characteristics are exactly what a car with a couple bent valves or too tightly adjusted valves exhibit. He said the only thing he did was adjust the valves.....well maybe that did it. Also, he did a compression check.....do it again....you've tried everything else. In all the higher compression ratio engines I've built, I've never gotten a reading of over 185 lbs., he got 215....on a stock engine.....wow...maybe a bad gauge? Regardless, I'd run another compression check. IMO

Nice job Bill......can't wait to see it! Please update on how Todd's shifter works.

They don't have any ridge at all.....I'm boring .040 over anyway. I never know who owned these motors, so it's fun to crack 'em open, clean 'em up and put 'em back together like new. I just wish I could do the same to myself.

Tore down the dirty old motor.....It's fun to take something so ugly and make it pretty again!

Oh my God.....A Zedytwo!

Zedy.....If you need any build help, you've got my phone number.....go to Harbor Freight and buy yourself an engine stand and an engine hoist. You of all people should build that engine yourself (like all your stuff, it would be beautiful). It ain't rocket science.......we can can walk you through it.....it's a blast!

Steve.....L28'S and L24's are the same dimensions everywhere except cylinder bores.......

Your local Nissan dealer has them....

Thanks EuroDat......good stuff. JR.......I haven't balanced any of my motors to date....I am going to balance the bottom end on this one. I've heard from more than one source that the Z engines came pretty much balanced from the factory. Don't know if it'll be noticeable, but will be interested to find out.....if I can even tell. I would think that a race car that lives at high rpm would certainly need balancing ......not sure about a street car.

Not really.....I just enjoy working with different stock mods and combos.......adding some ponies makes these cars much more fun to drive. I was in Eiji's shop Sunday.......really, really cool stuff.....he's got tons of replated and restored motor parts......he is a true craftsman and a really good friend. He loves the L series motors! BTW....There are two sets on eBay as we speak.

Yes, but I haven't got them yet....they're coming in a separate box. I'll let you know what they look like when I get them. I just like Perfect Circle, Total Seal or Nissan rings. The oil rings and spreaders are excellent on all 3.

"My ITM pistons were great, but I should have thrown the rings away." Quote I'm using the Nissan rings with my set.......they're still available.

Zedy....Thanks so much for your kind words.....I just love to do these cars the right way.....they're not making any more of 'em. I always buy 16 inch Panasport wheels....my favorite tire size is 205 55 16....nice look, no rubbing.....the orange car wears that size. The 225 50 16's are the best looking (the green car), but there is some rub issues. Spruell Racing in Atlanta has the best deal on Panasports....$150.00 cheaper than anyone else. Guy

Spruell Racing in Atlanta can probably get 'em also Jonathan.....they're in Atlanta......great folks to work with ......I buy my Panasports there....$150.00 cheaper than anywhere else. The ITM's are nice....aren't they Jeff?

The Nissan dealership in Roanoke. You can usually find the ITM ad on eBay though.