Diseazd

Google; Beverly Hills Car Covers......a variety of custom car covers.

Pure art!

Sorry, don't remember the spring rate.....I told him I wanted the softest available for the coil overs. I ran 205 50 16's on one of my Z's for a while.....they were a lot less heavy steering than the 225 50 16's, but were 1 inch shorter than stock....didn't fill the wheel wells. I really think the 205 55 16's are perfect.....that's what I run on all but the green car.....I'll switch that car to the 205 55 16's as soon as I wear its tires out. IMO

Yes, I went with the softest springs available from Ground Control. I wouldn't want to drive the heavy springs on the streets.I still have to dial in 2 1/2 degrees of negative camber to get the 225 50 16's under the fenders......so many choices.....tough to know what works and what doesn't on the street. I personally like the Eibach spring/Tokico combo almost as much as the coil overs. You've got the know how and a friend that knows what they're doing in setting them up.......I had a friend that knew what to do too. However for someone who doesn't know what to do and have the tools to install the camber plates and struts, they can be in for a major headache. Good Luck with whatever you choose.

. Richard......Think hard before you spring for the coil overs and camber plates.....my 4 cars with Eibachs and Tokico's drive and handle almost as good if not as good as the GC's. If you're going racing, it might be worth the money and hassle, but I don't think I'd do it again. The rear sway bar made a huge difference at a low cost. The cars below run Tokico's and Eibach's as well as 205/55/16's. Stance competes with the green car IMO.

My drag racing buddies in Atlanta used to tell me to drive my first build once around 285 (68 miles), then drive it like you want it to run!

If Ztherapy did your carbs, you can take it to the bank that it ain't the float levels.

Spark plug gap should be .035 inches not .35mm

Check your nozzles underneath.......push 'em up by hand. Many times when I get an erratic idle, it's because the nozzle underneath the carb doesn't return after choking the carbs. If they are hanging up, you can hear them snap back up when you push em up. This also causes a rich mixture.

I couldn't agree more......I was very, very happy with their door seals. Mine arrived quickly.......very happy with Vintage Rubber.....call 'em on the phone

A little secret to installing rear side seals. Don't install them till the rear bearing cap is one inch from bottoming out. Then, install the side seals......push them all the way down till they bottom out, then torque the rear cap down.....it'll really pull the side seals all the way down so there is none sticking up to interfere with the oil pan installation.

IMO.....Wait for a 240Z.

I agree with rossiz.....

Wow.....Hubcaps sold for $1,135.00! Congrats Gary.

Get an eight inch drill extension and you don't have to take anything apart......a two hour job at most. The second time around, I think I could do it in one hour.....but I've got a lift! You can see the instructions on their site. It makes a noticable difference in body roll......great for hard driveway turns.

The new owner is going to do a total restoration including a new engine build. The basic car is rust free and straight.....a good platform to make it a perfect car........he's been looking for lime green. One small crack in the dash, otherwise a nice car to restore.

Now add one of these easy to install rear sway bars from Futofab and you'll have the whole package!

Momma's boy!

Sounds like you answered your own question.......have at it!

Way too much trouble! You'd have to remove the distributor, the sway bar, the oil pump, the radiator, the distributor shaft, the crank damper, oil pan, alternator, get a new front seal and gaskets, and hope you don't screw up the front of the head gasket in the meantime........does that silver paint look better now? ::

You don't understand Chickenman. I work in flip flops.....Stephen in white socks. Brains aren't always a Z owner's "Long Suit"!

Yes.....The thick cotton padding will save your big toe in case you drop the diff on it!!! Gotta get some myself ......the flip flops aren't much help!

Early Z's have an external voltage regulator.......280's have an internal voltage regulator. You can have a good alternator and a bad voltage regulator. A bad battery wouldn't stress an alternator, it would take 14 volts and not charge.......no stress on the alternator.

I think he's probably dead on. The voltage regulator is shot and it's stressing the alternator. Too much drag will burn the bearings up. Mine did the same thing........same squeal, burned up the belt. The alternator got so hot I thought it was going to catch on fire.

I had the same problem with a new alternator once. It would peg the amp meter all the way to the right. I installed a new alternator and voltage regulator. Problem solved.......not sure which did the fix. Steve J could probably explain why it pegged at max amps. It had that same burnt rubber residue and smell and squeal. If I recall, there was a fried wire in the voltage regulator. If you have a voltage regulator, take the cover off and check it out. I'm not sure if the alternator caused the voltage regulator to fail or vice versa.