Diseazd

........therefore the cap to the left of the rear cap in picture 3 is too wide. Always number your bearing caps so they go back from where they came off.

IMO you can install the rear seal either way. Grease the lips of the seal before installing. When you install it on the crank journal , rotate the seal clockwise as you are installing on the crank journal.....position the seal where you want it to sit (slightly off any previous wear grove), then torque down bearing caps. I also install sometimes after the crank is in and torqued. Grease the seal lips and rotate clockwise on rear crank journal until snug and square. I then tap it in squarely with a flat edge (block of wood) evenly until seated flush. BTW, I see you are using Hastings piston rings....IMO, they are the worst (poor oil rings). I recommend Nissan OEM or Total Seal. Looks like a nice clean install....great pictures! Note: Looks like you've got the wrong (narrow bearing) bearing in the rear cap.

Congrats ......beautiful cars! Any pics? Guy

.........and it now sports number 46 again. Another racer wouldn't give up number 46 at Road America last year.

Made the trip to LNA Enterprises today.....Sam's getting the number 46 car ready for VIR this October.

Steve Bonk told me that John is running that car at VIR this Fall. You can bet I'm looking forward to seeing him run with some practice time under his belt!

Cliff.....You are "A Legend in Your Own Mind"!

I will too Lumens. IMO he was crazy not to take $58,400.00. The car needs a whole lot of work.....expensive work....very expensive work!

Will put on a fantastic ZCON.......indoors and air conditioned. I've got number 47 from that show.

If the head has been converted to L28 valves, my guess is that the seats are already steel.

Good job Julio.....sounds like a plan. I tried ME also (Georgia Tech).....Fluid Mech and Thermodynamics changed my mind. I graduated in Industrial Management.....more time for working on my "Selling Skills"

Eiji builds his own engines....he's a one man show. He pays attention to every detail (almost painfully so). He meticulously checks and rechecks every clearance and tolerance. If the engine self destructed, I would have to believe that something wasn't adjusted right.....maybe too much advance, something that caused detonation. It's incredible what happened to those Pistons....all broken exactly the same....almost interchangeable. I don't have a clue, but he's coming over next Saturday. I'll ask him if he has any clues.......quite the mystery.

http://poecronk.com/property/z-doctor-building/

http://www.roanoke.com/obituaries/woodford-david-wordenton/article_d3ab1a0e-a31b-564a-b39b-56616b1a16d4.html?mode=jqm

So sad to announce the passing of my long time friend Z Doc. Dave was an incredible person with a complete knowledge of the Datsun L series engines. He is the founder of the P90/P79 shaved and shimmed head. He did five for me alone......I will miss him immensely. Drive on Doc........you will be missed more than you know!

Really nice work Zed Head.......you should be a detective! Those aren't ITM pistons and therefore is a mystery block from a mystery builder. I wonder what brand of pistons California Datsun uses?

.......on second examination, mine don't have the markings you are showing in your pics.

The casting looks like ITM's. Here is a couple pics of an ITM flat top before it went in one of my F54 blocks. Amazing.....I've never seen anything like those broken skirts. Good luck in finding the cause.

It looks like you have the Series 2 set up and Motorman7 has the Series 1. In that case, you would install the mount the reverse of his (whichever way it moves the diff rearward). Your mustache bar is installed correctly.

If your set up is a Series 2, you need to install the diff mount so it moves the diff rearward.

The position of your diff mount and mustache bar depends on whether your Z is a Series 1 or Series 2. The Series 1 (early cars) had a shorter driveshaft and a more angular position of the half shafts. To remedy this, you could flip the tranny mount 180 degrees and use a series 2 mustache bar (curved versus flat). This moved the diff back, therefore the half shaft problem resolved. You also had to add the later rear hangars (curved to accept moving the diff rearward) and the longer driveshaft. To figure out which is which, figure out what you're running.

I built a 510 motor on my kitchen floor years ago. Same system.....plastic tarp....3 layers of cardboard and muscle. Nice!

Wow......So sorry to hear the tragic news about John.....we will miss you John.

Sounds like a plan.....alcohol makes everything better Cliff.....think I'll start myself!

Finished my new parts shed......the one on the right. She'll hold 8 engines, 6 trannies and a whole lot of fenders and other parts. Wanted to get all that stuff out of the garages