Diseazd

I don't drink often, but when I do drink, I drink often!!!

Does anyone else think that those hone cuts look awfully big? I think if it were me, I'd have another machine shop do another hone cut.....wouldn't cost much....good insurance. BTW, I think you can still get Nissan 73 Pistons at your local dealer. The flat top without reliefs are NLA........and I also believe if I remember correctly, ITM pistons come fly cut for the L24 motors. SB.....can you look and see if the Pistons that came out are ITM or Nissan? And Siteunseen....can you take a pic of the chambers in that E88? Just curious. Love your dog....looks as crazy as my pooch

Awesome....steel (L28) seats, valves and a nice Stage III cam and you'll be all set! BTW, when you install a higher lift cam in the L24 head, you'll need to install low profile valve seals to keep the bottom of the valve spring retainers from beating against a stock (taller) valve seal. Your block has already been over bored .75 mm (.030 inches), so you should be all set there.

If you have the low compression E88 head, I'd dump it for an early E88 or E31 head. The 73 heads are low performance. If your car is a 72 with the original motor, you should be running an early (good) E88 head. Get steel seats (L28) installed and L28 valves and a higher lift cam and you'll get a nice boost in performance

Yes.....the 1973 low compression 240Z's came with fly cut Pistons......and yes you can go up to .500 lift (Isky Stage III is .490 lift) as long as the L24 block is over bored .030 inches or more.

Wow Rich.....It just doesn't get much better than that! Congrats on an absolutely beautiful car!

Matthew......My L28's with the shaved P79 heads and Isky Stage III cams build about 170 h.p. To the wheels (200 to the flywheel), with SU carbs. They pull hard through all rpm ranges.

I couldn't agree more......Isky Stage III (.490 lift) is no problem for the street......or with SU's. You'll love it! You do need a performance spring so they don't stack, but Rebella sells an outer spring that can be used with your stock inner spring and retainers for about $100.00. You'll need to geometry the rockers with thicker lash pads regardless of a .460 or .490 used.

We appreciate your low rates for "baby sitting"! You do a terrific job.........."Keep up the Fair Work"!!!!

Mike.....You should have used the function on the thread you just nixed!

A good friend of mine bought the car. He doesn't know how much it's worth either. However, with so few original cars left with all the parts and docs, in restored condition, it should bring a hefty price.

Probably because you can get into some "serious dung" with that much power in a little car like that!

I'm really enjoying this thread.....Great work Sweaty....I'm a big fan!

Don't really care what his personality is......he made a great contribution to the Z community......his R/T mount works great! I'm grateful.

Just my opinion Captain.....why wouldn't you install the R/T mount and never have to do the job again? The bump stop from above keeps the rubber from separating on the diff mount below.

I'm with Cliff.....get rid of the brass....go to steel. While you're at it, get rid of that late E88 and get a better head....you have a low emission, low compression head

We're with you on this one Zup........great hospital, all the best Docs. Our prayers and thoughts are with you. Guy

Me too Brian.....

Yes, that's why you're having a problem. The early Z's had a different mounting point for the arrestor belt mount which put the bump stop bolt in an interference point with the e brake mechanics when you install the RT mount / TV mount. Yours is a transition Z (half Series 1 and half Series II). Try the mods mentioned above.....it'll solve your problem.

Yeah Zed probably did......if you look close, you'll see that I also cut a notch out of the forward support bracket. If Tomcat's mount has that bracket hanging down like mine, he'll have to notch it for driveshaft clearance (easy to do). Just wondering now.....if you trimmed a notch in the support bracket wide enough to hang the bump stop off of the back of the bracket, maybe you could drill a hole on the back of the bracket as it stands to hang the bump stop off the back slightly......that might work without flipping it 180 degrees. Just a thought. BTW.....It's a great system.....you'll love it!

BTW, mine had a support bracket that I dremeled off so the drive shaft cleared, but it doesn't look like yours has that buttress. If you expand the pic and look close, you'll see that the part of thebump stop is hanging off the mount. Works perfect. Good luck!

Here's a couple shots (from the rear). If you look close, you can see the step (brake line step) is now on the left, but the bump stop (still centered over the diff) is back behind the bow of the e brake ....even when pulled. Works perfect, and as I said, no contact with brake lines even though the step is on the wrong side.

Is your Z an early Series 1 or transition Z? I had the same problem with my 70 Z. Seems the attachment points on the later model cars are farther back. My solution was I rotated the mount 180 degrees. Can't remember whether I had to drill another hole for the bump stop or not (don't think I did)..The notch for the brake lines will be on the wrong side, but there was no contact with the lines anyway. My Series 2 cars worked fine.....just the early cars.

........not a drop!

Just replaced the seal and O ring in the speedo gear. No leak so far. BTW.....that little inside seal has a direction to be installed. If you look closely, the lips of the inner seal need to be facing into the transmission.....just like any other seal.