zKars

Turn signal light issues, especially those that exist while the hazards work just fine, are often the fault of the hazard switch. Remove it and clean its internal contacts and check for solder problems where the wires attach. Also make sure the battery is fully charged or the car is running, or attach a charger to the battery while you do testing. Low voltage often causes older flasher units to not want to do their job well or at all making diagnosis of related problems difficult.

The two hole pump is for L16/18/20. Four banger. Great donor for internal parts. I once bought a Toyota fuel pump that was also an organ donor. I suspect that design was used on many Japanese cars in the day

It’s the black goo that that leaks out and spoils the weld when you’re installing over fender flairs and have cut out the wheel well lip, then weld the two layers back together, or try to at least. It’s a caulking, not a bonding agent. Maybe some fear of water getting in the air vent holes and getting down in that area.

Rostra seems to have the only commercial consumer cruise control system. Pic below of what I got recently from Amazon. Just need a speed digital signal. There is a couple of options, you can splice a “thing” (I’ll find a link eventually) into your speedo cable, or if you have a GPS speedo, then do away with the cable all together and use this. https://protunerz.com/collections/sensors/products/mechanical-to-electrical-vss-metric-with-connector Now the hot tip is as Duffy says, go Drive by Wire and let your aftermarket ECU handle the cruise control duties. And idle control, etc. Its just a big step. There are actuators for triple carbs or throttle bodies too. See what efihardware in Australia has. Cool stuff https://www.efihardware.com/products/c598/dbw-components I have seen a few folks working on nice solutions with 350Z throttle bodies and pedals, what are you doing Duffy?

Steve Nixon. https://www.240zrubberparts.com/category/all-products

So, the repair is done. Made a filler spacer ring sleeve thingy, 50.1mm OD, 48 mm ID. 12.4mm high. Used convenient and most importantly cheap 2” (50.8mm) OD exhaust pipe as source material. Plenty of wall thickness. It’s about 46mm ID. Had that laying around. Bought the SKF equivalent seal to the Timkin quoted above. Warmed up the alloy housing a bit with the MAP torch. Tapped the sleeve home. Tad high, buzzed it flat to the housing. Sealant used (Right Stuff) to seal the area where the missing alloy sits next to the new sleeve. Also placed between the sleeve alloy housing.

yup.... have lathe will (not) travel.....

Very helpful thank you Zedhead. There are a couple that are 48 and 49 mm OD. Timken 714436 specs below. 48mm housing bore, 35mm shaft, 8mm thick. Perfect. Just have to make a 50.05 OD/48 ID ring to schlipp in there. I had this thought during the night (when my brain seems to do the best thinking) that i had previously tried a heat repair on another one of these and melted the surprisingly soft guide bushing just inside the housing. I think i shall not try that approach again.. So that leaves me some sort of sleeve repair and a smaller seal I think. Other than filling in that void with some other material like epoxy or UV cure Resin, and maybe an external band clamp aka hose clamp to retain it all.

Here is one idea I started with tonight. Make a fitted backing plate of something my low temp alloy rod or TIG bead won’t stick to, then merrily go weld beads to build up the missing piece. Brass may not be the right material, sheel steel is likely better, but you get the idea. While doing this I dreamed up the liner with smaller seal idea above.

All interesting ideas. Perhaps if I can find a slightly smaller OD seal, I can just make a thin liner pipe to go inside the current ID (50mm) that brings it down to the size of said smaller OD seal. Kind of an inside out Speedy Sleeve! The stock seal fits our 35mm driveshaft sleeve and a 50mm tail housing ID. Like a Timken 710324. So maybe a make a 48 mm ID Start with a 2” OD aluminum pipe with 1/8 wall and turn the outside to 50.05m and the inside to 48 or whatever seal I find. ? Maybe Anyone know how to search a seal catalogue by OD/ID?

I can strip them and let them sit on a salt water soaked rag for a couple of weeks if you want..... But that will be extra

While i do have a TIG welder and a mill, I “could” build up that area then mill that back to a nice circle on the ID. Trouble with TIG welding I find, is that unless you practice alot, (which I don’t) that the chances of making this worse before it gets better are pretty high. I was thinking take a piece of 1/8 aluminum plate, bending it in a nice matching curve, trim to fit that missing area, and then solder/braze it in place from the outside. I some of these fancy torch melt low temp aluminum brazing rods that I have used in the past. Then once it all setup, mill the ID to right size if its not super close to start with, then add a bit of goo on the new seal OD to fill in any imperfections and call it a day! What you-all think?

I ground out the edges of the broken area to freshen them for welding or glueing or something. The P0 had put a large blob of RTV or similar over that area, no idea if it leaked there or not. This trans was pulled from a 78 in a junk yard 15+ years ago. Internally it’s a thing of beauty. Not going to do much with it, but I have to do SOMETHING with this tail shaft. You can see in the first picture with the seal back in place, that just gooping it up with RTV/Right-Stuff “might work. There is enough of the circumference gone though that the seal might be pushed out-of-round enough to allow a leak.

I have an early 5 speed here (77-79 “B” type 5 speed) that I’m rebuilding that has a busted out tail shaft casting where the output driveshaft seal goes. Was apparently dropped at some point in it’s life, the dust shield is clearly bent and re-shaped by a PO. I’mm looking for brilliant and inventive ways to fix this (I mean cheap…..)

All L series blocks; EVERY Female M10 thread in the block is 1.5 pitch. That includes the transmission case as well. Starter bolts, clutch slave. The only “sort of” exception is the stud that mounts the alternator bracket, its 1.5 in the block, but the sticky-outty part is 1.25. All OTHER M10 threads (M and F) on the rest of the car are 1.25 pitch. Suspension and trans mount being most of them. oh and as for your needed bolts…..

Seatbeltplanet is my goto. https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/i-30499407-1970-1973-datsun-240z-driver-passenger-seat-belt-kit.html?q= I get them to add a 9” drop strap from the shoulder belt hanging point to bring it down closer to your shoulder. Quite a challenge on an early car with the tool storage bin covers thingys behind the seats. Modifications required to properly mount the retractor flat against the luggage riser. I use a drain hole to bolt an angle bracket down. Requires you to build a bit of a crush tube in the frame rail so you tighten that long bolt down…..

The vast majority of the doors I’ve worked on do not have the backing washers on the rollers anymore, but work just fine after some lube and adjustment. As long as the rollers roll smoothly and the tracks they run in are clean and not collapsed or bent (seen some very strange bent and/or collapsed front guide tracks……) Yes and lots of old grease in the form of congealed wax. I use anti-seize as the new grease. Doors are going to get dust in them and that will get trapped in the grease, but…… Love the solution of the slippery and slip-over-ly-ness of the composite washers! The rattling in doors when being closed surely would be reduced with these in place.

Doors. yuck. After doing a BUNCH over the years I find working on them thera-puke-d*** now. CG has all the right techniques for glass removal, but you don’t “have” to remove the SS frame if you don’t want to. Do it anyway to investigate the run channel felt stuff and replace as needed. most trouble I have is putting the glass back in. Getting the regulator in the right amount of up/down-ness to get started, and remember “again” which wheel to get back in it’s matching guide track first, second etc. But to start, there are two overwhelmingly common reasons for the windows to not be rolling up and down nice. The front nylon bar on the front of the glass frame that rides in the front vertical guide channel is likely dry as a bone. Or broken……. Add some lube and see if that helps. Quick fix. Second is the regulator arms have become bent from crazy rolling pressure from owners reefing on it to overcome the friction. Once they are bent they loose the right geometry. All the arms should be FLAT and PARALLEL to each other, other than the jog at the pivot. Good luck!

Nothing $620 USD won't fix..... or a mere $311 from Partsouq. I have bought lots of goodies from these guys. Cheapest Nissan parts out there. Ship fast and very reasonable. 280zx is about as early as you can go with them though.

Looks good to me! Except the part about 1-2 months “free” shipping….

1/4" brass tubing. 5 or 6 inches long. Only flared on one end to help get the 3/16 nylon rope I use into the tube if its a bit frayed. I stuff the non flared end into the groove and drag it along feeding the rope into the tube to deposit it in the groove. Super slick. Gone in 60 seconds!

Right on

Hmmm.. Neve thought of that. I’m not sure you can access the three trim ring screws from the front. There are two little gaps where you can reach the aiming screws. I’m going out for a look! Ok, took a look. There isn’t any way to get at the three screws from the front.

Green white to ballast, front, long BW to ballast (rear), and short BW to coil + If you don’t have a ballast, connect the long BW and the GW together. I’mm doing the same thing to this car today. I’ll let you know if I run into issues

Put all the wires back where you had them on the coil and ballast resistor, (except the black one, that went to the points) then put the new Red/black from the pertronix in place. That way + current to the coil goes through the tach again. Once you get that working, you can try removing the ballast resistor by connecting its two leads together, IF the coil is 1.5 or 2 ohms on its own. Start there. Just realized you might not know where the three loose wires were originally. Picture coming