zKars

The brake master! Of course, but not the clutch master. Different bolt pattern on the firewall. And the inspection light! Of course! Excellent IdahoKidd. The rad will work as well, but may hang a bit low for comfort on 240z.

This has been discussed at length. A search will bring you many suggestions. I have found heat to be the secret, its just how much you need, and where, and a propane torch may not be enough. Consentrate on the drum around the hub, rather than the hub itself. It seems the corrosion between the face of the hub and the back of the drum is the killer, not so much there circle where the hub sticks out. One session with a puller resulted in the drum coming off, but in pieces.... Do not give up! You're better than some lousy rust! Jim

Really they only have compatible drive lines (engine, trans, diff). SOME brake parts have been "grafted" on. Yes 280zx NA dizzy is a common and popular upgrade to all S30 engines. All ZX wheels bolt on to S30 hubs. They share no body, glass, interior, lights etc. Ok, the 7" round headlight bulbs fit, that's about it. Anyone else think of something you can use directly as a bolt-on that works immediately other than the shift knob? Jim

Mr.Tamura did so hard on finalizing S30's body surface, he told me he still has feelings in his hand every surface of her(S30),in his word,he had spent very hot and hard time with her every day and night. Every time he touched her, she told him that places where she wanted to be more beautiful! Mr.Tamura said it is like an old craftsman of Buddha statue,he did not creat it, Buddha itself... Does anything more need to be said?

Looks like you have to get a whole new pulley with bearing. Tomorrow I will look at the one spare I have and let you know what condition it is in. Got something to trade? Jim

Davis: I have a couple of decent spares out here in Calgary if Nissan Canada comes up dry. Drop me a email or PM when you get a chance. Jim

I have done two vintage air installs. One in a 77 (friends), then mine in a 73. Total labor was 70 hours on the 77, and close to 60 on my 73. This does not include trips to the store for parts, or trip to the AC shop for hose make up and an eventual system charge at the end. Dash comes out, create mount for the underdash unit, create a mount for the compressor, fabricate and mount a nice place for the controls where the old heater controls were, wiring, air duct make up etc, etc, etc. Everything done right, looks and runs great. Time ads up real quick. My next one will take 10% less time, but that is about it. Everything is fab and fit, fab and fit. There are threads on here with others experiences, and somewhere I posted a document that describes the full details of the 77 install. I have the doc for the 73 too if you need it. It is not a small job. Let me know if I can help with anything. Jim

Dustin Here is a picture of the brackets and the dimensioned drawing. Now if the printing was only clear enough to read.... Jim

Dustin: I'll get some pics of the brackets up asap. Send me mail to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send them that way. The trip is a work in progress. Just know we are leaving the snow after Christmas. What Island are you on? Maybe it will help make up our minds! Jim

dustin: I have a set of front brackets for 70-72 240 bumpers. The expensive part is likely the shipping, but i'll package and send them slow postal. I'm in western Canada. Asking $40 for the two brackets and whatever shipping is. Give me a zip and I'll give you the estimate. Hey, wait until January and I'll deliver personally! Jim

When I did mine I was able to find a 5/8 bit with a step down shank that allowed it to fit in my 3/8 drill. Another great hole enlarging tool is called a Step Bit, like these: http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100146 Cheap ones can be found at Harbour freight and the like. They tend to be very aggressive so be careful not to go beyond the 5/8 step! Good luck. Jim

Terry: Its very likely just a loose clamp or a clamp too tight that bit through the hose. FIRST, Ventilate that shop! Open the doors and get a breeze going. Do not attempt to start the car again until the loose gas is GONE. One tiny spark and BOOM!!!! Z gone! Second do you have a fire extinquisher? GET ONE! Third, have someone else start the car for an quick second while you id where the leak is, then turn it right off. Ventilate, then troubleshoot that hose. BE SAFE! I know you know this. Save the Z and your house first. Jim

I think I have the drivers side rear shock tower/Wheel well vinyl piece from 280 that you need. Drop me an email or pm with your e-mail and I'll send you a picture to be sure. Jim

Depending on what head you have you may already have it. Take off the valve cover and look at the very front of the cam to see if you have the eccentric cup that drives the fuel pump. Also look if you have the block off plate where the fuel pump would go, or more precisely, if there is a hole for the pump. Later heads did not have it. Jim

The lock actuation levers that attach to the back of the lock cylinders are different in the 77-78 doors than in the earlier doors. Look on the back of the cylinder and see if you can interchange the arms. The early ones have a little clip that holds it on. Many locksmiths can re-work your original cylinders to repair them if they are simply worn. Good luck! Jim

Put me down for two please Arne. Looking for both 240-Z style Thanks for doing this. Jim

My guess is your battery is not tied down properly and it moves, shorting out the + post to ground on the hood or the area around the post.

I don't believe there is a hazard relay. Test the switch contacts directly with a continuity checker. When in Off position, Pin 4 connected to 5, and 6 to 7. All others not connected to each other. When in ON position Pins 1,2,3 connected to each other, and pins 8 and 9 connected to each other.

$183 to your door in seven days. Tempting, yes? They also sell Samuri Underwear! Better yet! the next kids game craze! The Poking Box! http://www.japantrendshop.com/tuttuki-bako-augmented-reality-game-p-429.html Wait! It gets better! Get one these for that "annoying" loud companion at home or at the office! http://www.japantrendshop.com/noiseless-usb-karaoke-mic-p-576.html I have to move to Japan.

The problems are resolved and Tom junior is on his way. There were many contributing factors. Day one it was low fuel pressure and leaks. Today it was ignition. Put the timing light on all the plug wires, #2 was not firing at all, #1 was intermittent!! Changed plugs, wires, better, but still lots of intermittent die, go again, die, etc etc etc.. idling it would sitting there fine, then die. Instantaneously. Turns out the distributor or ignitor/control box was not firing consistently. It had an optical crane trigger in the dizzy and after market igniter box. Tossed in a zx E12-80 distributor, kept the crane coil, and what a difference!! Night and day. That thing sounds and runs real strong now. No hint of a miss or flat spot anywhere. Glad to help, Tom senior. Tom J. is safely on his way. Thanks to all for contributing ideas. Jim

Tom: Come on back if you like, we aren't done yet. I knew it didn't sound right when you drove away. Give me a call when you get a chance. Cell is best. Don't feel right about leaving you like this. Jim

Tom: I can help! Really! Betting its a plugged fuel filter, stuff in the tank, plugged line. Pressure may be up there, but bet the flow isn't. That or the coil is failing. I have parts for all of this. Call me in the morning after 8:00 Send me an email to z240@shaw.ca or pm here, and I'll send you the phone number! Jim

I have the parts you need. I can give the 240 firewall bracket or the shorter J hook that fits in the hollow bracket you have. PM me and we get it on the way. Jim

I am fairly certain that all the L engines (mayby not 83 P90a hydraulic) have 0.010/0.012 inch cold and 0.008/0.010 inch hot valve lash specs. Checked the 82 AND 71 FSM You are likely just getting the mm and inches specs confused. Common mistake. Remember that setting the cold spec is just to get close, but after running it up to temperature, set them to the hot spec to get them right. Jim

If you mean the plastic panel that covers the tail light wiring inside the hatch, you have it about right. Or is it the metal panel(s) on the outside that surround the tail lights? I have a few of the interior variety. What year Z are we talking about? Jim