zKars

Lots of seats can "fit", but relatively few have the right shape to allow them to fit back far enough due to interference with either the wheel well, or whether the upright part of the new seat is above the raised area behind the seat, allowing it to go all the way back while the bum cushion is still in front of that area. Optimal mounting height is determined by whether you can build thin enough (and safe enough, see John's comments above) adapter bracketing between the existing floor rails and the new seats, or if you have to remove or modify the existing floor rails to allow you to mount the seat low enough for your comfort if you are in the 5'10" and up group. With a 72, at least you don't have the drivers side "hump" in the tunnel that 280's do either for cat or resonator clearance, which further limits which seats are narrow enough. There have lots of topics about this, do a bit of hunting and searching and you'll see what others have done and what seats are common upgrades. Jim

If it takes another opinion, I concur with what Mr Camo and palosfv3 are saying. Two cars, no doubt, and what is left is not safe or practical to restore. Unless you have some immense emotional attachment to this pile of steel and iron oxide, and complete confidence in the person repairing the rust and structural damage, I would never in a million years spend the time and money required to make this car safe again. Please please think carefully before continuing. Jim

I have used the pockets before, but not my fave. That front diff mount crossmember bolts to a rectangular frame tube that runs across the car back there to the outside edges of the car. It's just in front of the rear wheels and gives a good wide stance position for a jack stand and a very positive register point for the top of the jack stand. My favorite spot. There is a "T" where another frame rail runs rearward, up and over the axles, and its just outside of that "T" spot that I aim for. I've even thought of making a custom top to the jackstand that registers in the frame T location for the best possible anchoring. Chock the front wheels too and work on level ground. Toss your tires/rims under the car under the seats for "last chance" safety. You know the rules! (I HATE working under my car, just what I do to be max safe). Jim

I'm running my 3.1 stroker with triple 44's off of a stock mechanical pump and nothing else. I have yet to run out of fuel doing "anything". After an entire summer of trying to get an electric pump/regulator/return system to work well (noise levels, pressure regulation due to return restriction etc) I put the mechanical on one day as a stop gap while I was dreaming of "what the hell" do I have to do to get the electric system working reliably", and never looked back. That was two years ago.... Just make sure you have a new Nissan pump (reliability more than anything) and go have fun! Jim

When it dies, does it just die instantly like you turned off the key, or does it slowly die over a matter of 10-20 seconds? Case 1 is more electrical suggesting, case 2 is more fuel related. You mentioned slowly, just how slowly? I'de be putting a fuel pressure gauge on there (after fuel filter in engine bay, before fuel rail) and watching what happens at that magic moment before I go spending any more money on parts.... Jim

You have a jammed linkage. One or more of the pivot points is dry/rusty/broken and not able to move. I agree the motor is likely fine. You will have to take the wiper mechanism apart and clean and lubricate all of of the joints and rotating parts. It all comes apart (look for c-rings to pry off), just take careful notes and pictures of each joint so you remember how to re-assemble it. The lock problem is likely in the wiper arm pivots that stick out of the cowl by the windscreen. Good luck! Jim

My old link to them, I think, http://www.zxman.com is dead. Hope they aren't, but may be....

Relax. There is no coolant access there. You have no blockage. Study the sensor body, you will see no fluid sealing mechanism. It is just measuring the temp of the aluminum head to gauge engine temperature, which should be very similar to coolant temperatute. Clean the body and hole to ensure good thermal conduction, but most problems people have is with the electrical connection to the sensor being dirty and corroded causing false resistance values that throw off the ECCS resulting in an overly rich condition while warming up. Check the sensor resistance values at 20C and 80C using the FSM charts on page EF & EC-87 to check if its reading correctly, and clean the connector and pins thoroughly. Make the measurement at the ECCS connector to include the connection at the sensor to see if its making good contact. Jim

Simplify. The points do nothing but make and break a connection from the negative side of the coil to ground. Confirm this happens as the points open and close as you crank the engine. The + side of the coil is supplied with ~9-10 volts when the key is ON (via the drop provided by the ballast resistor below the coil) and +12v when cranking. Verify that this is the case. Get back to us Jim

Fuel leaks are never safe. Keep the car outside and not driven if you can until this is resolved. Jim

There is no such thing as too many Z's. Go get it Dave! Jim

Nice idea! Kinda like Twitter for the car restoration community. 140 words and 4 little pic per post per day (so you not on it all damn day kids!) Just a few areas of common concern on the wipers. They can be slow for three major reasons, in order of likely hood (debatable no doubt). 1) Dirty, worn and or un-lubricated arm linkage and pivots, 2) Reduced power supply to the motor due to bad connections, everything from the battery wires, fuses, switch contacts and connectors along the entire wiring harness, but start with the connection in the engine bay. 3) Worn out motor (brushes or bushings). When you get all of these items sorted out, and you'll find the wipers are more or less "ok" on all but the heaviest downpours. The honda motor upgrade is great. You'll may also find that a product like "Rainex" helps in the mean time! Keep up the great work Jim

I never thought of myself as a 'proper datsun petrolhead' but it captures the spirit perfectly! Welcome to Datsun heaven! Jim

And now that I realize you're THAT dave and you're just down the road in Strathmore, I'de be happy to show you my wiring any time. Z club meeting tonight at Brasso Nissan 7:00pm as usual. I won't have the Z there this month, its in paint jail for a couple of weeks yet but we can chat. Jim

It just involves another auxiliary fuse panel, something modern. Painless has a few options. Power supply comes from a new cable from the battery, via an ignition controlled relay. Pretty simple. Now where to mount it, well, passenger side kick panel or up behind the glove box is handy. Most important point here is, don't try to use any of the stock circuits. I have Vintage AC, power seats, stereo, head light relays, rad fan relays, horn relays, power locks, etc etc and all their fuses, all on a fresh modern fuse panel. Much better, ahhhhhh Jim

I likely have a good 280z glove box door with a decent hinge. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll dig it up tomorrow. Jim

97.23% chance they are M6 x 1.00. 15 mm length would be just fine. Not positive since I'm not in a spot where I can check, but the only other size that even remotely possible is M5 x 0.8. Can't imagine they are M8x1.25, but I've never had a Z in the shop that had a pan or had a chance to put one back on! The holes I've seen in the rad support and frame rails seem to me to be M6

Never seen a split bushing. The factory bushings I seen are one piece that are press-flared outward and don't start with a split shell. Must be some kind of aftermarket stock bushing replacement. In any event, just do what Terrapin did, grind out the inner flare and make it all smooth... You do need the shell or the ID is too big for the POLY bushing. Its all good.

The parts are not missing. The later 280's (77 78?) use a slightly different system to connect the cable to the read brakes. The cable comes without the ends you find on the 240 cables, and I pretty sure there is no part you could buy separately. You will have to use the ends from your old cable. Make a slit with a dremel cutoff wheel or hacksaw, then spread the bracket to allow the old cable end to be removed, then use these on the 280 cable. You may wish to get the slit welded again to prevent an un-intentional escape.... Jim

Language is important, yes? S30 70-78 Z S130 79-83 280ZX (sorry mgood) z31 84-89 300 ZX z32 90-96 300 ZX z33 350Z z34 370Z Others will chime in with other items. alloy wheels types and hubcaps come to mind. Jim

Mine arrived yesterday. I'm in the process of getting m Z painted now, and that lovely decal will be on a fresh windshield in about 4 weeks. Perfect final touch. Thanks for doing this. I know the time and effort it took was substantial. Jim

Torker: You're getting your millimeters and your inches mixed up! Read those specs again! For a guy from Kansas, 0.080 (Intake) and 0.010 (Exhaust) in INCHES cold! 0.010 (I) and 0.012 (E) in INCHES hot! FSM grab attached. Jim

You are just dealing with a bad case. Nothing that unusual. I had to weld a 4 foot bar to the gland nuts on one set of struts of mine to finally get the leverage required to crack them free. Then the shocks were stuck in the tubes. I poured penetrating fluid down them for days until they freed up. I have read/heard that others had to drill a hole in the bottom of the strut and drive the shock out with a punch. Last resort, but worth considering. Use a big punch otherwise you might puncture the shock. Heat, my usual favorite, is not the right solution to brake the shock free from the tube due to the danger of shock explosion. Welcome to world of z suspension overhaul. Tried the spindle pins yet? Jim

There is a thin spacer plate on the end of the crank that has to come off! Just stare at the end, you'll see it. Its just sitting there. And you need to put a pilot bushing in the end of the crank for the manual trans input shaft to fit in. There is a thread on here with detailed step by step instructions on everything you need to collect and do. Search and yee will find, something like that. Let us know if you run into any problems. Jim

So we are done with the head liner install on the 74. Too easy. We are using the MSA replacement, which is good in two ways. It is quite stiff, and has a fabric/netting stuff over the foam, so it takes glue really well. We (two of us) held it up and tucked it in all around the outside with no glue first to test fit, center it and to mark center. It pretty much holds itself up without glue its so stiff. One of use then sat in the passenger seat and held up half and kept it in position, while the other guy pulled down the headliner on the other half and sprayed it with glue, waited the 5 minutes as suggested, then stuck it back up. Repeat on the other side, tuck it back in around the edges, all with fingers, no sticks. Done in 30 minutes. Left about 6 inches all around the edge with no glue to make tucking easy. I guess the true test will be tomorrow if its still up there! Thanks for the tips, took all the stress out of by having a plan in mind. Jim