zKars

I am co-incidently doing the same repair. Must be "fix the frame rails" week. I too have a bad passenger side, good driver side. Stupid leaking batteries, time and water entrappment. Grr.... As an aid to re-positioning the T/C mounting cup in the "right" place, I am planning on temporarily re-installing the K-member, control arms and T/C rods . With the driver side T/C mount still in the stock position, it should help to place the passenger side mount in exactly the right spot. If you do this as well, remember to measure carefully to get the K member square to the frame first. Maybe measure from front to the rear suspension on both sides to a nice reference point to get the distances the same. Did you have to make a new pocket in the new frame rail where the k-member mounts? I made two, (don't ask why...) and could make another in an hour (practice makes perfect) or so if you need one! Hope this helps! Good luck with the repair. Ain't fabricatin' and weldin' fun? Jim

There is only 35 minutes left in the auction! Thank God you brought this up! It will look soooo good in my glove box. Thanks! Or I can go by an organizer and get my black sharpee out and make for own! I so confused. What to do. Jim

Seems to me that Zman of washington has advertized that he can rebuild them. Give him a try. http://www.zspecialties.com/

Everyone I'm willing to purchase and ship door panels to who ever wants them in the US. I'm in western Canada. Real and actual cost of shipping of course. Drop me a pm or email z240 "at" shaw "dot" ca and we'll take it from there. My pleasure to help. This is too important an opportunity for all of us to let it slip away. Jim

www.zspecialties.com has them too.

All 260's, early and late, had the 280 style console/dash I believe, which puts the fuse box on the right passenger foot well in front of the door. Assuming that to be true, the fuse boxes are not interchangable. Jim

I don't believe so. 280's did, a couple of styles, but not 240s'. They had mounting points for them, 240 don't. Not in NorthAmerica anyway. Jim

This winter I'm working on restoring a club members 12/70 240, and today along with many other things, I had to remove the mud flaps. Now, you wouldn't expect this to be a process that typically warrants sharing with you, but I am sure I win some kind of award for what I found and what I had to do. Just had to show you. As you will see by the first picture, there were eight different fasteners with a variety of nuts/washers holding the two front mud flaps to the fender, four each side, requiring, if I remember, seven trips back and forth to the tool box to get the right wrench/screw driver/nut driver/plier etc. What impressed me most is time it likely took that guy to find those bits and pieces was about the same time it would have taken to go buy 8 sheet metal screws from the store. What was he thinking!? Taking them both off required thirty minutes. And the owner wonders how my billable hours add up so fast.... Mind you this is the same car that I found many other ingenious solutions "applied" during past "restorations" such as the fuse box replacement noted in the second picture. A first glance, you think, hey, that's slick! Those little breakers are great!. The time required to fabricate it was not small!! But think; when you blow a "fuse", how do you tell which one is tripped? Sure, they reset shortly, but if it blows again, and again, how do you tell which circuit has the problem!!?!? Arghhh.... There is much more to share, but this was the best so far. Wish me luck! Jim

Shadesh: I have all the bits and pieces you need. The eccentric, insulator (between pump body and the head), the gaskets, and a used pump for that matter. PM me and we will work out the details. Jim

Mr Blakeney is bang on again. Do not use the stock EFI pump without a reg. The regulator that NissanMan has a link to requires a 3/8 diameter return line to regulate for the flow rates desired. This is far larger than the stock lines making this reg unsuitable. Don't ask how I know. Best solution of all for stock SU's is to use a stock mechanical pump. Quiet, no wiring, simple. Here's hoping you have a head with the open casting to mount it, and the eccentric on the cam sprocket to drive it. If you have a stock 75 L28E, you very likely have all that. I supply a set of triple 45's Solex on my stroker quite nicely with a stock pump, after much grief trying to find the right combo of high capacity fancy electric pumps and regulators to work consistently. If you need a list of what you need, let me know. Lots of great folks here to help you get it right. Jim

I would suggest welding up the leak. Simple, cheap. Fast. I have a j-pipe if you get desparate . Let me know z240@shaw.ca Jim

Joce: Scott and I need the battery tray/firewall/wheel well/fender area around the battery tray for his 71 resto. I'll send details tonight when I get home. Thanks! Jim

Above the ECU on the driver kick panel It has two squarish (6?) pin plugs that plug into it. The screw that holds its bracket down is real fun to remove....

I have a complete front 4 screw SU you can have for $45 including shipping. Send me a pm if you're interested. Jim

This is the only setup I have seen specifically for Z's. http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/products.php?cat=3 John can also help with advice on this I'm sure. Jim

In my back yard, with about 5 others with no home. pm me if your interested. $50 shipped to your front door. Jim

pm sent with pictures and pricing John. Let me know. Jim

pm sent John. Let me know if I can help.

These bolts are all 6mm x 1.00 thread. As to length, the arm rest bolts are about 1", the pull bolts are more like 3/4" . Heads have trapped washers. Hope this helps. Jim

My creak was caused at the pin that goes through and connects the pedal arm and clutch rod clevis. You know the one, the one with the little lock pin that is SO much fun to put back in while lying upside down under the dash. I went throught the usual spray lube on the spring, boot, rod etc and it would go away for a while. Even changed the master thinking it was internal to it. It worked for a while, then it came back..... Grrrrr..... Conclusion? replace the pin (its worn from years of contact pressure). If you rotate it out if its usual "resting" place, the creak will go away. Once it moves back to its old spot, "squeak creak, AHHHHHHH!!! " Jim

The Compact does "fit", I put it in my 73. Great cooling capacity. It requires that the cowl area directly above the new fan be "modified" with a body hammer to raise the roof slightly, and the trans tunnel to be "lowered" slightly where the drain fitting sits. This is all in the name of getting it to sit as close to the firewall as is necessary to get it to fit behind the dash and sit level. It is a tight fit, the mini fits much better as the fan is oriented differently making it shorter overall. Reminds me to complete the document that describes all this and to post it! Jaspendlove, send me a pm with your e-mail and I'll forward all my pics at least. Jim

PM sent.

I'll look tonight and see if I have a spare. I'm in Calgary. Yours for the price of the stamp if I have one. Jim

Einer Brasso still runs and owns the Brasso Nissan dealership in Calgary, although It is no longer in its original location. I'll have to ask him if he remembers those events and pictures. I'm quite sure he will. "White hatting" special visitors is still a Calgary tradition. This is a story worth sharing with the rest of the Calgary Z Club members. It is very special to show the connection that little old Calgary had as a part of those historic times. If the trip 26th suggests ever happens, Calgary will do its part to support the effort!! Jim

The end result is worth the effort. I had the same trouble. Get a small flat blade screwdriver, jeweler size, like what you tighten your glasses with. Press down on the bulb, into the socket, hard, with one finger, then use the Screwdriver blade to "help" the pin on the side of the bulb base that you can see seated in the j-slot in the plastic housing up, then push, pry etc to move/rotate until its clear of the j-slot. Might want to wear a glove on the holding hand, that screwdriver bit likes to slip into the flesh with the amount of force you need.. The new bulbs go in much easier, and will make an amazing difference. Also clean your dimming rheostat to help make sure you have full voltage on the bulbs! Good luck! Jim