Everything posted by zKars
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Newbie question on cylinder bolts
I'm pretty skeptical that an attempt to retorque head bolts in an old engine is going to 1.) fix his problem, and most importantly 2.) any torque applied to the heads will actually go into any additional clamping force on head. For those of you who have taken old head bolts out, how many have threads that are clean, well oiled and can be spun out by hand? Answer? 0. How many of you have broken at least one in the process? Answer, likely a few. Even if Brian does get the bolts loose without breaking any, how even and accurate is the re-torque likely to be given the condition of those threads? Just seem like such a low probability of success and such a high prob of making it worse.... Sorry to be Mr. Cautious this morning...
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Distrbutor removal
Oil in the dizzy mount hole is normal. Relax on that. Repairing that hole is best done by welding it up then re-tapping the hole. Any machine shop can do the welding. Use the cap to guide your drill bit to start the new hole. Have to take all of the guts out first. Not the cheapest or easiest route, but the best. Other options; JBL weld/Epoxy the hole then retap (quick result, short life, but how often do you take the cap off), next use a bolt that passes through the hole and use a nut on the end, or Jb/weld epoxy the nut on the bottom so it stays put. Next, try to find a very small nutsert. Last, buy another base. Put an ad in the 'Want to Buy' section. Other ideas anyone?
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Adjusting Valve Lash (Clearance)
Wow! Nice job of laying out all the issues. I'll start. First, you need a 14 mm and a 17mm wrench. The other issues are covered in archives several times. Search for "Valve Adjustment". Oh, one warning. the hot and cold clearance specs have been reversed in some references. Hot are wider. Kinda counter intuitive, but true. next!
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Hello from Z dreams
If the VIN really is 8765, its not a 72! more like about a 08/70 build date, makes it a 71. Check the drivers door jam ID plate to get the build date and get back to us.
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Rear strut bearing verses bushing
I'm betting the PO put that bearing in place in the rear as the original rubber bushing was missing or deteriorated and the only thing that is the "same" and readily available is the bearing intended for the front (same size). Unless someone at Nissan was having a very early thought about HICAS rear steering back in the 70's, there is no need for a bearing in the rear.
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Door handle
What is really interesting is the standard BD on-line catalogue has them at $19.95 http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=16 while that page Jeff referenced has them at $34.95 and $29.95. Seems like either way that's a heap better than Singapore....
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Need fuel regulator advice - Radical cam - 78 280Z
Hmmmm... 300 cc/min injectors on engine designed for 185cc/m injectors. Maybe the fuel pressure regulator is not the only reason for running a tad rich....... Just thinking out loud here.... Your not going to get control of your fueling problems with the stock EFI system.
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Mr. Matsuo on MotoMan..
Oh sure, now I can really concentrate on work after watching that. Thanks a lot.....
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Trim above windows
Ah that nasty little piece. First, realize that it is held on by its shape mostly, and one little internal clip at the back end that makes it extra tight at that end. So, starting at the back end. Put tape on the paint around the end of trim, on the paint to avoid boo-boo's. Use a large blade screw driver or similar prying device and "convince" the end to pop off by prying it away from the body, in an outward and upward motion. Use as wide a blade as you can find, something that can press on the body and not cause damage. Put a wooden backing stick behind it if you have to. Once the end is free, the rest just "rotates" off. Looking at the end, from the back towards the front, rotate the trim clockwise, pulling it up and away from the body. Once its off, study the shape of the piece and the shape of the lip on the car and you'll understand how they hook together. Oh, and I'm still working on that list. Haven't forgotten.
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Interesting Carb Substitution on a 73?
Thanks gang! Heard what I wanted to hear, something along the lines of "there's trouble brewing...." The silly $6000 price tag just lost at least one zero.....
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Interesting Carb Substitution on a 73?
Whilst perusing the local kijiji ads in my neck of the woods this morning, I came across this "lovely" (cough cough) specimen of a 73. http://regina.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1973-Datsun-Z-Series-Hatchback-W0QQAdIdZ243202306 What is interesting is the carb substitution seen in attached picture. Anyone know what those came from? They have the visual cues of SU/Hitachi ' ishness, but clearly aren't the usual culprits. Mostly I'm trying to decide if they are a suitable for our application. The car appears to be not running from the text of the ad, and of course makes you wonder if there more of a reason than the need for a battery and fuel lines.... Any ideas?
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is AM radio worth much?
I'm up for that! Let me know a complete list of what you want to swap and we'll get this worked out. Send me a PM or a note to z240@shaw.ca Thanks!
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Door window frame weatherstrip (outer)
Picture #1 goes on top of the door frame in the groove, #2 goes on the bottom of the door, held on with 4 (5?) push in plastic pins. Both are the correct after market part for the application from what I've seen. Both are side to side interchangable. Just turn them around. Two carpenters are talking. One brings up a hand full of nails. "Half of these have the heads on the wrong ends!", complains one. The other looks at him, as if he's an idiot, and says, "you idiot, those are for the other side of the house!!"
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Strut bearing and insulator
Front same, back different. The 280 insulator is much taller in the rear, The "bearings" (front has an actual bearing, the rear has a some size rubber donut) are the same 240-280. So as long as you're doing the front, go get the 77 parts.
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trying to fix exterior door handle
Raltz: There a few Canadian parts not too far away. I'm in Calgary, drop me a line to z240@shaw.ca and we'll get you what you need. Assuming you need it for a Z. I can't think of a way of repairing it in a way that would last. Jim
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In need of a Hazard light switch (1972 Z) anyone? Please!!
The pull switch is from a 73. Electrically I believe its the same. You can take it out, dis-assemble it, clean the contacts, and re-assemble it. Do the same with the head light switch on the steering column assembly. If you don't want to tackle that, send it to Z'sondabrain for work. If you just want a new switch, put an ad on the want to buy section of the site. I was tempted to suggest you learn about the period when composing sentences, but I finally spotted one in your text, so I won't bring that up. Jim
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how do i remove the pilot bearing
Did a little searching and came up with http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3129
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Steering Rack bushings . . .
You may have the wrong bushings. There is a different spacing between the ears on the 280 rack (on one side only), requiring a wider bushing to fill the space. The ES kit for 280 and 240 are different only in this one bushing if I recall correctly. If you use the 240 rack bushing on a 280 rack, you get room for movement. Ask me how I know. I did the bushing replacement several years ago as I also changed the rack. I then went for a drive. Made a left turn, and when my wheel returned to "center" it stayed about 10 deg left of center. Car is going striaght! Make a right turn, now the wheel sits 10deg right of center. Car still going straight. Rack was shifting with each turn. Had to go through the grief again with the right bushing. Turns out the rack I swapped was for a 280.
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Okay, so I found an advantage that the Canadians have...
Steve: Nice to hear someone saying something nice about our little spot on the planet. Thanks! Well, of immediate interest that you have to visit is a little place called Princess Auto (have no clue how that came up with THAT...) (princessauto.com) The place reminds me of Harbour Freight, but better in my opinion (based on one store I visited in Vegas recently). Lots of automotive related tools and equipment, and stuff you just don't find other places. There seem to be several stores in Ontario. Hopefully you will find one close to where you are going. I just know I NEVER leave there without buying 3-5 things I had NO intention of buying when I went in.... Take care with the amount of money you take with you, maybe leave your credit card at home....
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Konig Wheel Issue
I had the usual and expected hub cap problem with mine, but on one side, there was also an interference problem with the hub. I had to grind a small amount of metal from the hub casting around the wheel opening area to get clearance to allow the tabs on the cap to both pass through the hole and expand enough to catch on the other side. The amount you have to deform the grease cover to gain the depth you need is miniscule, the real problem for me was the clearance with the hub to get it to seat. Putting the cap on first then mounting the wheel will result in broken tabs. Ask me how I know.....
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window regulator interchangeability
Chris. I have 240 regulators in great shape. Don't go to the junk yard yet. Drop me a line at z240@shaw.ca and we'll get them on the way.
- Blue smoke and high capicity oil pump
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Engine water drain plug
Is it just the time of day or is age getting to me? All L-6 series blocks I've seen in Z's have the drain on the intake/exhaust side (left side) on the block down under the #5-6 exhaust area. I've seen a couple of different sized heads, but its always in the same place. Someone tell me I'm not crazy! Jim
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Water Temperature Sender?? Maybe?
The green hard stuff around the broken off wires our temp switch can be chipped or scrapped away to expose more wire. Scrap the individual wire strands to expose clean bright copper and solder your wires back on. mix and dab some epoxy on the bare soldered connection to strengthen and insulate the connections. Then get back to enjoying your Z.
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Replacing engine frame rails
Charlie Osbourne (Zedd Findings) make replacements so at least you don't need to re-create them. They do not come with the TC rod pockets though. I've used them, they are wonderful. With what you've done already, I think you can handle it. I do like the idea of an over-lay of fresh material, sounds easier and definitely stronger, but I worry about rust coming back underneath eventually if you're not VERY careful about rust removal and sealing.