beandip

I live in the Portland Or area and I am a member of NorthWest Z Car Club. Recently one of our members took there '71 240 to a Body Shop for a repaint. The Z was taken to the shop as a shell . The Shop did a super job on any and all problem areas, some sheet metal work was needed and they had to hand fabricate some hard to do parts and the work done is flawless, and the paint job is first rate. My Z suffered some minor damage to a fender , door ding, that went to the metal and gauged the paint. The same shop repaired my Z needing to repaint the front fender and door. I picked my Z up yesterday and am vary satisfied with the quality of workmanship . I just wanted to recommend the shop. All American Muscle 503 367-7236 They are in Hillsboro Oregon. Gary:classic:

Welcome to the club. We have something in common, I found my 240 next to a barn here in Oregon. You have come to the right place. You will find a treasure trove of information when you use the search. All the best to you on your project. Gary

Just be aware that the gage has no indication of what pressure it is reading. It is just a general indicator. Depending on how it is adjusted it could read anything. this is why I went straight to a mechanical to get the actual pressure at the different RPM . This way when I reinstalled the sending unit I can feel confident that at a given RPM I know what the engine is doing, and what the gage means when it shows near zero , in my case , it means 25psi. Which is fine. At Idle. Gary

Since you have the dash out and the gages are accessible. If you remove the gage and take take he back off and paint inside he metal dome WHITE . You will find that Nissan had painted a little white in there , but if you do the whole dome , light will be reflected forward and the gage will be much brighter. EScanlon told me of this years ago and it is a good tip. Use some Mcguire's plastic polish on the lenses while you are in there and the gage will look better than new. Gary

Usually when you add a oil cooler you also install a turbo pump. I recommend you spend about$15.00 and buy a mechanical oil pressure gauge. remove the sender and use this port. this way you can see exactly what the engine is doing. My gage was reading near zero so with it mechanical gage I am getting 25 psi at idle and 50 psi at 2K on a warmed engine. both are vary good numbers. Gary

Just a word of advise. You started our asking about a blown gasket. Then went to a brake problem. Before someone makes a big deal of this. The brake situation should be a separate thread. This is because in the future someone else looking with the search function, might have there question answered by accessing the discussion. With the 2nd topic mixed in with the gasket problem , makes it difficult to find. No harm no fowl, this is just how we operate here. good to have you in the Club. Gary

Check with Zedd Findings . Charley Osborne may have it. He has new floors and rockers and such , and he may have a hatch sill also. Gary

I am assuming that you have changed the fuel filters. If you have a pressure gauge that you could connect to the supply line of one of the carbs and start the engine with it running on what is in the float bowl . your pump should be putting out 3 to 5 PSI. However it does sound like you have a faulty pump or one that is not meant for a Z engine. Gary

Yes there is a short metal line that connects the Master to the Slave. They shouldn't be too difficult to find. Since my Z is a automatic I cannot help you with one , however since most Zs are manual . Any one that is parting out a Z should be able to help you with one. Gary

When you are saying lag . Is it the engine stumbles or hesitates?

I used he B-quiet Ultimate also. two 50' rolls. that is 100 sq ft. I did all including the cowl and firewall, all the way back to the tail lights. I did the backs of the plastic trim panels and inside the doors . I did the fenders up above the rear wheels and the cavity where he evap tank and the antenna. Inside the spare tire tub and tool boxes. I did not do the roof. As Mike says it is easy to apply , there is no smell. It has been on my Z for 5 years and I couldn't be more happy. As a side, it is much less cost . This is not why I went with the product. Gary

I am running a '82 ZX na engine in my '73 with SUs. Just for kicks , because my car is exempted, I took my Z to DEQ. The emissions testing station here in Oregon. I am running a street cam, headers , no cat, Head milled to 9.5 compression, and a ZX ignition. I passed the testing. She was just marginal at idle but cleaned up fine at fast idle, 2500 rpm. I have zero emissions equipment on the engine . PCV valve , that is it. You are feeling like you want to go green. What can I say. My engine runs strong with the SUs. If you want injection look to after market set up. Gary

Sounds like the paint was applied over rust in the first place. As Bruce said it might be coming from the other side of the metal panel , or from under some bondo. Where exactly is this problem area? Gary

Ha ha Sorry She is a '93 300ZX He told me the '94-96 were the same. Seems odd to me that on a newer car that there were none in the U S . I know that there were not that many convertibles made though.

Snoop, what year is your Zed? Electrical pump plus mechanical or just one or the other. If you have a electrical pump then there is a filter before the pump . Change that one first there is another filter in the engine bay and screens at the ''banjo'' fittings on the SUs . If injected this is a different story.

I went to the bone yard , found a 84 Maxima pulled the alt, used Dave Irwin's plug and play in the harness . At idle she never goes negative even with 90/100 head lights and every thing else on. It's a 90 amp. alt and the pulleys do not need to be changed , just a bolt on and go. $32.00

daarbji, to answer your question. I have a question. Are you planning on doing all the work in one venture or bit by bit? You said mostly you were looking at the interior, and paint. Also the engine . If this is the total package you are looking to do at one venture . I recommend pulling the engine , interior completely dash included. Now if you are looking to do a repaint , remove the glass . Also the wiring. Give the rolling shell to a shop. Even if the body is in great shape, you will find that there is some dings and blemishes that need fixing. Have the shop do the engine bay, and jambs and spare tire tub. Hopefully when you pulled the interior you also removed the tar mat on the foot wells and found no rust. When you get the car back you can attack any surface rust on the floors with POR or some other rust preventive. Start reassembly . While the Z is in the shop you can address the gages polishing the lenses and painting the gage ''cups'' inside with white paint. Go through the heater and do what is necessary there. From here I went to sound deadening on the floors and doors and inside the rear fenders and also inside he plastic rear panels. I used a product form B-Quiet and am vary happy. I bought 100 sq. ' of ultimate and used almost all of it. It comes in 1'X 50' rolls. easy to work with and is self sticking. Send me a PM if you need more info. Gary

There is a member in the Club I belong to that has a 300ZX Convertible . He needs a wind shield and cannot come up with one. If anyone can help please do. Gary

To polish the cover , I started with 1000 wet/dry with kerosene then went to 1500 grit. then polishing compound sticks I bought at Sears. of all places. I did the domes on my S Us as well. Some one sells neoprene gaskets instead of cork. If you can fine them this is the way to go , they don't seep oil. I don't know a source . Hopefully some one out there will come up with one. Gary

I am glad you found the problem. What needles are in your SUs ? I recently bought a set of S Us from up there and they had 58 needles. Too lean for us flat landers but you might check yours. I am running 54s but I am at near sea level. Just a thought. Gary

I have the first one with the longer tube. The problem of a touchy throttle is with either of these . It is the geometry of the levers having to overcome the resistance of movement. Drivers have been dealing with this for years . Some have found relief by removing one of the levers and repositioning it. Before you do this check the pivots on the balance tube. Where he linkage rod passes through. I find when my throttle feels sticky if I lube these two places it helps a lot. Gary

I used a brand of material called ultimate from B-Quiet . Bought it on line. for just a little space like that , just go to a automotive paint supply. They should have some Tar Mat or some thing similar. The Ultimate has a sticky back and it has a foil face. Sandwiched under the foil is a matt of tar material. So you can cut it with heavy scissors or a utility knife, peal off the back covering and stick it on. It will not come off once pressed in place. Comes in 12'' wide by what ever length , up to 50'. I used two fifty foot rolls. But I covered most of the inside and inside the doors plus the back side of the plastic trim panels and inside the rear fenders over by the antenna and gas fill area. As escanlon said this stuff is for attenuation, the drum effect, and it does not absorb the sound. Gary

I agree with the NGKs , but the motor should at least run with the new plugs regardless which brand they are. Maybe not to its potential . Champions bit the dust when installed in my engine. My PO ''tuned her up" I barely made it home. Gary

If by chance you have a R-200 , you can pull one of the half shafts loose from the wheel end and give it a jerk and the stub will pop out of the pumpkin and you can fill it from there. I haven't needed to try this but have seen it posted several times. One thing if you do remove the transverse link that is blocking your access to the fill plug. don't torque down the bolts for the bushings with the car off the ground. there should be a load in the car of a couple of hundred pounds and the Z resting on the wheels . Then torque it down. Otherwise you will be putting a twist in the bushings . It's in the service manual . Gary

I have used quite a lot of POR and I agree with EScanlon . If you are only doing the spare tire tub and have good ventilation you wont have any problem with the fumes. It is a different thing if you were doing a large area or spraying it on. You will find the paint will flow out when brushed on to the point that it looks like it was sprayed on. If you wish to spray the car color over the POR do it BEFORE it cures when it is still a little tacky , this way the color paint will bond. If you are going to apply POR over a painted surface , like was already said scuff it off first like you would for any other paint. However treat he whole area to be covered with POR paint with the marine clean and metal ready following the directions on the can. It loves skin and becomes permanent when allowed to cure. If you don't take it off right away it will have to wear off your skin. Trust me on that. I disagree with Sailor Bob on the Marine clean being just a degreaser. It will etch aluminum so don't use it on polished aluminum parts as a cleaner/degreaser. It has more in it than just a cleaner. Again experience. The tester kit should be plenty for the job shown. Gary