beandip

the KYB adjust ables not the G2s. The KYB g-2s are more for street. Stiffer than OEM but not like Tokicos . I have the G-2s and for street they are great for me. I don't do any track use . Hi speed and hard driving in the twistes with Stage 1 springs , this combo works for me . I have ridden and driven Zs with Tokicos and Illuminas , and for track use are vary good. But I found them too harsh for normal driving even on good surfaces and on a distance drive , tiring. If you are looking for performance this is the good combination. my 2 Cs Gary

I use never seize and lock washers and a torque wrench. Rarely any loctite.

By turning the engine over with the crappy oil in was your first mistake . Drain that contaminated stuff and change the filter. Hopefully the cam is still OK , but pour oil over the whole valve train before you turn it any more. Sitting all this time the cam was dry and turning the engine over even by hand can mess up the rockers and cam lobes. When you do turn it over watch to make sure none of the valves stick in position especially open. This is a frequent problem and means bent valves and could be damaged pistons. Since you are wanting to install a vary heavy V-8 and since there is no frame on these cars . Doing some reinforcing is recommended. Beside the weight the torque is another reason. Congrats on the find . She looks like a good car especially for the money. All the best with your project. Gary

I suggest that you start checking connections . Make sure all are clean and that you have a good ground. Someone else may come on with more info. You might have a relay that is acting up. I don't own a 280 , so don't have much experience with them . Sorry. Gary

When the strobe fires the mark on the engine dampener is pointing to 16* on the degree plate mounted on the engine. Does your timing light have a adjustment knob on it? If it does be sure it is set at zero. I haven't seen either video. Gary

Also on the ZX motor the heads are marked either P-79 for a NA engine and P-90 or 90a for a turbo head. The turbo engine has dished pistons and he NA flat topped pistons. All the F-54 blocks are alike. Gary

First thing , you need to cure the oil pressure situation. You can pick up a cheap manual oil pressure gage for about $15.00. Just remove the sender and screw in the line there. this will tell you what is going on. My Turbo pump puts out 25 at idle and 50 psi at 2500 rpm. Compare to that. I also use the ZX dist. but set my timing at 16* btdc. #1. Do you have water running through the intake manifold? At a Show last weekend , we were able to put some of our Zs on the dyno. The Zs without water cooling the intakes , once the engine was run on one pull , even though allowed to cool down . They predetonated at the higher revs. I run with coolant in the intake and did not have that problem. This might be what you are finding above 4K. Because today's oils are formulated for the new cars. The oil companies have removed the zinc from there oils for emission reasons. Our engines and engines with flat tappets suffer early cam and rocker failure because of this. Valvoline Racing oil has the correct formulation. You can contact Hagerty Ins. to verify this among several other sources. I mention this because you have a new engine. #4 When allowing the engine to slow the car on compression and you have back fire, a little of this is normal , more like a light popping not a cherry bomb bang. Have you checked or adjusted the floats in the carbs? If the float is set too high it will cause raw gas to enter the air stream in the carb just as if the choke was pulled on. this could account for. #3 This is generally referred to as a lean pop. Unless the timing is not set correctly. All the best. Gary

Are you using SUs or Flat top Carbs? I have a '73 also and have been running a electric only for 8 years with out any trouble like what you describe. All SUs need for pressure is 3 to 5 psi. One thing , filters, change the filter in the engine bay and the one at the tank ahead of the pump. If this doesn't cure the problem then , on the SUs ware the gas line connects to the carb , there is a round fitting. This fitting has a vary fine screen. If you still are having flow trouble try blowing air back through the supply line back to the tank . If the line is blocked in the tank this might unplug it. If this clears the problem, you need to pull the tank and take it to a radiator shop. If you have flat tops I cannot help with those.

To answer your question. Blue smoke is a indicator of oil being burned. If the engine is fully at driving temp. it sounds like worn piston rings. How many miles on the engine? I sent you a PM I apologize for the stupid remarks that were made by others on a seriously asked question. Gary

O boy, you are going to see 100 opinions on this one. I have been using Quaker State 10w30 for at least 40 years with great success. However there has been some major changes in engine oil in the past few years . With all the emissions regulations in effect. The major oil companies have eliminated Zinc or its components from there oil. This has been the cause for premature failure on engines with flat tappets, also on our Nissan engines our rocker arms and cams. Valvoline RACING does have the proper Zinc. Which I have gone to. Also Delo and Rotella has the proper compounds if you use the NON EMISSION rated oil, they have the emissions rated with out Zinc There are some other brands but they are difficult to find. Gary

Welcome to the group like has been said there is a lot of knowledge on tap here. By all means drain ALL fluids before you attempt to start or turn over the engine. Then pull the plugs and add some ATF into the plug holes , about a teaspoon full each. Leave the plugs out and after the oil has soaked in for 24 hours, try and turn the engine over with a socket on the crank pulley. NOT the starter. Also remove the valve cover and pour oil over the valve train first. Be watching the valves to see if they are not sticking while you turn the engine over by hand. Doing all of this could make the difference between saving the engine and replacing or having to rebuild it. All the best . Gary

Sad to see a Z in this condition. Here in the States , at least where I live . It wouldn't be a candidate for a parts car. That being said you can salvage almost any car. However to save this one would be VARY MUCH work and if you cannot do the body your self , just to costly. The cost would be double it's value at least, over here . Then you have the insides and the engine to rebuild. I redid my Z my self, with help from my friend. All the mechanical and body and paint . All of it. Parts here were not that difficult to find 5+ years ago. However I couldn't get what my expenses are out of the 240 not even accounting for the 3+ years of my time. I even drove my 240 home and for 2 yrs before I started on it. I paid $500.00 for the Z. Sorry but in my opinion the car is beyond saving. Unless you are willing to spend $25,000.00 on it. Gary

Vic it's good to hear that you are all right, and back from the missing. Not too many of us old timer left arround here. I guess I qualify at least the old part. Good you have turned the corner. GaryLOL

I bought a new pump at the parts store , fits the bottle and all. I don't remember what it cost but it wasn't much. Shucks auto parts. They are called Krager in other places.

i found a 240z in a yunkyard with these pieces and i was wondering if i can use them on my 260z? If the 240 has round top SUs then take those and the linkage your old linkage will not work with the round top carbs, also take the spacer the carbs bolt to. Take the air cleaner also. If the Z has flat top carbs , the only thing that is usable is the intake manifold and you already have one. Flat tops are not recommended at all. Seat belts, 70-71 don't have retractable seat belts '73 have retractable lap but not shoulder straps. '74s have both that retract. I have a '73 with round tops and I used the shoulder re-tractor from a '75. I recommend that you buy the club parts CD so when you go to the dealer with the part numbers , they will really appreciate it, and more likely will take the time to find what you need. Welcome to the group and all the best. Gary Even if you don't use the other round tops they are good for a core if you by some from ZTherapy.

I am just now posting on this because of the number of post recorded. I only read or post on topics that are about Zs where I can be of help. Unfortunately the childish banter from teeny boppers have driven many of the knowledgeable Z drivers away. Many have gone to hybridz where they don't put up with his stuff in the first place. Just as soon as a new member is known to be a Female the innuendo comments start. This is immature and ignorant and belong in the junior hi gym. I like this web site or I wouldn't have hung around so many years. I know Mike personally and how hard he works and the time he spends to constantly improve it. nuf said. Gary

I live in the Portland area , I know it's far from you, there is a shop here that does magic on Z head work Rushmortorsports Paul Rushman is the owner. I was at his shop a while back and he was working on one head and had two waiting. The one he was working on was from Holland , the second one from Denmark and the third was from England if I remember right. He has posted here on this site in the past. For me he is the only one I would have do my head work. We are fortunate to have craftsmen like Paul and Steve Epperly, owner of Ztherapy, near by Phred is another head guru around here . But he is busy with raceing at this time. If you would like to know more info on Paul Rushman send me a PM. I don't think he is cheep , but you get what you pay for. Gary

Hay , welcome to the group good to have you with us. If we can be of any help , give us a shout out. I have been where you are , and now have a nice 240. Gary resident old guy.

I lived 45 years in California and not far from the ocean. People that live along the coast have severe rust trouble, especially if they are not garaged and only under car ports or in the open. I now live in Portland Oregon 25 yrs, There is a mountain range that runs right along the coast . Most of the population live on the sheltered side of these mountains . Those that chose to live along the beach suffer the salt rust issues. One thing, like was stated we receive our 36'' of rain inland and 50+ on the coast, that helps as long as the car is garaged and has a chance to dry out. We have little if any rust issues due to salt that I know of. My Ford truck has never been under cover it's whole life and no rust problems it is a '90

I had planned on it , but things have gone sideways around here , with club meetings and such. It's vary doubtful for me. Gary