beandip

John . sorry you feel that way. Not much confusion for me really. I am just going , paying my $5.00 and I am going to enjoy the show with my friends . Both the ones I know and those I haven't met yet. I go every year and have always had a great time. There just has been some confusion over technicalities that frustrate some. I am just trying to mediate and solve the issue. The show in the past has gone on great and been fun and I don't see that this year will be any different. Some truly great cars and the people are OK too. Ha ha ha John you have my address , email me any time. Gary

That's great that you are coming in from that distance. If you are a solo driver this could be a push if you are planing on Saturday. I drove it from Billings to Portland in one shot, and wouldn't do it again. The last 3 hours were really tough, and I was dead tired upon arrival. Hope you have a uneventful trip, and I am looking forward to meeting you. Gary

117K and just a little smoke like you have described is not at all unusual. If you are using a good Quality oil I can see no need to use Rislone. I have used this product with good results years back with sticking hydraulic lifters. A used car I bought. Changing the oil as you have the engine should be vary clean indeed. I agree with Carl Beck on the seals. Gary

First off I am not affiliated with the club putting on the Canby show, and I cannot speak for them. I have only been passing on the information that has been given me in good faith. I called Bruce Palmer and asked him to talk to one of the board members and have them post to this thread and settle this once and for all. If what I have stated is not correct. I am surprised that by this late time of night there hasn't been a reply here, since I talked with Bruce about noon. Gary:smoke:

I am a member of a Z club and at our meeting Wednesday night and also at our previous monthly meeting . A member of the Datsuns N W club told us , both times. If you have not preregistered before the deadline that they will have closed the categories for judging. So if you arrive and want to be judged you can register at the gate pay the fee. However you will NOT be offered any separate class if your Car is other than a category already already established. For an example. If you are driving a 240 Z convertible 4 wheel drive. You would be in with the modified 240s, not in a separate class for convertible 4 wheel drive Zs. If you don't wish to be judged, then you pay the $5.00 fee and you will be included in the running for people's choice award. This is as clear as I can make it. From the information I was given. If this is in error , PLEASE , A MEMBER or OFFICER OF Datsuns North West come forward and clarify.

Your Nissan Dealer should be able to order the hose for you. The parts guys , you will find, are much more likely to come up with parts if you give them the part numbers. We sell a parts CD here on the web site, that is a copy of the Nissan micro fish. It is a great help when you are looking for parts . Some times it helps to find parts that are on other year Zs that are the same. Gary

The early registration is to set the different categories . This is not just a Z event. There are Roadsters , 5 10s , 1200s even Datsun Trucks. As well as the 350Zs. So if you don't preregister they cannot set a special category for you and you will be grouped with like cars , but but a modified may end up with the stock version. This is only for judging for the Trophies. Just to drive in and not be judged is $5.00 and you are eligible for the people's choice award. Gary

We have had only 10 full sunny days in the past 5 months. Right Global warming my a&% Driving my Z knowing that I built her just the way I wanted. Gary

So much depends on your location. Here on the left coast good cars go for a fraction of what they are in your neck of the woods. Two members of our club just brought up cars form Ca. One an original owner '71 with vary minor rust issues on one front fender newer rebuilt engine , interior and paint is vary good , other than the little rust I mentioned . $1700.00 The other one is a '72 with no rust , original owner paint vary good and interior great. He drove in home. $3K. Both were exceptional buys. I would guess that they would each go for double there prices on the East Coast. It's really what you are willing to pay, this sets the value. If they are asking 5K and you love the car and you can afford it , it is what it is. Where else could you buy a great sports car for less than 10K these days? Gary

holy sh*^ a talking chicken. Ha haa with this one you out did your self. Gary

Looks like we are going to have a good showing . I am thinking about 15+ Zs at the rest stop. Vary cool. Gary

You will need a pilot bearing. Did the tranny come with the necessary linkage for the throwout bearing? You didn't mention either bearing. How about the linkage bushings? That's all I can think of , in additional to what you listed. Gary

Not a ''tag along'' A Z driver is a Z driver and welcome any time. I am sure there will be Z people with out there Zs there also. :laugh: Its' great you will be driving your Z to the show , looking forward to seeing her. Love the color. Gary

Greg, If you want to meet up with some of us at the Arco station at Cornell and 26. I will be there at 8:45 There are three others that live out your way that I think will be there also. I did say 9:00 on a earlier post but I would like to arrive at the rest area about 9:15 to have a chance to visit a little, before we head out. Hope to meet you at the show. Gary

I agree with all the above. Just like I said in the PM. Four barrels are great on a V-8 when it can sit in the center of the engine . On a in-line engine , not so much. Many things have been tried over the years . If you do decide to go with the SUs , use the present intake , you will need to change the linkage between the two SUs because the space is different. A early air cleaner also is the best way to go. You can do a search on this . Gary

Just information. There is a group of us Z drivers gathering at the Roadside Rest on I-5 at 9:30 . this is the one on the South bound side of I-5, and it is just South of the first exit to Canby that you will see coming from the North. So if you are interested pass the first exit you see to Canby going South. We will be leaving shortly after 9:30 . It is always fun to meet the people we share email with and see there Zs. Gary

After so long since it hasn't run,the valves stuck down and the stuff came off the valve end. If you are EXTREEMLY lucky , you might not have bent the valves or punched a hole in a piston. This is why we recommend pouring oil over the valve train before turning the engine over with a wrench on the crank pulley several times. Any time these engines are turned off there is always two cylinders exposed to the out side atmosphere, plus the valve stems are exposed in the intake and exhaust ports. If they rust even slightly they can stick.

real good one! LOLROFL

Since I have installed your harness for the tail lights and marker lights Dave , mine are really bright and I have already polished the lenses and such. I wouldn't be interested in them for my Z. But they do look great . Gary

I am running a 280 ZX engine , in a 240Z which I have been told run hotter, than the other blocks. However I was running a 2 row 240 radiator and didn't have any over heating trouble. The rad was in good clean condition and even with triple digit heat in traffic no problem. I needed to replace that radiator because of a leaking condition . Now I am using a 280 radiator which is a 3 row and again all is good. It is just a longer unit and the bottom tank extends just past the lower rad support. I am fabricating a metal ''extension'' it the lower support so it will protect the tank and allow the sheet metal shield to again fit in place. In the years I have been driving my Z I can see no need for other than a OEM unit. And it does get hot in Oregon. Gary

I wanted to see just what mid range was in lbs. on my oil pressure gauge so I installed a mechanical gage . In my case the mid position reading is close to 50lbs, and 1/4 off the zero is about 25 lbs . this is where my engine runs when at idle and normal temp. The temp gage use either a candy thermometer in the top tank of the radiator or one of the infrared sensors on the market. Either will work fine , just keep the glass from touching the metal of the Rad. Gary

Jim are you still planing on a three day down here for Canby? It's been a long time coming, and we are all looking forward to seeing you and your Z. She really is a great looking Z. For any one reading this thread. Jim saved this Z form a rusty hulk that anyone else would scrapped. I cannot remember ever seeing another that was this bad saved. It is truly amazing . There is going to be cart races at Sy-Cart in Tigard on Friday evening. A group of us from NorthWest Z and anyone else that wants to have some fun. Sort of a kick off to Canby.

Johnny Rock, it might be a common problem for some but I have never had any overheating trouble with my '73. I have driven in eastern ore in triple digit heat and had to idle for construction a number if times on that trip and the engine heat gauge never went past the center. The same in town in well over 105* on the freeway with stop and go traffic. This was with the stock 2 row rad. If your radiator is clean and the thermostat is in good working order and not a after market part. Plus a good 13 lb cap. Your engine should run cool. Remember the temp gauge is just a indicator and it may give false readings, verify the high temp you are registering and if it is true , by all means fix the problem before you warp the head. Gary

What is the problem with the bushings you have not fitting? Are they too long too big around , what?

The wheel shouldn't spin freely , there should be some stiffness because of the heavy grease , but it should be smoothe . Like was already stated there is a drag spec. for rotation. What grease did you use to pack the bearings? Gary