beandip

The fogging that is talked about on old safety glass is from the seal between the two sheets of glass is leaking and moisture is getting in. It looks like milk, it is a white simi transparient look. It is found at the edges and will creep towards the middle of the glass.

mistery and atf are both 5wt oil, the recommended weight is 20w . the lighter wt oil will cause a lean mixture stumble from idle . It feels like a timing issue but it is caused by a lean fuel condition off the line. 10-30 would be the secound best if you cannot find fork oil

If you are going to hot tank the block and hone the cylinders , while the block is in the shop have them remove the broken bolt . If you couldent brake it loose with a socket and bar the vice grips won't come close. As was stated the EZ-out are made of steel as hard as a file and are brittle. They snap off and then you have a real problem . Believe us the little it costs to have the bolt removed , it is well worth it. Be sure to keep track of the main caps and where they came from the same for the rod caps and each of the rockers. They must go back to the same position when you reassemble the engine.

I am in the reassembly mode at present and what has been already said is vary important. Plus I recommend that you take the car to the car wash or some place that has a pressure washer and wash the suspention front and rear as well as the trans area . Clean the engine bay as well , this will make the job so much more pleasureable. Take detailed photos of the engine bay , showing the wireing and fuel lines and such . When you remove the different items like the heater , box it up and include all the fastiners and label the box as to its contents. Sharpies work vary well here and on the Zip-lock bags. If you are going to do a true restoration and not just a redo as I have done . Pull the engine and trans as a unit . Then you will be able to get at the engine bay and remove all the wireing and brake and fuel lines when you are ready for that. This is what I did and it worked out for me . I then removed the interior and all the wireing , followed by the glass hatch and doors. Scribe around the hinges before removing them , helps with reassembly. I dident remove my suspention as the front end had been rebuilt already . That and I am not doing a restoration . From this point the rotissery and a engine stand are a must , if you are doing a serious restoration. :rambo:

send a PM to phred he is a Z engine builder . Gary

I recommend using studs totaly for both manifolds and no bolts. Take a tap and clean the threds and use anti seize on both ends of the studs . If you have a ACE hardware where you live they have the studs. Gary

hope for the best , for you. Cant tell anything from the pictures other than it is blue and shinny.

Sounds like a discharged battery to start with. The clicking is most likely just the relay and or the starter solinoid , due to the low batt. If it were me I would start by checking the fluids . If the oil hasent been changed and new , change it and the filter. Replace the fuel filter , up by the front of the engine. Look at the brake fluid and if it is not clear change it and bleed the systime . While doing this take a good look at the rubber brake lines that are at each wheel and change if AT ALL SUSPECT. Do this before bleeding the systime. Same thing with the clutch systime. Brake fluid will collect moisture and will rust out the cylinders. There are a couple of books that you will find to be vary helpful. How to restore your Datsun Z-car , by Wick Humble it's a Fisher Books . I found mine at Amazon , a shop manual from Nissan is vary good and can be found on Ebay . The CLYMER shop manual that spacificly is for the years 1970-1979 is also pritty good , it is out of print but can be found on e bay for around $10.00. There are others but they are more specific, these are good for general information for dealing with the removal and repair of most subsystems like engines , suspention and brakes and such.

I just want to add , that after you have it up and running watch the temp and also it would be a good idea to change the oil and filter again after you have run a couple of hundred miles. Maybe less depending on how dirty it gets. I recommend that you buy a copy of How to restore your DATSUN Z-CAR by Wick Humble . I think you will find it most helpful , also the tape from Ztherapy on the SU carberators , do this before you attempt the work on them. Dont use regular parts dip on the carbs! watch the tape first , it will save you much money. As things come up remember we are here to help. Welcome to the Z ''club'' Gary

Just a thought , if you want a 3.70 diff in a 180 unit , look for a maxama with a manual trans . They have the 180 and in a 3.70 ratio. Gary :rambo:

I have a color tune as well and I think it is especially valuable when changing needles on the SUs. As a side note : I recently removed the PCV valve from my ballance tube to check it and found that it was leaking a little , not a great deal but if I hadent cought it , It could have caused a lean condition from the vacume leak. Just one more thing to check on especially if a vacume leak is suspected. I just soaked mine in ATF and it cleaned it up fine.

You shouldent have any trouble. When the engine was assembled they use lube on the bearing surfaces. It wouldent hurt to oil the cylinders , and turn it over with a wrench. I would do this agan before start up , and also pour oil over the cam. Then with oil in the engine and the plugs out , spin the engine on the starter , this will get the oil pump moving oil into the crank and rod bearings. When you install the oil filter , first fill it with oil as best you can. I had my engine on a stand in a barn for 2 yrs unheated . I did turn it over every month or so , and I oiled the cylinders once . Dident have a problem. Gary

Does it come with a HONDA BADGE to put on the rear hatch?

don't waist any money on a radio or a sound system. Spend it on ear plugs! this is going to set off car alarms . I am glad you dont live near me. Gary

I just pulled my 180 and installed a R-200 used the same half shafts I had and changed the M Bar that is all. Not a big deal . the bolts for the M bar to the gear housing are larger for the R- 200 so you will need them. If your half shefts have 4 bolts on the end at the gear housing they will work.

I wouldent go through the trouble for such a little difference. Personally for me as a daily driver I wouldent go with a 411 , 390s maybe , If you do much hiway or freeway driving look for a 370 diff. I think you would like them with the L-24 . The 390 is great off the line but you will be spinning some Rs at freeway speeds and that will get old. These Zs have the different ratioes '81-83 have 3.90 in the N A cars and '79-'80 ZXs 3.70 go to this web site geocities.com/zgarage2001/ tons of great info there on this . click on performance tips and scroll down to the diff section. Gary

go to your pvt messages neighbor.

I have been running a RX-7 pump from a '79 for about 3 yrs. I bought a spair because it was right there and only $15.00 . We tried it on a friends tripple Mikuni's on his stroker engine and it supplied them great. So great that he went out and bought one himself. They pump right at 4 psi. and the SUs handel the pressure just fine. Gary also they are quiet and can be heard only if the engine is not running. They are a turbo pump and spin at high speed , be sure to put a inline filter on the tank side of the pump.

I have been running a RX-7 pump from a '79 for about 3 yrs. Gary

It is not the inline 6 it's the FIREING ORDER !!!!!! what works on another inline engine is of no reguard here . The tripples will work but the gain in minimal . I say go for it . Do it . but take the car to the dyno first then after the install and report back . They look good . run with out air cleaners and they sound good. Some people like the stainless buckets on the hondas too.

We really need more information. Is the engine equiped with round top SUs or the flat tops ? What ignition is installed , stock with points ? Are you speaking of the ''surging '' when the engine is other than normal temp. ? The clunking is for another thread . Lets concentrate on one thing at a time.

1999 , good call , this is what I was going to say. Its all about the sequence and the interupted flow of the air mixture that deminishes the charging of the cylinders. Insted of the mixture continuing to move in a direction of the cylinders and there fore , to a degree , packs or compresses before the intake valve closes . It is interupted and stops ,then has to start again , thus loosing the ram effect. Tripple Mikunis or Webbers on the other hand amount to having one carb per cylinder , and with the correct stack can maintain the volicity of the mixture to the cylinder. They would look cool though.

Many things vary for this answer , condition of the power plant and tuneing as well as rear end gearing and wheel and tire size. I would say though that the max mileage will be about 23 MPG give or take a mile or two. With a L-24 engine top speed at about 100 MPH . Your top speed will be dictated by the HP of the engine and gearing. If your gearing is to low the engine will be past it's power rainge at a lower MPH . If the overall gearing is too high the engine will not be able to attain the enough RPMs to reach the power range. With the proper gearing for the horse power of your engine all this will be in ballance and on the level , I still think 100 to 105 MPH. Gary I hope to visit your country soon . My Wife and her Sister toured there a few years ago and had a wonderfull time. All the best to you and yours.

On my '73Z I have the early 240 bumpers and the shock mounts are gone . The mounting is a direct boult up bracket that uses the stock bolt holes. I have removed all the rubber form the front bumper and I used stainless steel carrage bolts to fill the holes . I polished them to a shine that looks just like chrome and they mearly look like mounting bolts. I am not running the vertical over riders either , I prefer the minimal cleaner look. my 2cts

THIS IS GREAT THAT YOU FOUND A GOOD Z , YOU ARE NOW INFECTED AND THERE IS NO CURE .CONGRATULATIONS GARY