DrFeelGood

I love it when people return and close up a thread.

Last weekend I found a jack hold-down at Powerland swap and meet in Oregon. Great chap gave it to me gratis. I still have my antenna up for @Patcon . In preparing to redo my carburetors I discovered a few things. First I have E46 intake manifolds and 3-screw round top SU installed. As I understand it, the Jan 71 car came with 4-screw carburetors (thanks all who educated me here) attached to the E46 manifolds. I do have a pair of those in the parts box (likely the originals). I am pretty sure it does not matter for the rebuild, but in looking at the carbs I notice what seems to be a fair bit of lateral play in the throttle shafts. I think I will try and get on the wait list for one of ZTherapy's rebuilds and have them do a pair of the 4-screws units. There is no real rush with this however as the wait is half a year and the transmission has revealed to be in some degree of escalating protest. When the clutch is released in neutral, the FS5W71B makes a sound that can only be identified as unhappy bearing(s). I have done what I can in ordering parts (before opening and verifying) from anywhere I could find them. I predominantly used the parts list accredited to @EuroDat but also seen widely around the internet. For all parts I ordered everything I could from NissanPartsDeal . com. The rebuild kit with Japanese Nachi bearings, front and rear seals and brass baulk rings from Transmission Parts Distributors. It appears to be the same kit as ones offered by Zstore and the like, but for a significant fraction of the price. I ordered the rear tailshaft bushing from OmegaMachine (#71411) and the selector seal from veryseal . com (TC 14X20X4.5 Metric Nitrile Oil Seal). I ordered some o-rings from Amazon and the rest of the needle bearings and detent/return springs I ordered from Japan through Amayama, (we'll see if they exist and if they arrive). In the meantime I am reading everything I can from this wonderful site, _FS5W71 Rebuild.pdf from Derek Garnier, and a whole host of youtube videos in addition to the factory service manual. I have rebuilt plenty of spinning things with bearings and gears but never a transmission. I do love an adventure but love it even more when a plan comes together. EDIT (07/18): The transmission kit arrived and full of Nachi bearings, but not one from Japan (sigh). They will likely work better than the ones installed now however.

@jfa.series1 That makes sense. It does have a FS5W71B close ratio from a 1980 280ZX (according to records.) The previous owner (brother) swapped it from the FS5W71B wide-ratio that the previous-previous owner (father) had installed. In one of the pics you can see the 280ZX shift boot and plate that I replaced with a 240Z unit. i was not aware that the 1971 and 1972 had any real significant change in center console shifter positioning. I do recall the boots are different size so that must account for it. Thanks for that tidbit. I will do some research on choke cables as the ones currently installed are rubbing some of the paint off the inside of the hood.

I stopped by the car today and confirmed it does have E46 intake manifolds. That would mean the 4-screw units that are bagged were probably original. Another question would there be any reason to change the choke cables with a carb change of this sort? The car has a 1972 dash and center console installed. Would one need to change the choke cables for that console? Thanks again and much appreciation for all the help as I navigate a steep learning curve of nuance.

Thank you Cap'n and jfa, that is useful information. I will look and see what is on the car. There was a 72 in the mix that became a parts donor after a fit of adolescent driving. That date tracks.

Hello everyone. This is prompted by an email exchange with ZTherapy regarding replacement carburetors. I asked: "I have the set originally installed on the car (01/1971) complete with linkage. These carbs are 3 screw and have fuel float bowl drain plugs. I also have another set of 4 screw carbs. I believe I would want to stay with the 3 screw units that are original with the car but would be willing to make a change if there were some significant advantage to the 4 screw units." ZTherapy: "Depending on which intake manifold you have on your car determines which carbs to go with. A 01/1971 car would have come with 4 screws(?). What number is on your manifold? An E46 is 4 screw, E88 is 3 screw." My 1/1971 240z has an E31 head (original as far as I understand) with 3-screw round top SU carburetors. This car was purchased new by my father but my brother has his hands on it for several years. As far as anyone (father and myself) can attest the long block is unchanged. It is entirely possible that it had carburetors swapped (I do have a pair of 4-screw round top SU's in the extra parts boxes amassed by my brother) but nothing was indicated in the documentation left behind. My brother did document the installation of a 6-1 header and thread insert for a damaged exhaust stud in the head. There was a plan to do an L28 block with a P90 head (still have the head) but it did not manifest before the car was abandoned. I will send ZTherapy both sets of carbs but am wondering which to ask for in return, the 3-screw or the 4-screw. I am inclined to ask for the 3-screw. A secondary idea is to try and sell a pair (-4-screw) of the carbs on the open market in an attempt to gain a little more cash to offset the carburetor purchase (ZTherapy would pay $150 for the core without center linkage). I do like the idea of them having more stock to work with as I feel they provide a valuable service. There is a 6 month backlog currently and I have a 5-speed to rebuild in the interim so there is no particular urgency. Any thoughts? Cheers. -R

And then the transmission worked happily ever after... Thanks for the great read everyone.

@Seppi72 @Patcon Thank you so much for the comments and suggestions. I do know the "raw gas smell" well. The plastic evap tank that was standard has been replaced with a later metal can. Combined with new hoses this had remedied that odor. I think I am going to do a rear (series 1) vent delete. I will leave the physical vents on the deck but completely seal the holes (vent and drain) in addition to the interior rubber flappy thing. Good tip about that CO sensor. I am still paying my brain off (student loans) so I have some mileage yet to get out of the old noodle. I did look at the tail housings and they seemed fairly straight. A bead of the goop might be in order however to be sure. Thanks again.

@AZ-240z These are the best pics I have seen yet (as in never before seen). I am aware of the rear "smugglers bin" storage points on the later 240z cars and the split nature of the rear carpet. I have already conceded that I will not be able to find a single rear carpet set that is correct for the car and cargo straps (sigh). This will not be a concourse car as it already has a 1972 dash (clean without cracks) and matching 1972 center console. I have also put on 1972 front marker lights because they were in much better shape than mine and they have full rubber boots. I would love to get as much floor coverage as possible and your pics really help. Beautiful by the way! Cheers

Today I buttoned the Z back up for the drive to 7'th Annual Datsun Swap Meet and Gathering. The project included trying to not succumb to carbon monoxide poisoning before making it there. I will be taking my father (the original owner of the Zed) and would like him to not expire on the trip. The plan was to replace the rear deck inner seal in an attempt to eliminate reduce the amount of exhaust coming into the cabin, I purchased the seal offered by The Z Car Depot and installed it. I also replaced the outer seal with a one piece seal from MSA. After waiting through the cure time and reattaching the rear deck lid, the outer seal was too thick to allow the door to close anywhere near making contact with the new inner seal. I had an easy 1/4" of air space between the left rear corner of the inner seal and the tailgate. If I removed the lower portion of the outer seal, (up to the point of the original 3-piece early seal) it almost sat in contact with the inner seal. My latch is adjusted all the way down to its tightest position. The rear inner weatherstrip is just not thick enough to make a seal. I know the Silvermine Motors offers a thick non-OEM inner hatch seal and that might be the ticket. I honestly can't figure how or why a standard replacement seal would be so far off from actually making a seal on this car. I can verify its entire history as straight and clean. The left (driver) side is a little higher than the right (passenger) side but I have attributed that to having a single hydraulic lift on that side. In the mean time, I have added a 1/4" neoprene seal to the lower underside of the tailgate to bridge the gap and it seems to be working. I still get fumes in the car if I open the windows while driving but it is much better than before. I can't smell anything if the windows are closed with the fan on so I am at least good to go there. The car has new rear tail light gaskets and being a series one, also has new inner vent flap rubber. I will completely block the inner tailgate venting system similar to how door cards are sealed with plastic and butyl adhesive but have run out of time for now. The exhaust fumes are a real downer to enjoying the old dog on the road.

Wow @AZ-240z those pieces don't look anything like what I have seen anywhere. They look pretty good, far better than I think I could produce. Thank you for the pics and helping expand my understanding!

Thanks @Patcon Did you get a price and what it will cover? I have not read favorable reviews of the S30 kit. Many seem to laude it, citing that is was the supplier for the Nissan restoration project in the 1990's, IDK...

Thanks @cgsheen1 That is helpful for understanding the quality. I am really hoping someone can add information about the early vertical tool boxes and fitment. Cheers

Hello everyone. I have been reading about carpet kits for months now and am not really any closer to feeling confident about moving forward. I have a Jan/1971 car with the rear vertical plastic tool box covers. I would like as much carpet for the floor as possible but will retain the diamond vinyl tunnel, side sill and rear towers. I do read about some differences between the rear tool box fitment but honestly cant tell which is specific for my car based on the photos of the kits. For example MSA (The Z Store) mentions, "Please inspect your floors prior to ordering. This carpet kit is designed to fit early style floors (vertical tool doors); however, we have seen some early models with late style floors and late models with early floors (especially on 1971 models). The easiest way to tell is by confirming which style tool doors your car has. Early and late kits are not interchangeable with each other." Does the "vertical" tool door carpet cover the plastic doors or does it mount underneath and leave the doors exposed? I would love to find a fully covering kit that does not require stitching and/or edging to be finished. I am also looking for the original "loop" style in black. With the exception of the MSA kit which has no pictures, all the other 5-piece sets seem to be the same set. The 7-piece sets all appear to be the same as well. Are there really just 2 suppliers and possibly a unique MSA 5-piece set that fits differently for the "vertical" tool boxes? Five piece kits MSA (The Z Store) - Sectional Carpet Kit, Loop, 70-Early 71 240Z StockInteriors.com - 1970-1973 Datsun 240Z Cut and Sewn Carpet, Complete Kit Ocautocarpets.com - 1970-1973 Nissan 240Z 5 piece set Loop Seven piece kits Newarkauto - 1970-73 Datsun 240Z Complete Auto Carpet Kit Resurrectedclassics - 1970-1974 Datsun 240z 260z Complete carpet kit OEM Style ZCarDepot - Carpet Kit Set 240Z 260Z 70-74 Other Mentions Chester and Herod Auto Carpets Datsun Spirit, Inc. Thank everyone

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I think I would do the whole hinge in TPU and use some epoxy down the surface of the hinge faces to increase rigidity. If you are going to print the cover PETG would be much more forgiving than PLA. Nice drawing @Patcon , you definitely up-leveled mine. You probably already know this but if you rename your attached picture from 20260608_182404 to something like "Datsun 240z tool cover hinge measurements" it will come up on google image searches and link back to the site. This will help exposure and undoubtedly a wider audience.

My original ones are out of the car sitting on the shelf if necessary.

@w3wilkes I have been doing this (pulling from base) since I learned to drive with this car. 👍 Over the years the handles have been broken inadvertently from cables getting slowly too sticky, getting caught on clothing/bags, improper use, etc. I don't even use the handle any more. I had though at some point an entity would have come up with a nice little billet handle or something. Thanks

Hello everyone. I have not had much luck in finding anything like a metal choke handle (knob). Has anyone ever come across something like this in the past? Thanks

Thanks. That is not a bad idea. I was thinking of maybe CLR but I read that it is not suitable for chromium oxide, (assuming that is what is deposited). I will try vinegar or a baking soda paste as I loathe the odor of vinegar. Trying to avoid dropping $70+ on vents as there are many other things vying for an ever decreasing pot of money. Cheers

I realize this is long past but it is the closest topic I could find to my green dash (eyeball) vent issue. I am trying to find information on cleaning the green "Corrosion?" without physically polishing because I cannot get into the smaller spaces. I just happened to notice that this thread never has its ultimate question answered, "if anyone knows or could measure the 240z version, that would be sweet." Well, if someone else comes by the 240z vent measurements are roughly 78mmx30mm Below is the 240z vent with green deposits.

Just so I understand. You cannot find any 3mm screws anywhere? I have ordered those from www.monsterbolts.com before.

The previous owner never installed the series 2 interior in the car. Everything was there, but just siting there. I decided to tackle a little bit of this job. It started by removing the heater controls. I could not adjust them and as the temperature is creeping up with the onset of the North American summer I wanted to address that. All the cables were in dire need of cleaning and lubricating as were the levers and mechanisms / After some time and elbow grease it as smooth as I can remember it ever being. Since the heater controls were out, I thought it might be a good time to switch all the instrument bulbs to LED. This first image is with one of the center gauges installed with a green LED. The image below is with a white bulb and darker space (different exposure) Both green bulbs and white bulbs are dimmable (with some incandescent installed) While waiting for the last of the cluster LED to arrive (red and blue) I tackled the shifter inner boot and console mounting. I also decided to use one of the MSA choke mounts as my cables are very stiff (feels like a forever problem) and removing the plastic mount sounded like a good idea. Since mine is a series one car it had the bucket style inner shift boot originally. this was removed when the hole was cut larger for the FS5W71B - Close ration 5-speed from 1980 280ZX. At that time, the owner used the 280ZX inner boot and shift bezel combined with the outer accordion shift boot from the same donor. I found a series 2 (and later) shift boot (torn) and bezel in the boxes of goodies so I decided to size it up and install it. I made some extra calculations for the choke mount and had to dry fit it several times to be sure. Since I don't have any of the mounting holes I had to put together the locations from internet pictures (a reason I am posting these now). I was about to drill the mounting points and thought to check inside the tunnel for punctur-able bits. I am glad I did because the upper right part of the tunnel is chock-o-block full of fluid filled hard lines. Thankfully where I needed to mount was just clear of danger. Below is a picture of the MSA tunnel mounted choke assembly. Get a load of the wire wrapped around the two cables. Wonder why that is there...? I suppose I could take it off and find out, (eventually). It seems to all fit together well and function like it should. I did also upgrade my non-bushing shift setup to one with brass bushings. Wow, what a differnce. I also made some surgical grinds to teh shift lever to hopefully prevent it from popping out of reverse. The transmission now makes a completely different sound when engaging reverse. Good sign I think. As I think about carpet and padding, one of the bits I cannot seem to locate is the jack hold-down. A surprisingly challenging little bit to track down.

I have also tried this as well as creating a new account. I have never been anything but BANNED. I have never actually logged in successfully once. I went straight from first time create account to verify email to BANNED.