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I’ve mentioned it some many times in the past about replacing each and every connector on the EFI harness and cleaning each connection in that arena. You will be amazed at the corrosion that you find on each connector and the wire itself. I had to shorten some wire by over an inch before I could find wiring that was suitable to crimp/solder.

Photos are of the original N33 exhaust manifold I removed from my 73. Replaced it with an earlier one when I went to round top carbs. I confirm you need a different downpipe. I was able to swap my 73 downpipe for an earlier one.

Easy test, take the ballast RESISTOR out of the equation: Take the G/W wire OFF the ballast, hook it up to the B/W that's connected to the other end of the ballast. Run the engine. Is it better? Is it worse? Don't notice a change at all? (Better: leave the ballast out - figure a good way to connect the G/W and B/W permanently cuz VOLTAGE. Worse: hook it back up the way it was. No diff: Hook it back up the way it was - if you're sure there was no change.) (I haven't said yet what I'd really recommend which is: replace all your harness wiring, especially the engine bay harness which suffers the most degradation over 50+ years of living on this Earth... Few people listen - even me - I'm just barely doing that in my own car (and it turned 50 last year).)

Hi Site Been a while….not sure, but whatever adds .080 inches….if they are .040 inches, 2 would do. Don’t hesitate to call Eiji….tell him you’re my cousin and if wants to keep eating steak at our house, he needs to be nice! 🤪 He’ll sell you the right stuff.

O.P., you should probably pull a spark plug or six and see if (how much) they are sooted up. The Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) on an EFI engine is "vacuum referenced" or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) referenced. Meaning it has a hose connection to the intake manifold. The FPR is supposed to maintain a fairly constant fuel pressure differential with the manifold pressure. Nissan uses 2.5 BAR or 36.3 PSI as the required differential. That means WITH the engine NOT RUNNING and fuel pump RUNNING the pressure to the fuel rail and injectors should ~36.3 PSI. When the engine IS running, the FPR will SUBTRACT the manifold pressure while under VACUUM or ADD the manifold pressure if under boost (positive manifold pressure). You don't need to consider boost. But, say you have 10 PSI of VACUUM while the engine is running at idle, your pressure at the fuel rail and injectors should be ~26.3 PSI (36.3 - 10 PSI). First: The ECU DOES NOT get the "tach signal" - that circuit if for the GAUGE ONLY. It is pointless to look for it. The Electronic Ignition Module figures out when to send a signal for the coil to fire - it gets the information from the distributor electronics (pretty sure - I haven't handled the original Bosch L-Jetronic for a blue moon...) Second: Have you tried operating the engine WITHOUT the cold start valve? Disconnected from wiring and/or fuel? (IS your engine only running on the cold start fuel??)

Hi - I read this : "Whatever you're writing in your messages must be something he's avoiding." 1) assumption without proof that I'm avoiding him 2) Insinuation that there is a sinister reason I'm avoiding him "must be'' Any reason he would be avoiding you? 3) Insinuation that there is a sinister reason I'm avoiding him reinforced Not a good look for him if there's no good reason. 4) Negative prediction and quite frankly pointless statement - I don't ignore anybody, who would ? Help, where ? Tagging me here wouldn't if I was avoiding him here.....which I wasn't ! Why DM a guy who doesn't respond to a customer's messages? I implied DM the enquirer, in this case texasz, with your opinions w/out facts rather than imply publicly what you did - that's not helping my business nor the potentiel customers' confidence - please think. Have a great day now - it's past ! :-)

If you do get the engine running well, replace all of the old fuel lines on the rail and the injectors before too much driving. I smelled gasoline on mine one day while driving and when I opened the hood a tiny stream of gasoline shot by me on to the sidewalk. They dry out and crack lengthwise. The small stuff will eat up a lot of your time but it's worth it once you're done.

The engine can run off puddled fuel in the intake manifold. If the injectors were opening the engine would continue to run. cgcheen's suggestion about testing with a 9 volt battery was a good one. You can run separate jumper wires if you don't have an EV1 connector. With a 9 volt alkaline battery you don't have to worry about melting wires if you accidentally short them. You'll hear a click when you connect the 9 volts, if they're opening. Also, with 9 volts you can leave the voltage connected while you tap them. You'll have the solenoid pulling them open if you can get them to break loose. Pin 1 at the ECU is the ignition signal that the ECU uses to monitor engine RPM. It's connected to the negative terminal of the coil. It should read battery voltage with the key on. But it also needs a certain type of voltage pulse. There are things that can screw it up. You're making great progress.

I almost made a comment about AI. It's basically a better Google search. But that's about it.

I understand that, AI is a smorgasbord of articles massaged into one. He mentioned he was searching AI. The reason why I asked the question.

I've been stuck on this album for a couple of weeks now. I'll put on something else and after that finishes I'll say to myself... Let's give John Hiatt - Walk On another play.

How long since a new fuel filter up front on the passenger's side? Sounds awful familiar of a clogged up tank. You can run a hose before the pump to a gas can to bypass the tank as an easy test

Close up any vacuum leaks to the intake system. All air has to pass through the AFM so the computer knows how much fuel to add. And the big screw with the wide washer head on the throttle body is the idle speed screw. It lets air past the throttle blade. You can adjust it by hand to raise idle speed while you troubleshoot.