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After replacing the insanely expensive cracked windshield in our 2025 Mazda CX-70 next week, I’m going straight to a shop to get Tera Shield installed on it. ZRAuto. Claims its three layers, clear for ever, blah blah blah. No idea about price yet. If it saves me one windshield it will pay for itself. That’s the brand the place I’m going to uses. I’ve looked online, and found a couple of retailers selling DIY kits in the $200 USD price range. Might try the DIY stuff on the Datsun just to say I did it.

I was quoted C$240 for the windshield film, installed. This was on top of the paint protection film work. Very reasonable.

Shimming the entire crossmember downwards creates a problem because it won't squish the front control arm bushings to hold them in place. It might be possible, but you would have to shim where the crossmember clamps those bushings as well. After thinking about options for a few days, I ended up grabbing a later front diff isolator (I had a spare) and modifying it. I flipped it around to work with my differential which is in the stock position (not moved back like the 72 model). I didn't take many pictures, but basically, I cut off the ears, flipped them over and swapped sides. I was very careful to tack and position them level to each other and in an adjusted (and equal) front to rear orientation. The net result was to lower the differential at this mount location by nearly 1/4", and to remove some of the angle that was manufactured into it. For the propeller shaft, I replaced the front yoke with a new one and got a local shop to balance it. I painted it and the mount: After installing both, and placing spacers between the body and the transmission crossmember, I took some angle measurements: pinion flange, crankshaft dampener, driveshaft tube in that order: I would have liked to have lowered the front of the differential a bit more, but the diff housing was nearly touching top plate of the diff isolator. And, I would have to add a much thicker spacer between the body and the transmission crossmember to get it down to 88.2. The bolts are quite long though, so maybe I will. Now the not so good news. There seems to be quite a large amount of movement of the new transmission yoke inside the tail of the transmission. I am concerned that the bushing in the tail shaft is excessively worn. This picture was concerning when I saw it. Maybe because of excessive wear in the bushing in the tail of the transmission, my driveshaft with improper u-joint angularity was vibrating around much more that it should have. I'll need to check for a wear specification. The 240SX transmission I the one thing on this whole car that I did not fully rebuild! Ugh!

I don't recall seeing any yellow double wire clamps on the car originally - hoops or otherwise, at least not yellow like the plating we see today. I was at Caffeine and Octane and a couple of guys who used to plate stuff as their business commented on my yellow chromate /zinc plating. They said something about how difficult it is to replicate the original yellow plating because the chemicals are different or something like that. They said we all have to put up with the 'really yellow' plating we have now. I am unsure of the accuracy of that statement. Others, especially original owners, should chime in here if possible, but my recommendation would be to go with clear zinc for all the hose clamps on the car because if you go with yellow chromate, you'll almost certainly end up with a much more yellow color than anything you see that originally had a very slight yellow tint. With my examination of the hardware on my car I found few if any exceptions to: clear zinc: all JIS (cross in the head) screws all clamps coil bracket spare tire hold down door latches and catches some lock washer and flat washers - as used with JIS screws I believe the hardware list I uploaded has the color listed. It is not exhaustive, but it is extensive.

The redneck way is to use a long piece of hose. I took a different direction. I went a 0-30 from this brand: https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/elite-10-color-100-psi-fuel-pressure-gauge/ If you want a cheaper alternative: (Wrong part removed) https://www.ebay.com/itm/176895594944?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818143230%26meid%3D5a579eb1d3964f638fde15fc3eb8a2e0%26pid%3D101224%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D176367258697%26itm%3D176895594944%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWebV9BertRefreshRankerWithCassiniEmbRecall&_trksid=p2332490.c101224.m-1 I can't vouch for the quality, though.

The fuel pressure gauge should go between the fuel filter and the fuel rail.

I'm only considering this to give some protection for my brand new OE windshield. I won't normally be driving in the rain so I'm not worried about the wipers scratching the film. Even if I have to replace it in a few years I will have a little peace of mind when I go on road trips.

I would think plastic film, regardless of material, would be more prone to being scratched than glass. The mohs hardness scale (used to describe hardness of minerals) lists glass as 6.5 out of 10. A steel knife is 5.5. This means that glass can scratch steel but not the other way around. Unfortunately quartz is 7 so if you are at the beach, be carful how you wipe the sand off your windshield. Sorry for the earth science lesson, I'm a retired geologist.

Long time not on here... I had a TON of trouble figuring out how to install them on my 75 Z since the instructions sucked. It is slightly different and I had some other custom parts, but I took this assembly stack picture to document how I put mine together... hope this help.

For best life and to minimize vibration, drivelines should operate at a slight angle, and not be perfectly inline. The small angle is to ensure that all of the needle bearings will see load and rotate. When I design drivelines for industrial applications I use about 2 degrees of parallel misalignment. That said the likelihood of an automotive driveline being perfectly aligned is probably zero.