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So I have a Harbor Freight blast cabinet. It is probably 15 years old or older. I have wanted to do the Tacoma Company upgrades to it for years but I've never pulled the trigger because the timing was always bad. I finally bought the pieces last month. https://www.tacomacompany.com/ The original cabinet Cut the bars out from under the frame New funnel adapter on bottom of the cabinet Drilled a hole in the left leg for a new air regulator Two new holes for the air and media for the gun Regulator Cut the lower shelf back New box that covers the air intake on the left side of the cabinet Air flow is reversed in this new setup I had to silicone the screws at the glove cuffs because the static from the cabinet would shock the fool out of you Cut the spring steel screen down and wrapped it with metal screening to prevent little parts falling down in the cabinet Added a foot pedal for the cabinet versus a hand trigger New gloves inside and a fresh piece of glass I have a switch on top that cuts the LED's on in the cabinet and start a vacuum that sits outside the shop door I finally got the air all hooked up today. It's a totally different cabinet now!! I can see and it cuts really quickly. I have some new Bufferfly screws for a quick change glass setup

Certainly not S30-related, anyway. The 'early' E4100 fog lamp switch is a two pin NILES unit in the same 'flip' format as the Hazard flasher switch. It has a graphic on it rather than a letter. Here's a pair of them being used as fuel pump switches:

Glad you got it worked out. Perfect timing. I'll be posting a new version with the changes to the rear lights soon. You can plot out the new one then.

Wow! No kidding you've been busy!!

I used this stuff to fix my broken console. Used it on the bottom side mainly and smoothed out the excess on the top side with fine sandpaper. Turned out good and is still holding up. That was 2015. There's other "strengths" too.

Looks like SteelStik. https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick

I don't think that they are heat-treated to be "springy". I remember straightening the bends out of the ones that I had. They definitely make a difference. I tried the various treatments and greases but only reinstallng the straightened/flattened shims solved the problem.

Assuming you could find a suitable stainless, I think it would work just fine. I think the rust you often see on them comes from the non-stainless parts that come into contact with the shims, not the shims themselves. In other words, I don't think the shims are rusted at all... I think that rust is just mechanically transferred onto them by rubbing against other rusty parts. @Patcon, are the shims magnetic?

Yes, it's bakelite.. sand some out of that hole in the ashtray, collect the material you sanded off and mix it with some polyester, use this to make the hole in the ashtray. Maybe you have something else made of black bakelite and use that to make the polyester black? Perhaps there is a kneadable substance that you can get black, or make with the bakelite. (I know of BISON has a kneadable 2 component material that gets very hard and is dark grey.

I wonder if Skillard might consider making reproductions of those.

Wow, you have been busy!

I have the precision door weatherstrips. I have had them for probably 10 years. I tried one of them today. That's gonna be a no go!!! I did eventually slam the door hard enough to get it to latch but it still won't sit flush to car. I will order the S30 weatherstrips this weekend

I got a new battery last weekend for Lily and a new battery frame I pulled together some pieces that need to be chromed. We'll see what these parts cost to get chromed There is a company in Australia that can make keys from codes or pictures. I got a price of about $40 for 2 new keys plus freight. On a whim I called my local locksmith to see if they could cut a key from a code. He could. so I took some Nissan blanks I had and he cut me two keys for like $22 I wanted to get a new key and be sure when I keyed them that the new key would work the rekeyed locks. It's good I did becoaul the new key wouldn't work the locked I already rekeyed. I also stripped a door latch for plating I also reworked the floor vents with new foam. 2mm foam on the flaps and some 6mm foam around the edges After the glue set, I trimmed these back

Update: Cranking down the final injector clamp (ended up using a 1/4 inch socket with a u-joint, and an extension. The car doesn't smell anymore and the sniffer isn't picking anything up. I tested the device just to be sure by opening the fuel door and it smelled fumes by the gas cap (I didn't remove the locking gas cap). Looks like case closed 🙂 - thanks all!