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I bought some of this yellow paint to see if it might be close to the stuff that was used in the original assembly line. It was inexpensive, so I thought I would have a look. Lighting is a big factor in the look from a picture. But here is an original fastener with paint that is in pretty good condition, along with a fastener that I dipped into the new paint. My skin color is darker in the picture of the new paint, which tells me the lighting is darker. I also took a picture in another room (kitchen) with different lighting. It looks reasonably close in the pictures, but I think is a bit "lighter" than the original paint.

And where the EGR tube connects to the intake manifold. Mine came loose and rotted a hole in the aluminum.

A new thought - maybe the front-back firing caused a vacuum leak. Split a hose, blew a gasket, popped an injector seal. I'd check those, maybe even try the propane or carb cleaner test (don't start a fire). Don't forget the PCV hose under the intake manifold.

I think the throttle issue is related to the bellcrank on the firewall under the hood. On my 74 I noticed the the angle from the bellcrank to the auxiliary throttle shaft was somewhat extreme, so I cut the upper arm off a spare bellcrank and welded it on higher up on the tube. This reduced the angle to the throttle shaft and made it a little easier to control the application. I got this idea looking at an early 240 bellcrank.

Front-firing is a good term for what happens when the system is running lean. That's where the noise is, in the intake manifold. Many of us have had the problem, it seems to be because of fuel changing since the seventiies or electronic component "drift". But it's common enough that people like Blue/240/260/280 have written up ways to fix it. It's a real thing. The fix easier than it seems. Hardest part is finding a potentiometer. Find the bullet connectors on the coolant temperature sensor circuit and insert the potentiomemter. Turn the knob until it runs right. Might be that you've been on the edge or maybe there's something in the ECU that fails and it finally happened to yours. Who knows. But the fix is simple and will tell you something. Linked above.

Snapchat-1653938150.mp4 Snapchat-1782700663.mp4

Its making noise!! Thats a milestone for sure. You may want to check the connectors in the passenger footwell that feed the dash. I had a wire that had backed out of the connector and even though the connector was plugged in the wires weren't connected. I think I have a large laminated wiring diagram if that might help, let me know and I can send it to you.

We started the car today!! Didn't require Ether and it's being fed off a temp fuel source but it runs!! Lots of electrical issues still. I figured out where the 2 of the 4 wires at the coil go. I have 2 left. I'm not sure what to do with them. I believe the Green one feeds the Tach which is currently INOP. I could use help with that so I don't damage anything

I'm glad you figured it out. You look like your old self again.

I got it figured out . I found my old email address and was able to sign in as Madkaw

Your quote....Since it's an electric pump it will either work or it won't and not become weaker, correct?" I'm supprised no one else responded to this question. A few years ago I replaced my 260's pump because it wasn't running well and the fuel pressure was reading too low. I don't remember how low but it was much lower that FSM spec. I used a new Nissan pump and it restored the pressure to spec and my problem was resolved. My two cents.