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Might as well check the condenser before you get too far along. It should have "OL" from the wire to the condenser body metal. No continuity. You can also measure capacitance if you have the right meter but it's not commonly done. And .020 is your point gap. It should determine the dwell on a new cam but a dwell measurement is more precise. It's measured in degrees with a dwell meter. As the cam wears the dwell could change. Mechanical ignition systems are more complex than they seem. Kind of amazing that they work like they do at high RPM. Here's a pretty good article from Pertronix. https://pertronixbrands.com/blogs/product-higlights/understanding-ignition-dwell?srsltid=AfmBOooVjLx4762Zc7UGTaiEOiTUuhwututQ4aKVsDB2ZJPHPywx_gMZ

Following up to thank everyone for their assistance. I was away from the garage for a month with a hip replacement. I did go ahead and replace both valve seals in cylinders 3 and 6 as they were the obvious places to start. It actually made no difference. A couple of things I learned in that process (1) filling the cylinder with rope and then turning the cam just a bit further to TDC was a great suggestion (2) whacking a spark plug socket set on top of the spring unit is a very effective way of releasing the keepers and (3) removing the rope after reassembling the spring makes it a lot easier to reinstall the rocker. After doing those with no benefit, I was pretty much resigned to getting professional help with the rings. I decided to try soaking the pistons for 36 hours with Berryman 12 and then, as they direct for an engine flush, I added about 10 ounces to the oil through the dipstick tube and then ran at idle for about 15 minutes. I then changed the oil and filter. I took it for a 100 mile ride. Checking the oil afterward, it had used a half quart, not great but an improvement. I then changed the oil and filter again to make sure all the Berryman was out but this time, used 10W-40 instead of 10W-30. I've now driven the car 200 miles since this last oil change and have used no more than a couple ounces of oil, if any, and no smoke. I have to assume I had one or more oil control rings stuck in the two years it was off the road for the fuel injection rebuild. I'm guessing, as it's been driven more this year than it has in the last 5 years combined and its been improving in oil usage over the summer, and maybe with the Berryman help, that the ring(s) broke loose and started to function correctly again. Anything I'm missing? Thanks again. New question...In the following photo of the plugs today. Plugs 3 and 6 are still dark compared to the others where the ceramic still is white. All the plugs were changed at the last oil change so I assume I have a second issue of imbalanced air/fuel mixture. There has always been carbon buildup on the back bumper. Is this an injector issue? They are Standard brand and all new. Would a temperature range change on those two spark plugs be a thought? All the usual culprits like AFM, Temp Sensor, etc. would seem to be across the board items not individual cylinders but what do I know.. Any thoughts would be great. Right now I'm just thrilled that the oil problem seems to be fixed. Thanks again to everyone.

Like this?

Similar to my problem. Could not figure out why it wouldn't hit right off then after pulling my few hairs out I realized the lid screws were loose and the float bowls were evaporating themselves dry. Add another to my simple problems that I over looked. I would be a terrible doctor but the insurance companies would love it.

Wasn't sure, so I did a search and found this 🙂 "Yes, dielectric grease can be used on a distributor cam. Silicone dielectric grease can be used to lubricate the cam lobe rubbing block contact on a distributor, and it can also be used to seal electrical connections and ensure conductivity. Some recommend re-lubing the cam lobe rubbing block contact every 3,000 miles."

That is all correct. If absolute accuracy matters to you, the spade for the wire hook up points upwards instead of to the side originally. Be sure to put the correct lube on the distributor cam if you have not already done so.

You don't like the four lug wheel options?