Leaderboard

Got the base plate in, and the smaller plate. I only cut exactly 1.5" off the bottom of the studs, so it was a bitch to get that in under the studs. The large sledge helped. Under foam barrier & butyl Funky piece to fit the corner. Had to shave 1/4 off the whole piece to clear the existing concrete, then used the router to cut a step that tucks under the cross plate, as did the original After that was fitted, I added an extension to the 2x4 plate, then a 7" section of 4x4 to repair the corner post, then a similar length for the visible stud that abuts it. New siding for the 3rd run, Concrete backer for the lower 10" Covered with Protecto-wrap, this stuff sticks to anything. Now I can put up the last pegboard, move everything back , and get moving on the V8 conversion for my Volvo truck.

FOLLOW UP ON SERVICE: Here is a follow up on using Jay Zinc to rebuild my 2 turn signal switches and the hazard switch for my 73 240z. I am thrilled with not only his service, but also the response, keeping me consistently updated and his price. I send him two turn signal switches. One was in ok shape but wasn't working and the other looked like a disaster with broken handle, cut & missing wires, missing connectors etc. His prices vary depending on the work he is doing, and repairs/parts needed. On the terrible TS I opted for a full show restoration ($380) and for the one that just wasn't working, a general rehab and refurbishment ($150). I had him do the same on the hazard switch ($150). They look like brand new. He sent photos as his work progressed and highlighted defects before and after. Took him roughly a week to do all three items. he even sent me a choice of carriers and prices for shipping them back. Highly recommend him (thanks Jim Arnett for recommending him). I asked Jay for a list of services and here is his response. Contact him on Facebook under his name: Jay Zinc I'm limited to the 1970-78 Datsun Z/Nissan Fairlady Z for all dash switches. I can also restore/service center console switches (rear defrost, parking lamp, choke, etc) really any switches. As for pricing, it varies slightly depending on year/condition of the switch. I typically say "contact me for a quote".

I would install everything untinted to avoid scratches during installation. After everything is installed, keep the door cards and window trims off the car. You can take it to a shop and they'll be able to install just fine. Once they are done you can drive it home and install the remaining parts without fear of scratching.

Almost everyone says you need a ZX 15/16" master or a Wilwood BUT I use the stock 7/8" and have since I did the vented rotor / S12W swap several years ago. My youngest son did the same swap at the same time but used the ZX master. I can tell a slight difference between the two. This was after a NASA weekend on stock brakes... I first tried the 4-piston swap on my stock rotors. MINOR upgrade which I was disappointed with. That led to the vented rotor swap which led to Porterfield friction front and rear. I do quite a bit of mountain driving. The turbo Z is uphill monster and these brakes don't fade on the downhill partly because of the rotors, mostly because of the improved pads and shoes. If you use 300ZX vented rotors, a spacer for the rotor is unavoidable as are the vented rotor calipers. The simplest route would be new stock rotors and Toyota 4-Pistons for solid rotors with some decent pads...

I would tint after install. A good tint shop aught to be able to trim right at the gasket accurately enough. Also if the tint needs changing you can remove it all and replace. And also for the reasons you have expressed