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Thanks for the tips - keep them coming please! Yesterday evening, I ran into quite the puzzle of an issue. Tonight, I remained stumped for quite a while but I think I figured out what the problem is. So... I installed the driver side window glass last night. Like @jfa.series1, I could not put the window in without taking the frame out. No big deal, as I just put that in, so easy to take out. I put the window in and then the front guide, then the regulator, then the rear guide. Immediately, I ran into problems with getting the window to move up and down without excessive force. Things were not happy. I fiddled with adjusting the front and rear guides for quite a while. Nothing was helping. And with the window at full up, one of the wheels for the regulator was coming out of the track. I quit for the night, but kept thinking about the wheel coming out of the track at full up position, and the difficulty. I also found this in the archive, and read it before I went to bed. Today, I went to work pulling everything back out of the door. I had thoughts that perhaps the front guide was bent or worn, and perhaps some part or parts of my window are from a later car. The article gave me that idea. I should have just checked the window first, because that is looking like my issue, but I messed around with comparing guides and regulators from both sides of the car for quite a while first. Here are the etchings on the glass for the left and right sides respectively: Given this thread from @kats I think my left side door window assembly is from 9/1975. I am not quite sure how to read the one for the right side door window, but I believe it is indicating 4/1971 for my 6/71 car. Taking some measurements, there are clearly differences in the metal stampings that hold the glass and that the regulator works in conjunction with. So, for now, I am calling the replacement door window my problem. So, do I need to source another window, or just another window support structure? I will see what I can find. A few more pics of other progress: By the way, the factory door sill threshold screws are aluminum. Middle pic shows the slight difference between the original sill plates and the reproduction ones. The reproduction one is on the bottom below two new original ones. The "DATSUN" is not as pronounced.

A shaker siphon is a better idea!

I learned my lesson after many mouthfuls of fuel. Now I use a longer hose.

Back on there roofing a bit - set the roofing for a 2" overhang into the gutter Used OSI Quad calk for the flashing started putting the steel roofing on. Foam under the flashing, buytl under the panel overlap. The foam is uneven thickness - I used the EPDM screws to pull it down more evenly. Home Depot had some (2) 4x8' siding sheets cheap (70% off), due to damaged overlap edge - worked for me for the backside of the end panel

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas! Oh and BTW people, turns out unleaded doesn’t taste very nice and makes your lips / gums burn!! I was trying to drain the fuel tank using a siphon hand pump that wasn’t working - so I had a genius idea!!! Why don’t I suck on the pipe? Being a clear pipe I can see the fuel coming and would be able to quickly remove my mouth at the right moment to point the hose into the fuel can. What could possibly go wrong? 😳 Doh!

I started on the hood today, I dread doing the inside of the hood, all the little curves and angles make it the hardest panel. Nobody even notices it unless it is done badly. I'll strip the outside of the hood tomorrow, looks like I have a surprise waiting for me.

EPDM washer screws finally came (after Amazon first sent a "Baby Alive" doll) - so hopefully next week I can get back to that. My wife & I are in Baltimore for a few days out of town, the trip was delayed yesterday morning when we heard the sump pump screaming - ld dead pump. -lasted about 10 years new pump installed, also from Home Depot. Took only 4-5 min to clear the majority of the water Cool tree grafting what to do with your old Pontiac station wagon

In Alabama we call siphoning a "Georgia gas card". In Georgia they call it "stealing gas". 😄

Quick update. I haven't yet received the original purchase but stumbled on these at amazon and took a shot since they had free returns and the deal was far better than the one from ebay. You get more pieces, a better range, and they are half the price from the ones i bought on ebay. I'll be returning the ebay ones shortly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BM93WN31/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 They arrived today and boy they are nice and I highly recommend. They have the same "issue" in that the head isn't OEM but they fit nicely into an 8mm ratchet and that's what i prefer anyway. This kit has them in individually wrapped bags sorted by size range The plating seems very consistent in color and application and they really hold the shape nicely as you close them Head shot, don't like the flat head screw but as mentioned will use the ratchet instead.

So not too bad, I thought it might be worse, I'll hit with a torch and try to hammer down some of the highs.

Looking for a part #, I found this. 40300N3200. It appears to be a Nissan wheel. Arguably a one-year-only, 77 Black Pearl Edition wheel. That info came from an old Ratson thread. Does anyone know if the Black Pearl Edition came with gold wheels? None of the 77 Black Pearl Z Images Google offers have gold wheels like yours.

1/4" Skrim coated foam (left over from a Volvo headliner job years ago) faux leather padded sleeve. Velcro fastening

Wishing you all a very successful 2024!!

I cranked my 240 and let it run in the garage long enough to open the thermostat and move the coolant back through the radiator. Also fresh gas in the float chambers. It's cold as ice down here, high today was supposed to be 45F but I never saw above 41. How in the name of God do you Northerners live life for half a year freezing? I only have to stay inside around 2 months if we're lucky.

They most likely sandblast or dip into a cleaner beforehand, like powder coating I'd think. Taking Mikes off and having them coated would be a job for a busy man, unlike myself. I'd suggest double stacking the manifold gasket, 2 gaskets can't hurt. My 6 to 1 on my 280 has a leak with felpro gasket. The 240 has Nissan metal around the exhaust ports but I've noticed a small amount of soot around #2 runner but no noise. 280 sounds like a diesel to my ears and I hate it but I'm sorta lazy so let it ride until I get older and even more lazy. The Nissan gasket is the ticket and I'm pretty sure they are still available from Nissan dealer parts department.

If he decides to go through the trouble of getting his installed header coated, these folks do MSA's work. http://www.embeeperformance.com/ they're a little closer. Ask me how I know??? This was on my front porch, damaged. I contacted Joseph at MSA and we figured out that Embee sent them the coated headers in a flimsy box by the pallet load. His shipping guys weren't re boxing them and sent mine across the country in pretty much a paper bag. So good communication worked again, problem solved. I got another one shipped ASAP without anything but sincere apologies. Great Z supplier!

Mine were reasonable $425 for header & collector.

Well, they are miles better than the Tabco panels but some of the KFV panels fit better than others. The floor pans are just about drop in and weld, the other panels all seem to be too big, which is better than too small. At least with the panel being bigger you can cut it up into 2-3 separate pieces so you can make each edge match the way it should then mark it, cut it and then weld it all back into one piece. Here is the first D/S dog leg I installed, I didn't realize at that time that the panel was too big so I still have to go back and cut the bottom where the marker line is to get rid of that droop. On the P/S I saved myself that work by cutting the dog leg up and using it as a patch, the marker line is where both panels were cut and welded. The bottom of the fenders and deck lid supports were the same, I had to cut out as much as a 1/4" in places, then reweld them together. I hope I don't sound like I'm complaining because I'm not, nip/tuck and massaging is all part cutting out rust and putting fresh metal back in. After I scrape as much paint off as I can with a heat gun, I usually start blocking with 80 grit, but this time I thought I would give these a try, Norton Blaze rapid strip disc. I've tried the 3M version and it wore out so fast it was waste of $. These aren't cheap at $27.00 CDN a piece but I've done a little more than a 1/4 of the car and you can see how little has worn away. I'll probably go through 3 discs for this project and save probably a 100 hrs and a lot of wear and tear on the back. The only down side is they dump everything into the air, even with a fan on sucking the dust out of the shop there is still a layer of leaded red oxide dust on everything.

……..or take your favorite IPA down to the paint shop. Brandon just painted his Z31 Safari Gold. I’ll see if he can help.