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A couple of people have contacted me to ask some more about the car. One question was, "...is it really a 1969-built car?", because the Mecum auction description is calling 'PS30-00105' a "1969 Datsun Fairlady Z432." Of course, it's not a 'Datsun' (it's a Nissan...) and it wasn't built in 1969 either. 'PS30' prefixed cars built in 1969 ended with 'PS30-00072' and 1970 production started with 'PS30-00073'. Clearly 'PS30-00105' is an early 1970 build date car, not 1969. So, another little elephant trap for an unwary buyer to fall into.

So I started off the day tapping the holes for the visors, mirror and coat hook. They are all 5m x 0.8 I pulled the front windlace off and redid it a little bit. I tried to get it tucked to where the edge was pretty even across based on the RV mirror bump out. Then I clipped it off. Then I pulled off a few clips and ran the windlace from the middle out. My windlace had a small white dot on it near the middle. I don't know if that was a factory thing or not. I used a rubber mallet against the windlace and hit it with the brass hammer to seat it. Then I trimmed it back The kit I have is from MSA and the foam is grey open cell with some kind of backing on it I found the middle of the header piece and marked it. Then I used the spray adhesive from the kit. It works pretty good. I glued it up into place and then trimmed it and cut all the visor and mirror holes. Then I used weld wood contact cement and glued the header piece in. I didn't pull it very tight and after the clips are on it looks good. The sides are actually the harder portion. I had to slide the pieces from the kit backward and forward on the ceiling to find the right place where the A pillar material would hit right. Then I installed the windlace. Then I glued the upper edge of the roof trim above the door. I drew a line where it meets the seam so I knew where to run cement. Pull it a little and clip it off Then I figured out the fold technique and locations. Y'alls pictures were really helpful with this Then I glued the inside edge of the A pillar and clipped it. Then I did the outside edge I'm not really sure where to stop the bottom of the A pillar? This took about 225 19mm clips... This where the window trim fits. So the roof trim gets covered from here back That is good to have that about behind me. There is a little detail work I need to do at the folded seams to try to fasten them down and make them look good. I might use a little super glue for that. Would have been much easier on the rotisserie!! "Tuition"...

https://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html/aluminum_vs_copper.php

if you can source a new OE fitment evaporator and it the rest of the stuff is in good shape (switches, solinoids, idle up, vacuum actuators) that is if the only thing that is NOT working is the evap getting cold, then trying to go full stock would be less work. Pretty sure new evaps with current style TVX are out there, just take some looking. They fit into the evap housing, so as long as the air handling part is functional you are almost there. The under the hood stuff is easy, you can source a new compressor with an aftermarket style mount, this will take some fabrication, or if you can source a swp123 type compressor, then you can use that with the OE compressor mount. Hard lines should be ok, new drier of course, but as I said the under the hood stuff is pretty generic. Its all in the air handling and under the dash that makes it hard. IF you decide to go with all new non OE air handling then be prepared for some serious fabrication. I have not seen too many in depth documented installation of the under the dash stuff. You have control layout, vents, wiring, heating to work out. The biggest down side I have on the non OE is the lack of a proper outside vent hook up from the cowl vent. All the aftermarket air handlers seem to have you just seal that up and just recirc the air. I suppose its not that big of a deal, but I like the option on cool days to run fresh air thru the dash vents.

I know what I got....

That's a bigger ask than you possibly realise. Mecum's online blurbs claim that the car "...showcases originality and authenticity." Their line with "The silver exterior..." might indicate that much of the description is cut-and-pasted from another auction listing. In any case, it is wrong. The listing claims that the car was "restored" twice, once in Japan and once in "London" (in fact, bodyshell work was performed in Wales and disassembly-reassembly in Kent). Judge for yourself whether the work done in Japan would qualify the car as "restored", let alone remaining original and authentic: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68418-best-botches-bodges-and-balls-ups It took a lot of work to reverse most of that. The car received replacement front wings/fenders, bonnet/hood, doors, both rear quarter panels, complete rear panel and floor panels. Many, many 432-specific parts were either missing or had been modified by previous owner(s) and many of the generic 1970 S30-series parts (interior diamond vinyl trim, interior plastic panels, door panels, carpets etc) were either missing or too damaged to re-use. For example, a pair of 1970 HLS30U seats had to be used in lieu of the correct 1970 PS30-D seats (therefore the 'flip forward' lever function is missing) and some of the dash gauges were re-painted to simulate their original specs. The owner made some somewhat strange decisions regarding finishes (look at that tail lamp trim panel) and also chose to simply leave some non-original parts as-found. For example, the front brake calipers were from an R32 GT-R and the differential was an open R180 unit when the car would have left the factory with a 4.44:1 ratio 2-pinion LSD R192 unit fitted. They remained on the car when it was sold to the owner in the USA. The Mecum description claims the car has an R192 diff, but I doubt that is the case. My impression is that the owner wouldn't know the difference, but the lack of the original differential completely changes the essential character of a 432. So, "originality and authenticity"? Not really. It's a nice enough car now (the extensive work performed on the bodyshell in the UK brought it back from the brink, I'd say) and would make a very usable and practical daily driver, but in my opinion it isn't the "exceptional investment opportunity for collectors" that Mecum claim. Yes, that's just sales patter and they all do it, but my worry is that some well-intentioned but not so well-informed buyer might end up believing he's getting Snow White when he's actually getting Joan Rivers. Due Diligence required.

So pointing out that the Mecum description for 'PS30-00105' is effectively a pack of lies is "missing the point" then? Call me old fashioned, but I still expect an auction to get what they put in writing right. What they hide, and what they don't know, is part of the game. Lies, not. @ "armchair experts". This thread is a veritable parking lot full of deep-buttoned silk velvet upholstered wingback armchairs. That's what we do. That's what classiczcars.com exists for. Who else is going to do it? The poorly-informed, portfolio-building-and-bailing-out-at-the-right-time-investors who bought something because their 'advisor' told them it was cool won't do it. They don't know sh*t from putty. What do you classify yourself as then, Tonto?

I take it you have a 280Z? Those injectors are getting pretty ancient these days, a modern injector on an L28 engine will allow better tuning, mileage and maybe power. You would probably have to change over to a different FI management system but I think there are some plug and play units available now, I think MegaSquirt has one but it has been a few years since I played with that stuff.

So I received the new collar yesterday I ordered a different one but it was out of stock. I selected another product and Rockauto shipped it for the same price as the cheaper one. Which I thought was cool! It looks to be about 10mm taller. I might go over to Cody's tomorrow and check out the total stack height

Good old Google found it though. https://www.mecum.com/auctions/monterey-2023/collections/the-mike-and-debbie-rogers-datsun-collection/

Original rubber flooring came on the early USA exports without any jute insulation. Carpeting was added at the port of entry with jute. The front mats probably look like this?

This link might work. At least for one photographer. https://www.facebook.com/media/set?vanity=bczregistry&set=a.791015816358692

Worked on the AC lines from evaporator to firewall, sealing the box, and sealing the ductwork to the box. Fitted the dash frame to check all fitments have to crimp the fittings sealing foam for lines exiting the box closed cell foam to seal box to frame attachment test fitted evaporator box & dash frame gap around duct housing Even worse on the right added a flange to mate with the Nissan duct, so I could seal the gap. Factory evaporator box must be taller & narrower. extra thin foam on top half, due to angle of evaporator box Added thick foam to the duct, to seal against the flange then added thin foam to seal the facia vent to the duct sealed now

Has anyone mentioned this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/134685619600 VIN HLS30-00229

Not seeing much talk about the Mecum sale of 'The Mike and Debbie Rogers Datsun Collection' in Monterey over the next couple of days. I hope anyone who bids on the 1970 Nissan Fairlady Z432 (PS30-00105) is well informed regarding its history and its current specification/parts content, as there are a number of inaccuracies in Mecum's listing and in their description of the car. https://www.mecum.com/lots/1088316/1970-nissan-fairlady-z432/

If anyone ends up buying this one to scrap for parts please let me know! I'd rather see someone fix it though.

No Vin number and pretty rusty!! I'd have to be really motivated for that one!