Leaderboard

After a while, you get a feel for how to loose set them so they end up at the proper clearance after tightening the lock nut.

Thanks dutchzcarguy and Jeff G 78 and Patcon for your support and directions. I will work through the information provided and update my results

That’s a crap shoot . Not sure if you’ll pass smog because that will probably change the way it runs . And be ready for a fight . One might have fell out , but I bet the others won’t 🙂 .

Go to page 18 on this link. I discuss all my issues with my 1977 HVAC stuff, including heater core modification (thanks CaptainObvious) and the Heater Control Valve refirb. It was a quick turnaround for this, maybe 7 days. I looked everywhere, you will not find an OEM heater core or control valve anywhere so don't bother, I spent hours looking. This was my only real option. http://www.heatervalves.net

I bought a stock gasket, and it was already seeping oil mostly just sitting for the past couple months. The silicone one came from MilkFab

Got the brakes bled, then worked on the fender liners & the wheel well coating. Did some plastic weld repairs to the cracks around the mount points Added closed cell foam to the inner rear panels, they are not exactly a snug fit by any means added a foam lip for the main panels, they also don't seal against the fender as supplied. I looked for an EPDM lip, but the ones I have are too bulky. I've since found one online, so I'll revisit that when I remove the fenders in the future reinforced the forward sections with plastic washers. Also using Volvo M6 hardware with large heads, to spread the load Shouldered hardware - prevents crushing the liner Scrubbed the wheel arches with a wire brush, then prepped the undercoat with lacquer thinners to help the Rocker Shutz adhere wait 45 mins then apply undercoat Put the Konig on to find that the backside of the hub doesn't clear the Toyota S12 calipers. Had to add a 1/8" spacer to each side

I'd pull the pan and check out the cylinders, and bearings. Then the head and change the valve seats. Other than that, at 40,000 miles, i'd expect to still see hone marks in the cylinder walls.

Had to take a break from the Z - I'm driving the X1/9 to Carlisle Import Show tomorrow, so yesterday I changed the oil & filter (been about 500 miles since the rebuild) and swapped out the wheels & tires for the new Federal 595's on Rota TBTs

The vertical metal is tubes that the coolant flows through. The horizontal zig-zaggys are just the fins that dissipate the heat from the tubes. It's not necessarily junk if it doesn't leak. But, besides leaking, the tubes need to be clear so that there is good flow and good heat transfer. Just drain it well and store it away. You might also consider taking to a radiator shop and seeing how much it would cost to refurbish it. It used to be common practice to boil them out but it's not so common anymore. Caustic chemicals and longer-lasting coolants make it not so profitable. I had good luck with a parts store Murray radiator. Many of the aftermarket radiators out there are meant for underhood flash, like cold air intakes and chrome hose fittings. Make sure you know what you're getting. And electric fans don't really add much, they're kind of for show also. A shroud, a good fan clutch, and a good radiator works really well. The cooling problems you read about are from 40+ year old parts, not the design of the system.

As I was thinking about this a bunch of memories passed through my head in voice over type thoughts. "Is this one exhaust or this one?" Do they just alternate from here? Exhaust - intake - exhaust - intake... No? Crap. The engine's tilted. Up is not Up". Is this still hot? Should I start over? It was perfect before I tightened the lock nut, now it's too tight. Does it matter if it's hard to get the feeler gauge in? Am I scratching the cam lobe with the feeler gauge? Where's my small sledge, I don't want to bleed anymore. #1 is a B___h! I should have wiped that oil off the edge before it dripped down the side of the engine. Wow, I really wacked something when the nut came loose. Hope nothing got bent. I could have just taken my time setting them cold, then rechecked them when they're hot. And that's just in the first hour.