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What else do you think he would say? We are talking about California Datsun right?

I've been following your struggle for all of those eight years. If I remember correctly, the person who sold you the car has a less than stellar reputation. You might be stuck with the problem until you have the engine and carbs rebuilt by a reputable shop.

Indeed. The author cannot have done much in the way of checking the bona fides of 'The Z Guild' and Mr Robert Jackson, and he certainly didn't do much fact-checking for the rest of the book either. The book was endorsed by Nissan themselves, which - in my opinion - illustrates how low calibre some sections of that company became under Ghosn's time as CEO.

I have watched several BAT auctions and numerous fb posts where he interacts. Somehow, he has convinced a large percent of the 240z community that he is the great watubie of 240z. I am not sure how he sold that idea. For the longest time, any time someone posted a car for sale on fb or bat, he would reply with a veiled sales pitch that started with "That is why all our cars that we sell have a ...". He was always stepping in front of a potential sale for someone. There was even a book published recently that referenced this guy. I never bought the book just because I assumed the author must not have done any research. Google his name. Pretty interesting stuff. Remember. After all he is a used car salesman. 🙂

Went into town late this afternoon, it was dark as I drove back into the country, and down the dark country lane that leads home. The sight of our home, lights in the windows, reminded me of this.

After you figure out the meter problem you might want to put a handheld meter on your charging system. 15 is too high.

Just remove it and see if the system can cool things down. The engine should never get up to operating temperature without a thermostat. If it can't keep things cool then it won't matter what thermostat you have in there. p.s. the thermostat is actually a heating device. It blocks coolant flow until the coolant reaches desired temperature.

If everything is working as intended, then pushing coolant out into the overflow bottle is not only "not a problem", but it is actually a good thing. There should always be some coolant in the overflow bottle and the level should actually change as the engine heats up and cools back down. When the engine heats up, it pushes coolant out into the bottle, and then when the engine cools back down, it should suck the same amount of coolant back into the engine. I'm actually more concerned that your bottle was ever completely dry. That should not be the case.

Seems like you might be avoiding the hard truth. Flushing the passages of a cooling system that used to work fine instead of verifying that your head gaskets are in good shape. If you have a blown head gasket flushing will not help. You can get a test kit for not a lot of money. Harbor Freight, OReilly, Amazon. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/combustion-leak-detector Is your heater core connected? You don't have it bypassed? Bypassing the heater core can cause cooling problems.

The active ingredient in that stuff is "HYDROCHLORIC ACID 7647-01-0 10-20" I wouldn't put that stuff in my aluminum headed Z motor. Especially hot.

Has your fuel pressure decreased causing a lean condition? Lean=hot