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Some update: I did a lot of searching and e-mails to Datsun clubs and people around the world. Also Kats helped in this. A shop in Australia could also help me with parts for the FS5C71A. Then by luck, a garage here in Brabant Pronvince, close to Zeeland, had a complete transmission laying around ! How luck is that ? I'm going to pick it up coming weeks, then drop it off at the transmission shop so he can check it out, and then I can complete my original 240Z 5 speed swap in the future.

Multiples of my two great loves on track together.

I see a brass tube with a plastic knob inserted. That is an injection molded part. Those thin walls will be difficult to replicate. The cost of machining is in the tolerances, not the dimensions.

no need to drain the oil. sender is above the level.

I would not consider either ABS or acrylic to be a good choice in the long term. Certainly usable for proof of concept and testing a procedure. Careful with the acrylic as it can be brittle and shatter if you push it too hard. Don't hurt yourself and wear eye protection! This could be done in a drill press, but it's really not the tool for the job. For the spring hole, you want the hole in the center and it probably has a flat bottom. The rounded tip is actually the easy part here... Just use a file while the part is spinning. Heck, since I don't consider it to be a high precision job, that's what I would do on the lathe. Use a file and eyeball the radius.

Here is where mine is and it runs pretty smooth. It's kind of on the mild side. The engine is an F54/P79 mild cam(stage 2) shaved head with lightened pistons(Datsun Spirit stage 2)running FAST EFI. All we get here is 92 octane. It's right at 10:1 compression ratio. Seems to be a bit happier with non ethanol.

I've always read that if you can spin the fan blades around more than one or 1.5 complete rotations while the car is off and "cold" the clutch could be bad. Another way that's a little trickier is if you can stop the running fan with a piece of cardboard it's most likely bad. They're oil filled so it should be harder to spin freely by hand before cranking while the oil is cool. They are cheap, or used to be , available and not too hard to replace. I'm more concerned about the oil pressure gauge.

Snap On makes two gland nut wrenches, WMS1, and WMS2. WMS1 has four sizes, 51, and 54 mm on one side, 55, and 58 mm on the other. WMS2 has 53 mm on one side, and two sizes for slotted gland nuts like one finds on hydraulic jacks. Pictures below. The OEM strut assemblies used the strut tube as a reservoir, so oil was used. The aftermarket strut cartridges are fully self contained. No oil is required to be added.

Remove the wire from the oil pressure sender and short the wire to the chassis. The best way to do this is have a wire with an alligator clip on one end and a normal male bullet connector on the other end. Clip the wire to the shock tower or negative terminal of the battery and connect the bullet to the wire for the oil pressure sender. Go in your car. Put the key in ON (don't start the car) and watch the oil pressure gauge. If it shoots up, you probably have a bad sender. Definitive diagnosis would be to confirm with a mechanical gauge. See this thread for info on installing a mechanical gauge: