Leaderboard

Instances of people feeling the need to coin the term "Series 1.5" only serve to demonstrate what a confected nonsense the whole "Series 1", "Series 2" thing is. The Series is S30.

If it ran so so with full choke on new carbs then I think I would check float chamber levels and fuel delivery. Close off the return and see how it runs. That should build more fuel.

Kind of seems like the damper might have slipped and might still be slipping. You used to be able to see it, but it wasn't really in the right place. 2 degrees retarded is pretty far off, if the points were correct for the engine in the beginning. Then it was at 20, you could see it, but now it seems to have moved again. See if you can move the pulley on the crankshaft end by hand. Wiggle twist torque on it. See what happens.

that is fantastic. My next project is to build new keys for the retrosound with the help of 3-D Print

If you go to the search header on the BaT site and type in "Datsun 240Z", you will see a chart of sales values for the past three years. It's pretty easy to see what the average sales values are; the highs, the lows. That's a good guide. BaT prices are usually high compared to eBay or Craigslist.

^Thanks guys. I may give that a try. Thinking about zip-tying it to the ground wire to keep it out of the way. Will keep you posted.

It won't take too much slack to clear. Your other option is to route the wires to run counterclockwise from the pickup to the grommet.

You can pull some more slack wire into the distributor to clear. Also use some electrical tape to protect the wires more.

So getting back to the current issue at hand of your idle being high even with the adjustment screws being turned out. Another remnant of your previous carb conversion is the (vertical) linkage rod that pushes down on the center linkage... That rod used on your original carbs (flat tops) is a different length than the rod used for your current round tops. Most people replace the original longer rod with a correct one, but it appears your previous owner modified your original rod instead. Looks like he cut one end off and attached a loop to the top. "Welded" maybe? In any event, it looks like from your pics that linkage is already slack, but just to make double dog sure, you can pop the plastic ball off the linkage at the bottom. That way the center linkage between the two carbs should be guaranteed to be loose and not affected by anything else upstream. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about. You should be able to use a small screwdriver and pop the plastic female end off the male ball:

HS30-H I can't agree more. In the early 70s, while working as a Datsun dealer mechanic, we were taught to refer to Datsuns by their production date.

MT-90 is the best I've ever found for the Datsun trans.

I took the spring off, and I do know that the throttle linkage between the two carbs is loose; I loosened both those as directed by all the various manuals when I started trying to individually balance the carbs. It's not cross threaded, it's just screwed all the way out. I will put a lockwasher on the back one, thanks for pointing that out. And more pertinently, yes, I can back the idle speed screw on the front carb all the way out and it's still roaring. It is like 100+ degrees every day here at present, and I also hurt my arm/shoulder over the weekend, so it's likely to be at least a few more days before we get back out to the garage, but I will holler back here as soon as we do. THANKS so much for all the help so far.

Would love to see how it turns out if you pull the trigger ! I just took @UM240 idea retro sound with original faceplate , was able to keep the original knobs with a little Teflon tape and a makeshift bracket to keep the antenna switch . Has anyone touched up the silver/chrome on the trim ? That’s my next project

Just because there is no sense in starting another thread on this, I’ll share my experience on this. It’s four door 510 door weatherstrip day (week actually) around here, and I purchased the replacement strips from Datsport in Australia. http://www.datsport.com/rubbers-510-sedan.html Part number SBO51F-14 They are perfect fit replacements for the stock items. I must note that the 510 rubbers are quite a bit different than the Z pieces. Much smaller, and too short. so stop drooling, the Datsport parts don’t fit. As to the Lowes.com garage door weatherstrip mentioned above, Lowes Canada does not carry it but Homedepot.ca does! https://www.homedepot.ca/product/m-d-building-products-2-inch-x-9-ft-premium-rubber-weather-seal-replacement-garage-door-bottom-black/1001120751 I’m working on modify one of those heavy staplers to punch right through and make installation easy. None of the staples I’ve found yet match the 10mm spacing of the stock staple legs. I’m going to try some modern 3m adhesives and see if I can make a sandwich that stays together without staples at all. There sure are lots of aftermarket rubber companies that make various “Belt moldings”, steelrubber products being only one. And lastly, if you think even new perfect fitting seals keep water out of your doors you’re a dreamer. Slow it down, sure. Much better time spent water proofing the inside bottom of your doors with yearly maintenance and added application of spray in creep and lube rust proofers and making sure the drain holes are open.

I have built and engine or two in my career. I want to go back to the original question and ask why are you replacing the rod bearings? And, what do you hope to achieve?