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FIXED! Finally. After several months and many hours, everything works. Headlights, parking lights, hazards, brake lights and turn signals. The last two to be resolved were the brake lights and turn signals. To diagnose, I took the switch completely apart (for about the 10th time), but this time, I plugged the raw switch elements into the harness, like this: (that poor circuit board) With the rocker absent, the brake lights came on perfectly. I played around with the angle of the rocker tabs and moved it back and forth with my thumb until everything worked. Conclusion: The rocker tabs were FAR too "flat." They need to be bent upward at a fairly decent angle, like so: Reassembled everything, and it all works. Thanks to all for your help and good advice. Special shout out to Steve for his wiring diagram and input. * * * * * * To summarize, here were my issues and here how they were resolved: Uncertain about steering column wire connections: Referenced pics on the internet and consulted wiring diagrams. No parking lights, and 20A fuse was popping every time I tried to turn them on: Front left parking light wired backward. No brake lights or turn signals: A combination of cleaning out the TS and hazard switch contacts, re-soldering loose wires and bending the rocker tabs at the correct angles. Thanks again. On to the next issue, lol.

Yes, they were a little off but not enough to prevent them from working. I should of used a drill press and not a hand-held drill but my drill press did not have the reach to clear the steering wheel and I didn't want to wait a few days to get access to one of the ones at the maker space. At least they were both off in the same direction so the separation was correct. And for the first time in 9 months, my horn is working!

2000 was a long time ago...

I found it on your profile page. You can put that info in your signature and it will show up in every post. "Zcars Owned 280z About my Cars My car is a 78' 280Z that has not ran since 2000. I purchased it from one of former student who knew my love for the car. SInce I am retiring this year, my first goal is to get it run with the engine that is in it." Here's a link to the Signature box. It's in "Account Settings". Don't know why. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/signature/

You have fuel, apparently, now you need spark and injection. Have you checked for spark? The distributors and ignition modules on these old cars tend to be bad. Just do the old school way of sticking a spark plug in one of the plug wires and grounding it to the engine block while you crank the engine. Or squirt starter fluid in to one of the ports on the intake manifold then crank the engine. If it starts but dies you'll know that you have spark, and can focus on injection. It would help too, if you told people something about the car. When did it last run?

The mechanical pump will work with the Holley carb. Both carbs need between 3-4 psi, which is normal pressure for a mechanical pump.

New FPR hood.

In my opinion, very good. Probably an 8 out of 10, given the size and my car setup. Obviously I would use something better for track or auto crossing, but for everyday use and sometimes aggressive corning, I think they're great. I went on a ~100 mile drive yesterday with the Z club in the foothills, highway 49 (which sometimes makes Car & Drivers favorite road list), and my favorite, 193 coming down into Placerville. Pleased with their performance when we had no traffic in front of us.

Buy the rail and replace it entirely Edit: If the bottom Is that compromised the sides are too. And potentially the flanges and welds. Clean slate...

It's in his other thread. He found some sparkles. Must be having a storage problem, maybe this link will work. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/66478-what-is-this-part/#comment-637408

Are you asking me? 225-50 or 55, I think. 15x8 inch wheels. I’ll check when I get home. I run Hoosier Street TD, 225-55 bias ply on my race Z, on a 14x7 inch rim. Perfect fit.

You can kind of guess by looking at original heads ID stamp. The uncut ones will have about a 1/16" space between the lettering and the head's bottom deck. If it's been cut the lettering is right at the bottom.

Just came back from the 14th 2018 JCCS at Long Beach Ca. It was a 500 cars show....WHAT a turn out.Won 2nd Place in Skylines.The 1st was a Hako.