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Hope everyone had a nice holiday. Here is a little drawing I made around 1980, when I lived in a waterfront home on the Tulalip Indian Reservation. I hosted a party every year, charcoal grills cooking meat, lots of beer to drink, and fireworks. Lots of fireworks.

OK, in between grilling out for the 4th, I think I may have a solid lead on the issue. I jumped the 2 green wires going to the 6-pin hazard switch connector, and voilà, turn signals operational. The brake lights only work if I jump the GY and WR/WB wires at the turn signal switch. So. Flaky hazard switch connections + flaky turn signal switch connections. Just gotta clean & test, clean & test, etc.

My carbonator linkage disconnected during a drive so I pulled the hood release lever to fix it only to have it pull out with a broken cable. I had it towed home and it's up on my lift. If I want to try and release the latch with a long screw driver, what does the latching mechanism's cable attachment point look like from underneath? Oh... BTW: Happy 4th of July

some progress beside what I started on the P90a head.. Pulled the next to last main bearing, very little wear, two tiny scratches (on the bearing the journal looks perfect). the two scratches are hair thin, I am going to leave them be IF test with plastigauge are ok. Pulled #2 conrod bearing again virtually no wear, and journal looks perfect. This engine looks like a low mileage low oil change or maybe cheap arse oil used. everything on the outside is coked up, the turbo was thrashed but the bearing and the cylinder hone looks low mileage. I was thinking of removing # 2 piston while the rod bearing was apart to inspect the rings, mainly the oil control rings (the leak down test shows good compression). This is new territory for me, (never tore into an engine before, I am an electronics guy not a mechanic guy). so each thing i do is new. I was thinking if the oil control rings are gummed up with the same cheap arse burnt up oil, maybe I could dunk the piston in my berrymans parts cleaner can and soak them. Clean off and reoil then reinstall. Thinking on it while waiting on the dumb plastigage, AZ showed in stock at local store but guy could not find it.

I don't have anything swapped. I have a parking light relay harness ready to go in: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10d15/12-4652 but I want to get everything functioning "normally" before I complicate things by installing that. So by "flaky" I meant either bad connections inside the switches themselves OR bad connections at the connectors. Digging more into it tonight. Thanks for the offer of switches! I may hit you up.

I think I just found something in an old posting: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107117-howto-release-a-240z-hood-when-cable-broken/ Note that the link shows a slightly modified latch using a nut and bolt to attach the cable end. I just ordered a new cable (from Thailand) and am heading out tomorrow to get a long, narrow pry bar/screwdriver.

Freshest Bass Ever😂😂😂

If you want to, you can send me the turn signal switch to evaluate and advise.

Happy 4th of July guys!! Proud to be an American, even if things are tough right now. Have a safe celebration today!!

I agree with 240znomad's recommendation that you look closely at the throttle linkage. When I converted from flat-top carbs to round-tops on my '73 I also replaced the intake manifold, throttle linkage and balance tube to match the earlier 1971 carbs. Even doing all that required adjustment of the throttle linkage rods. If you disconnected the linkage and still can't get the idle speed down you may have a bent or damaged throttle plate. I experienced this on my wife's Toyota years ago when a backfire through the carb bent the throttle plate and the car would idle above 2000 rpm. The fix was to replace the throttle plate.

Thanks, trying to get motivated

So I finally got the car sanded down as far as I was willing to go. I taped it all up over the last week or so and reset the booth. Then shot some SPI white epoxy over that. It's a little different than what I am familiar with. It will fish eye if you lay the first coat on too heavy. Being white it can be hard to get full hiding coverage. I may stack some high build tomorrow. I've got 7 days to coat. We'll see...

Agree with Captain on the 2 end plugs. They are really close to the cylinders. I tried drilling a small hole in one to put a screw in and hopefully remove it and this happened.