Leaderboard

I'm reinstalling the dash, and checking wiring, connections, etc. I was not getting power to the ACC or IG busses in the fuse panel. I could hear the ignition relay 'click' with the key in the Acc or ON positions, and I could see power from the fusible link getting to the white-red wire at the bottom of the C6 connector. I pulled the dash back enough to back-probe the ignition relay connector, and confirmed that voltage was getting to the ACC and IGN contacts, but was not passing through when the relays were energized. I removed the ignition relay, and further confirmed by testing that both relays would click, but would not pass power through their contacts. This forum says the relay is not easily replaced, so I thought I would dig deeper. Start by bending back the cover tabs (circled), but try to be careful of the ground tab (arrow): Open the relay while trying the use the ground tab as a 'hinge': Admittedly, these relays appear to be in sad shape. But further examination showed that the contacts (circled) were actually in excellent condition, but there was a buildup of rust and crud between the coils and armatures (arrow): Note that by this time, I had broken the ground tab (square), which appears to have been spot-welded to the relay case. Clean up the crud with a folded over piece of 1000-grit: Retest both relays to make certain they are really snapping closed and making good contact. Put the relays back into the cover, and re-crimp the tabs to hold it together. If you broke the ground tab, solder a pigtail to the tab. Note that I tried, but could not reliably solder the tab back to the cover where it had originally been welded. When reinstalling the relay, be sure to put the existing ground wire under the relay mounting tab, and then you can put your pigtail ground under the same mounting bolt on top of the relay mounting tab. If the contacts had not been in good condition, I would not have done this, but would have instead resorted to wiring in new relays,

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I know that the stainless steel roof trims (see image below) on late model coupes (01/76 on) are fitted with clips (see image below), certainly to part number 73812-N4425 and 73813-N4425, for example. In NOS examples, they are normally contained in a little bag (see image below) as part of the roof trim assembly itself, but not clipped into it (I say normally, as a couple I purchased didn't have them).

Having the luck to look at many of these, I have seen some from the later 280’s that DO have clips in them. Now as to why anyone thought you might need them, I can’t imagine. Assuming they are not bent or deformed or twisted, they snap on VERY firmly. About the only problems I’ve had installing them stems from a fresh paint job where too much paint thickness on the gutter pinch weld. I am fairly confident that the factory would not spend extra money on these if they hadn’t had reported issues that these clips addressed. I can go look if any of the rails I have contain these clips to show what they look like. And here is my hot tip for drip trim removal https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/65066-new-way-to-remove-stainless-drip-rail-trim/ .

Slow poke! Its 5 o'clock somewhere! 😉

+1 on the Redline. Here's a link that explains what you need. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/mtl/index.html Most Z owners use MT90 rather than MTL for the trans and 75W90 gear oil for the diff. Don't use MT90 for the diff as it is not formulated for that usage.