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The real question is if the spindle pins will slide out like the FSM shows. ?

Well, I finally started working on my "New" 280Z (350 Miles). I plan to have it finished and take it to ZCON in September. Larry from AMMO NYC came down last week and did a full Paint Preservation/Restoration, making the car look all the more unbelievable. I'll start adding some detail photos when I can, but here ar e a few.

Dr.Dave, Yep... There's the other end! DaveWM, I assume there used to be some sort of discrete component in there, but honestly I don't know enough about thermistors to answer your good question about just a length of wire that changed it's resistance with temperature. I guess it's a possibility? Maybe? I think it used to look something like this and the thermistor turned to dust: I also don't think there is anything buried inside the plastic end cap. I think that's just a device to transition from the thermistor lead to the flexible wire.

I would bet that zcardepot sourced that thermistor from a modern vehicle. Maybe one with resistance in line. Probably gave it a short time frame test and went to market with it. Might be fun to go to the wrecking yard and tear up some fuel tanks.

Looks Peachy! I mean really nice. And; peachie...

it def was NPT I was able to hold the disk in between the ohm meter probs, got about 1.5k and it would drop when heated. I was not able to resolder the broken piece, I suspect it was a elec weld but not sure about that. Maybe a conductive epoxy. I cleaned it but was unable to get solder to stick. I suspect the material I was "cleaning" was some semi conductor as it sanded very easy leaving what looked like a metallic shiny surface. I am not sure what pure germanium looks like but maybe something like that.

here you go. It seems like there is a meshed liner that acts as a filter for the gasoline that enters the chamber, then you can see the tiny disk shaped thermistor

I updated the pic above to show more details about how I think the crimp ferrule is used to transition from device lead to wire.

hmmm maybe the OE unit is some kind of special NTC resistance wire (if there is such a thing) and not a separate component at all? I assumed it had to be a semiconductor of some kind, but maybe wire that is made with semiconductor material? I will be doing an autopsy of my spare defective unit later and reply back with results.

Good morning Cap'n O, I could not manage to snap a picture inside the can that would show what was in there with artificial lighting. With the help of some diffuse sunlight "by George I've got it". (movie reference. Trying to fit in! [emoji851]). The only thing that's in the can is a fragment of the broken wire about 3/4" long sticking straight up from the bottom where it is still attached to a point of solder. That's it. Is there a chance some other component of the thermistor is embedded within the plastic cap? Hope this helps Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

EFI will work more consistently over a wider barometric and temperature range. EFI will be easier to tune for most engine load and rpm ranges. EFI has more parts to purchase, install, and risk of failure.

Trev is a master tin beater, love his videos.

Seen on Facebook... This could likely apply to SUs. How about triple Webers or triple Mikunis?