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I don't think it's a typo. I think there's a way to interpret that spec that makes it "correct". The 2.5 Volt welding voltage is probably the open circuit voltage at the electrodes. Problem with converting that to a simple KVA rating, however, is that as soon as the electrodes are closed, you don't have 2.5 Volts anymore. You'll have something less. The 6000 Amp max welding current is probably a very short burst of current that occurs for a tiny instant of time when the electrodes are first connected. The "realistic" welding current is probably something much lower than that. The "rated power" is probably an averaged rating of how much power it draws under "normal circumstances". At 180 spots per hour, you're doing 3 per minute. If it takes ten seconds to position and ten seconds to weld, you've got a 50% duty cycle. My guess is you're drawing an ave of 2.3KW under those conditions. And something else thing to remember... The electronics inside the device consume power too. It's not all presented at the electrode tips. Some of the power consumed from the line cord goes into powering the device itself. It'll get hot inside and that power came from the same cord. So it may draw 500W quiescent power when just idling between welds. No idea.

We, Datsun dealer personnel in the US, were taught, by the factory, to identify cars by production date and model name, i.e. 3/72 510 2 door. It was explained to us as being the best way to get the correct parts from the mechanic's parts counter in the dealership. Not trying to be argumentative - just stating the historical record as experienced by me. PS I worked in Datsun dealers as a mechanic from 1970-1980

As everyone was watching (what we thought to be) a record breaking classic Z record on BAT, a much more impressive number was made in Japan. Best Heritage Japan's Tokyo Terrada auction, a 1970 Nissan Fairlady Z432 sold for 88,550,000 yen (or $805,000 USD). Between these two recent sales, the books are now under review as records are being broken. Images courtesy of Hagerty.com, full article can be found here: https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2020/01/14/430000-nissan-skyline-and-805000-fairlady-sales-historic-record-breakers#

hiyabrad , thanks for asking me about the seats .Yes the seats are reproduction , but the vinyl material is the one which originally was delivered for the seat manufacture IKEDA BUSSAN . The best seat craftsman for our cars Mr. Sudo has the vinyl in his shop , he asked the painter to die it in blue from the brown vinyl to match my aged blue interior ( so it does not match to the NOS blue ) . So unfortunately the upholstery kit is not available anywhere else . It is one -off made . Just one tip for the seats , correct original seat has no gap between the seat back and the seat bottom, this is important as well as the shape of the seat back . This morning, I found my ZG ‘s rear window defroster is working all of the 20 lines , perfect. One of the line was not working before , I didn’t do anything, so naturally back on normal ! Kats

Not forgetting that the S30-S 'Z-Std'/Standard model for the Japanese market got the non-defrost rear glass from '69 (HRW an extra cost showroom option on that model) whilst the 'Deluxe' models - PS30 Fairlady Z432 and S30 Fairlady Z-L - got it as standard equipment. I've got a vertical-element heated rear window in the back of the garages somewhere. Standard equipment on UK market cars (guess why). You're welcome to have it. Probably got the switch and harness sections too. You might need it soon. New ice age on the way, apparently...

Hi Kats. Are the blue seat covers reproductions? If so, how does the color match to the original set covers? Where did you buy them? Thanks!

You are not wrong, Alan. It goes a little deeper than that, IMO. My two 1969 builds have different parts than the car on BaT. Inspection lid clips, rubber hood bumpers, and badging to name but three. My inspection lids have little tabs riveted on and all my badging is metal including solid chrome Zs on the quarter panels. To the best of my knowledge, both cars had carpeting fitted at the port of entry. ( I was so lucky years ago to find a brand new piece of clear hatch glass )

That sounds more reasonable to me, $31,000.

I lifted the '1.6kVA' rating from your photo, which I took to be the unit your are using. There are two things in play with these welder ratings: When an electrical device relies on power bursts to do its job, the basic electrical power formula of 'P = V x A' is too simplistic and doesn't (directly) apply. That formula is most appropriately used for continuous conditions, such as calculating the power delivered by an electrical transmission line. And even in that case, there are correction factors that need to be used. The power rating for a welder only makes practical sense if it's measured and stated specific to a particular duty cycle (50% in this case). You`ll see a similar approach used for MIG welder ratings. Back in my days as a mechanical engineering undergrad, electrical engineering ratings and calculations always gave me a headache. They still do.

And that's the correct way, if you look in the factory parts manuals it shows chassis ranges, but also production dates as guides for part no's. If you called a dealer and said it was a series 1 you needed a part for, they may send you the wrong part!

E8100 late 'Europe' type.

Hello, I’m restoring a VIN 145xxx EU car. But never seen bumpers with those reinforcements. By the way Kats, your seats are great!

Hi Blue , I am glad to hear that .Everyone admits what Katayama-san had been dedicated for . Of course Alan does too . Alan wants to spread correct information to the people outside of Japan , I wanted people in Japan to know more about export model , because their family “ Datsun 240Z ( for US and Canada ) was sold in the biggest market for Nissan . The difference between Fairlady Z series and Datsun 240Z ( all export model ) would make people in Japan fun to look at . So , this time this green fantastic car did a great job for people in Japan too , because so many people watched this car and they became to know what a beautiful color combination it is , and they realized there might be still some cars like this existing in the US , what a great country it is ! Blue , when you come to see me , this nut 01211-00021 will be your souvenir from me . I have dozens of them , my goal is inviting overseas friends until this nut runs out . “ L “ means this needs to be turned opposite direction for the steering side rod Left . My little collection of bolts and nuts for suspensions. Kats

I visited a classic car shop yesterday , there is a Dec 1969 PS30-00062 . I felt this car is a good original car , a lot of original parts . I immediately noticed the welding finishing touch of the radiator support upper L & R corner , this is what I call and love “ hand crafted “ which is rarely seen in our mass produced S30 . How many things can we list “ hand crafted “ treatment parts in our cars ? I would say the interior roof center trim piece for room lamp could be the one , my 03/1970 has two cut away for the defroster wires which would looked “ hand crafted “ cut away . I guess my blue trim was made in early days and not ready to be considered as a car which have a defroster glass . Nissan would just make them a little too many blue trims . My blue tail gate interior trim too , the pieces for the vent system is different from later vented one , those pieces can only be seen on an early trim in black . Blue and Tan could be interesting as parts to be used early parts into a bit later cars . How about yours ? Kats