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Futofab bumpers ordered. Merry Christmas to me!!! Thanks for the nudge.

If you want to swap out all of your turn signal bulbs to LED, you'll need electronic flasher relays (turn signal and hazard). I have used this type for over 4 years with no problems, and it's on sale today at Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Audew-Electronic-Signal-Flasher-Motorcycle/dp/B011BTMDQM

I haven't been hit by one, but did have one fly across the garage once. That was enough to cause me to put a lot of caution into this process. Did a bit more work on the brakes, adding rear brackets now that they have been plated. Had to clean out the holes for the brackets with a tap since they had the powder coat on the threads. Also spent a little time organizing the zinc parts so that things will be easier to find. Finished one disc caliper and half way through the second.

"Pull in" means that the contacts are open until it gets to 8VDC. At that point, there is enough of a field that the coil pulls in the contacts, and the normally open circuit is now closed. So that is the minimum operating voltage. "Drop out" means that after the contacts have closed, they will stay closed until the voltage on the coil drops below 5VDC. At that point, the contacts drop out of the circuit, and the circuit is open. It makes sense that they are not equal because it takes more energy to change the state of the contacts from open to close than it does to maintain the contacts closed. https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Other Related Documents/Panasonic Other Doc/Small Signal Relay Techincal Info.pdf

Consider yourself nudged.

I'm in the process of rebuilding a one, maybe two, or three, not sure, FC5W71B transmissions. It's just about the LAST thing I have yet to do on (to?) a Datsun. Always thought it was too hard and needed too many special tools. It's not. I want to record details of what I found and did along the process, but not in the usual way. -I will NOT take a video of the whole process. There are plenty great ones on YouTube. I WILL record the URL's of any helpful video's I find to help centralize the source for those videos and maybe critique each one's strengths. -I will NOT add the 300 photos I will take along the way. I WILL take photos and add notes on the tricks and traps and useful organizational methods I found and used along the way. -I WILL make one post that lists ALL the tools I needed. Some I bought, some I modified, some I made, to help you to understand what you will need if you try this. This will either convince you can or CAN'T (or shouldn't) -I WILL encourage you to attempt this yourself. It is not hard, it is just very detail oriented. -I WILL list parts sources for parts I find, especially new sources. -I will make notes about commonality I find between the various 4 and 5 speeds, if that turns there are enough to mention. For example I need a 1-2 shift fork for a 82-83 trans. What other trans have the same fork? Any? Stuff like that. Now onto the good stuff

Is that little green car a future model? looks nice.

That's what sites like Digi Key are for: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electric-works/CB1-R-12V/255-2161-ND/646987

I can attest that on my 1978 5 speed transmission you have to have the correct shifter or 5th is a no go. I chased my tail trying to find out my issue. I was using my 4 speed shifter. There is a difference between the two. Completely solve the issue.

These flasher relays are as quiet as a church mouse. You could always splice in a piezo buzzer. The positive on the buzzer would be on the downstream side of the relay, and the negative would be grounded. It would be hard to ignore a 90dB buzzer.

The first place to check the voltage on the yellow wire is at the voltage regulator. Do not expect it to be 12VDC. As a matter of fact, I am fairly sure it is the neutral of the alternator. It will probably be around 8 VDC or a little higher at its peak (I used 14VDC as the alternator voltage instead of the 12VDC that @Captain Obviousused.). (And the good Captain was already finishing up his reply as I started mine.) As was mentioned, the 400RPM is only a rough guideline. When starting the car, you usually have the choke pulled up, and the idle speed will be higher. That usually means a higher voltage being generated by the charging system. There is a table on EE-23 that shows the voltage at different temperatures (prior to solid state regulators). The voltage at the N terminal should be about the square root of 3 lower. Now I'm going to have to check this at home...Thanks guys for giving me more to do. ?

The reason you aren't getting enough voltage to consistently trigger FPR1 is because of the way the "N" terminal works. Clearly academic, but just in case anyone wants to know... That "400 RPM" cutout is a bit of a misnomer. They use the "N" output from the alternator to pull in the fuel cut relay #1, and that "N" output from the alternator is actually the "Neutral" connection of a three phase "Y" connected generator. The voltage on this neutral output is the normal alternator output voltage divided by the square root of three (about 1.73). So for example, when the alternator output is twelve Volts, the neutral wire should have about seven Volts on it: Datsun assumes that by the time the engine is spinning at 400 RPM or higher, the alternator is up and operating, and the voltage on the neutral output is high enough to pull in the fuel cut relay. So you need a relay with a pull-in lower than 8 Volts in order to be guaranteed to pull in with the L-N (Line to Neutral) voltage from the three phase alternator.

I think you may be confused on the operation of the fuel pump relays. Refer to pages EF-6 and EF-7 in the Factory Service Manual. If you don't have a copy, you can get one from the downloads section on this website. There are two fuel pump relays (FPR). FPR1 sends voltage to the fuel pump when the car is running. This is defined as the alternator turning over 400 RPM. The coil wire for FPR1 comes from the yellow wire between the alternator and voltage regulator. This is important to know because swapping the alternator/regulator for an internally regulated alternator will kill the power for the coil for FPR1. FPR2 kills the voltage to the fuel pump when the car is starting. FPR2 has normally closed contacts. They will open when there is power to the starter. The path of the yellow wire for the coil on FPR2 is different between the manual and automatic cars. (Note that this refers to how the car left the factory, not whether or not the current transmission is a manual. People do transmission swaps, but they don't swap the wiring harness at the same time.) You don't need the fuel pump running while cranking since the carburetor should have enough fuel in the bowls to start. Once you release the key for the ignition to go from Start to On, the fuel pump should be running if the alternator is turning over 400 RPM. So, what is happening/not happening with your car that you need to fiddle with the fuel pump relays?

Hi Gavin , I just don’t know . Maybe to concentrate on driving . Thinking about Z432-R , no insulates thick pad on the fire wall , and if you cut the glove box half like Mr.Katori’s car , you will have bright orange in your site . To delete uneasy feeling , Z432-R has those black paint . Here is a excerption from the race manual , you see the black paint “ Dashboard and front floor “ on the far right of the row . This auction car PS30-00289 should have black paint , it was registered 04/1972 as a ( standard ) Z432-R , not for racing . While Mr.Katori’s PS30-00186 was not registered when it was born , because this car was meant to be used as a race car . PS30-00186 looks no black paint on the front floor , and under dashboard area . This could be a interesting point talking about the difference between race car and standard Z432-R . I think standard Z432-R is very accurate for the race manual which is describing Z432-R specification . Kats

The pull-in voltage is the voltage at which the relay will be guaranteed to pull-in. So a relay with a pull in spec of 8v means the relay is guaranteed to actuate if you put 8 Volts across the coil. Less voltage might not pull in, but eight volts is guaranteed to pull in.

The fuel pump relay on the 260Z has a low pick up because of the circuit utilized. You want the pickup to be lower than the typical system voltage. Here are two examples that may give you an idea why: When cranking the engine, the battery voltage (an therefore the system voltage) drops down to 10VDC or so. You want the fuel injection and fuel pump relays to pick up. The alternator dies. You still want systems to operate properly until the voltage has decayed some.

OK - I will pull the pump next weekend and reinstall. Av8ferg- I actually have a new Nissan sprocket never used that I can do the swap with. First course of action is this oil pump issue. I will get the sprocket in a few weeks. I will return with results next week - thanks everyone

Yes, there is a threshold voltage for generating enough of a field in the coil to pull in the contacts. There is a different value at which point the relay releases. @anthony_c I think this link may have what you're looking for. http://bowery.com/maserati/home/files/bosch relays.pdf

Purchase and successful assembly of this https://puralty.com/collections/mechanical-masterpieces/products/marble-coaster should be pre-requisite training for manual transmission rebuilding.

Just FYI... The ZX ditributors with the E12-92 module can be used just like the ones with the E12-80 module. If you have or can get a ZX dizzy with the E12-92 it will work exactly like the E12-80. When you just use the C and B connectors leaving I & W disconnected gives the same timing curve as the E12-80 module. The E12-92 has been running just fine on my series 1 240Z since 2003. Another reference is in this thread. https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/116513-e12-92-e12-80-a.html

I have both the futufab bumpers and the SS from Harrington. Futufab are the ones I went with on my car because they fit better. I'm located in Greer...