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I agree, there is definitely a steeper learning curve with these. That being said, I really enjoy the challenge of re-building these. It is nice to clean everything (love that Gumout spray) and re-assemble with fresh parts. Just got the throttle shafts in. I like the coating and it is definitely durable as they use this stuff on racing pistons. I did a quick test fit and they fit in nicely. Not too loose, not too tight. Not too worried about the color difference as most of this will be covered up...Pics are a little dark

OK guys and gals...... next up on the Pay It Forward thread.... In case anyone has forgot what Marty posted way back in 2009, nearly a decade ago (and yes, the thread carries on, Thank you @Marty Rogan) Up for grabs this time is one of the last remaining bits of a 1973 240Z, VIN HLS30-1630XX HEATER CONTROL arse'Y Includes a 3 lever control arm arse'y for adjusting various functions of the cabin ventilation back in the day. I cannot verify if it 'ran when parked'. I did NOT verify if the fan control knob changed positions. I also DID NOT use pliers or vise-grips to check if it worked. There are NO KNOBS or any type of BEZEL included with this. The pictures below show what is included. Please note: These parts have been sitting in my covered patio, but not climate controlled patio for SEVERAL YEARS. I CANNOT guarantee if ANYTHING works. Some cables were seized, however, they were removed to simplfy the shipping process, but they are in the box. Also included are the 4 cable clamps, if I counted correctly. I have already boxed the item up. I had to add layers of cardboard so the levers would not try to do any site-seeing on their travels. I apologize up front about the picture quality (and the dirty kitchen floor), I'm not a professional photographer, professional cleaner, or a shady used car salesman... All I ask from you is you to pay USPS Flat rate shipping for (what I believe is) a MEDIUM box, current rate in the CONUS is $13 and some change. If, after reviewing the pictures, you want this item. please reply to this post and then send me a PM. It's just that simple. Thank you for helping me de-junk parts that may be valuable to you, but have less value than $0.02 to the scrap man... EDIT: I HAVE THE RIGHT TO REFUSE THIS OFFER BASED ON JOIN DATE, POST COUNT OR REPUTATION...

Finally got the car back again. I had to get all the 'new' paint stripped/engine bay shot cleaned and done again as I had Micro blistering. Killed by joy for the car for a while. However its back again now, looking better than ever. Painter did his best to keep the panel edges crisp where I asked. Engine bay detail on the paint is about 10x better.

This is the engine which has never repainted. I can see the paint can color matches this non repainted engine block . I found hose clamps at a water pipe has over sprayed, this is interesting. Anyway only Japanese owners can have this paint can , we don’t have a judged show in Japan like ZCON , but I am sure this paint can deserves for a gold medallion car if we had a ZCON in Japan . Kats

I will be there to represent the West Coast. Got my hotel reservations made....staying at the timeshare Sent from my C6902 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Every 240 that has won a Gold Medallion for the past x many years has used the engine block paint from Banzai Motorworks.

No harm, no foul. We flat top owners have to have a thick skin! And yes, I thought I might get some comments on that claim, and it was 40 years ago when I was using the car that way, so my memory might be fading. ? But I really do not recall ever having a problem starting the car after those sales calls. Maybe inland LA county (Whittier, City of Industry, Azusa) didn't get all that hot then. it was, of course, before Global Warming ? . Or maybe my lack of success made the calls too short.... I did have a terrible starting problem one time in 1974, but that was a cold starting problem after a cold night at a lodge high in the Canadian Rockies west of Banff while driving across Canada. Possibly I forgot to crack the hood? ? I certainly was aware of the what was then called vapor lock (and we now know was percolation issues). That was the reason for the V3 kit the dealer added to my car shortly after I bought it. (and maybe they did a better job of that installation) And hearing the stories in the club meetings/ etc. did make me cautious about stopping in hot weather. Actually, this does lead to a discussion of what was the root cause of the extra heat in the flat top cars. But that discussion should be for another thread. When my car gets back from Motorman7 with the flat tops back on, I will be interested to see if I have a percolation problem, although without air conditioning now, I'm not sure how much driving I'll be doing in hot weather. I'm eagerly looking forward to experimenting with it!

www.240zrubberparts.com I am making a new batch of parts over the next few days....

Losing 4” of ride height can mean you’ve also limited your options for what wheels and tires will clear. Put the car on the ground with stock wheels and work from there.

I've had a set from 'Amy' at bumpermobile, ordered, tracking details sent a week later, two weeks later they arrived, cost about £520 delivered to the UK. Chroming here is so so so expensive. I'm going to cut the single piece front up to make a Monte Carlo spec front.

The yellow wire only gets power when the key is turned to Start. No power there when the key is on. No offense, but you need to go through the sequence of how things work. It will help your troubleshooting efforts. Sounds like the points might have been closed when the key was on, or the points distributor is wired incorrectly with constant power, and the engine stopped with the points closed. Looks like you overheated the coil. Voltage is not measured across + and - , it's measured from + to ground, and - to ground. You're making progress. Good luck.

If they are the same manufacturer the quality is very good!

Hubs have been made up, struggled with the rears binding, all correct castings and the correct distance piece, ended with with a copper shim to allow nut torque but free rotation. I've worked out discs for the front. All fits under a 14" wheel, without wheel spacers. Not decided on wheel colour. I fancy a clash with the orange so I might go a green or gold shade.

if anything it just shows that these 'medals' are given out without any proper knowledge. Not every head/oil would have overspray as it was a hand assembled item.

Hi Patcon , I didn’t know it is difficult to obtain the can outside of Japan . Today I painted the can to see how the color look like . I sprayed it on my spare L24-004556 , just a little bit right side rear end . In the picture, I held an alternator bracket side by side for a comparison . This bracket is the original , never repainted In the past . I see the can color is a little bit different from the bracket, but I see the can color matches perfectly to the original engine block which is in my orange 1972 240Z , never repainted in the past . Kats

I have dealer experience from back in the day with my 73 240Z. Bought in July 1973 in SLC, UT. It was fine that summer. Over the winter I drove a bunch to both Denver and Albuquerque multiple times. Seems like the next summer is when I had my first vapor lock, more like a loss of power, like 25 to 30 percent, very noticeable but it still ran. I could always start it after being parked, but it would take some cranking. Took it in multiple times. They put on the fuel rail insulation, that didn't really help. They added the electric fuel pump, helped a little. On hot days on the way home from work I'd pop the hood latch like mentioned before. It would help some, always got me home. They fiddled with the flat tops a bunch, but never hinted that the carbs sould be swapped for round tops. It was pretty much like that the rest of the ~20 years I drove it. Other than the really hot days in July and August the flat tops were fine for over 100,000 miles. Wilkes

Spent the weekend installing my new interior. Looks great but was surprised at how much more quiet it was. And, no more exhaust fumes. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I wouldn't be surprised if the dealers just pulled them off and replaced them with round tops as well. Sure would have saved a lot of time for their techs rather than having to understand and properly set-up the flat tops. I wonder. Anyone here have any dealer experience from back when these cars were still going to the dealers for service? What was the internal Nissan reputation of the flat tops?

https://zcardepot.com/collections/gaskets/products/cylinder-head-gasket-oem-l28-280z-280zx Pricey by comparison, but it is OEM Nissan if that is what you really want.

Never mind.

I know that the round top “superiority” is a common belief in the Z community, but that doesn’t make it true. I never had the vapor lock issue with my 73 even though I was making almost daily sales call with it in inland Los Angeles county in the late 70s. It is my belief that the extra heat under the hood of the 73 and 74 models is the real culprit. (I do recall cracking the hood open during some of those sales calls on really hot days) And you as you pointed out, even round top cars have had some vapor lock issues. Frankly I do not know why I did not have vapor lock issue. My car was a very early build ‘73 (10/72) and maybe it had some 72 elements causing less heat? (exhaust manifold? Fuel rail mounting brackets? ??) It is my belief that Z mechanics (and Ztherapy) likely looked at the market size of flat tops vs round tops and decided there was more money in replacing the flat tops than in learning how to tune and repair the flat tops. I personally paid over $500 in 1980 to replace my flat tops with round tops (at over 100,000 miles on the car) with no improvement in performance or driveability. Now motorman7 is restoring my car and “Bringing back the Flat Tops” and I’m eager to get back on the road again in my “flat top” Z.

Except that the round tops are truly a negative for this car from both an originality standpoint and a performance standpoint. Our do you still subscribe to the erroneous belief that the flat top carbs, with their advanced features like the separate idle circuit and other features of the SU HIF design are inferior? I'm putting the flat tops BACK onto my '73 because they worked great for 110,000 miles before I fell for the pitch of the mechanics who claimed all kinds of advantages for the round tops. $500 later NONE of those claims came true. Seems like a lot of shops found it easier to pitch expensive replacements than learn how to properly tune or repair flat tops. I hope the buyer of that '73 corrects the error in the car.

Thanks Gavin , additional pictures are fun to look at . Hi RS02 , let’s enjoy our Z together. Always nice to see owners in overseas. Kameari Engine Works is very popular in Japan , L Gata engine builders can’t do their work without Kameari. Recently Kameari is listing almost every S20 Engine’s “ necessary “ parts , that is also very helpful. Some of them are made in outside Japan , oh , I am waiting to hear about “ S20 replacement cylinder head “ which is made in Thailand. Kats

Yeah sorry for the previous post of wrong part #. It is 76840-76841 thanks for posting that 240260280.