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But only if you have a time machine or a Delorean. They shut down quite some time ago. Dennis

Two things I can add to Zeds response. Behind the black cover on the afm is a sweeping contact vane. Check that to make sure it's clean and shiny. I had a spider web on mine one time, moisture and carbon buildup can be suspect too. The other is the pcv dumping oily air in front of the throttle blade and gumming the throttle body up. That could cause the blade to not shut completely letting air past and high rpm. I clean them with an old toothbrush and lacquer thinner. When I'm on my laptop I will link some info with great pictures from member formally known as "Blue's tech tips" now I guess we call it Philip's tech tips Or 240260280'S Tech Tips. You'll have to plug the bcdd vacuum port from inside the throttle body if I remember right. That's another tech tip I'll post for you. You don't want any open hoses or hose bungs to suck in air.

Engine speed is controlled by the amount of air it can get. It's always trying to get more. So if you want to reduce engine speed you have to reduce the amount of air available. The quantity of fuel available will only control the quality of the engine speed, not the quantity. The quantity of fuel in a gasoline engine is always match to the amount of air, to control the qulaity of the combustion. So, your first task should be to control the quantity of air getting in to the intake manifold. The throttle blade should control almost all of it, especially since the BCDD is gone. One area that people tend to miss is the PCV system. It is connected to the intake manifold and the engine's crankcase. So any air that gets in to the crankcase, like through the valve cover, can get in to the intake manifold, and cause a high idle. Normally, extra air would cause some increase but a little more would cause a decrease as the mixture gets too lean. But, if the ECU or FPR is allowing extra fuel, the extra air can cause the idle to rise a lot since there is extra fuel to go with it. The PCV diagram in the Emissions chapter is worth studying. It will give some ideas about where excess air could be getting in and which hoses to plug or connect properly.

In conclusion. I cleaned everything up, after removing all the diaphragms, and reassembled the BCDD with my spring and got it back into the car. A little fiddling later and the car now operates much better than it did. Is it perfect, no, but now I don't keep the high idle when coming to a stop and the car is in neutral. I think I can still do some minor tweaking as the idle is a tad high now. I am going to pull the solenoid harness and see what the RPMs are at at idle. I was doing everything by feel and hearing. Need to put some eyes on the tach. Thanks everyone for your input!

I think the latest option is probably the most realistic. Any discount available for the less than perfect bumper and will the insurance cover the extra expense of repair and re-chrome? Good luck at the show this weekend. Question for the knowledgeable. Are the bumper guards from a 77 compatible (current wrecked bumper) with the bumper guards on an early 76 (replacement bumper)? It would be nice to be able to select the best looking ones from either bumper.

I had a local Drag Racer who was having troubles with blowing up TH 400's. A local Tranny shop who were supposedly experts at building Drag Transmissions. had been building them. I had one of my Autocross TH400's up for sale ( just switched car to manual tranny ) and it was filled with all sorts of hard core Trans-Go race parts. He wasn't running an auxiliary cooler or a trans temp gauge. I told him to put both in and immediately switch to Synthetics. He put temp gauge in the pan first and ran an event that weekend. He called me the following Monday. He was seeing over 350F ( in the Tranny Pan ) after his burn out and staging on the Transbrake!!! Needless to say he was putting a big arse cooler and fan in ASAP.. Fortunately he had installed the Amsoil Synthetic transmission fluid as I had recommended. About three years later, I ran into him at the local Strip. The same TH400 that I sold him was still going strong. Only thing he did was install fresh Synthetic Fluid ( Amsoil ) and a new filter at the beginning of the season. After the second season on the transmission he stopped pulling the pan to inspect it for any wear every couple of races, as the fluid and pan were spotless every time. Clean fluid, cool fluid... and a decent build = no headaches

Reverse 5th Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Note to Self: Never feed spicey boiled peanuts to the dog. He doesn't know better but now you do.

UPDATE... I spoke with the owner of the mass of Z cars and parts in Cleveland, Tn. that "thumpgun" has been involved with. IF a great condition bumper is among them, and they will send photos of it to Rex at the body shop, Rex will send a worker there to pick it up. This is really big! The owner is attempting to get this information now. He can't do it himself, as he is in FL and won't be back to Cleveland until tomorrow. But he will let me know asap. Second choice is that if I have to accept the dented one from Quality, Rex said he can have it repaired AND re-chromed! I can get it on for the car show, and return it for those repairs afterward. Light at the end of the tunnel. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the good thoughts and prayers! Jai

Mark, did you guys do this ? http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/alberta-saskatchewan-fires-national-wrap-1.4359754

https://z31performance.com/forum/z31-performance-upgrade-forums/driveline-aa/569-jatco-3n71b-4n71b-automatic-trans-buildup-information. Link to what I did to mine. I also picked a manual valve body from keas. My torque converter was restalled to 3k. I bent input shafts and ballooned the converter if I brake boosted in low. I switched to brake boosting in 2nd then dropping into low when leaving. Never damaged the trans doing that. The guy that sells shift kits on ebay has a good kit if you don't want a manual vb from keas.

I have the engine back!!! So a good used crankshaft (10,000miles) new bushings for the conrods and main bearings and new oil control rings. The 3 front oily cylinders were because of the oil control rings, they were buggered up. I'll post up some pics soon but I just got it back today.

Funny thing with Auto's. I ran modified Camaro's in Autocross for years. In what would be equivalent to SCCA Prepared clas ( Really soft Goodyear slicks ) . I originally ran am Auto then switched to an 4 speed stick. Car was faster with the Auto. Geared to run 60 MPH in first gear ( 3.3 rear end Ratio and 7,000 RPM ) . Auto trans was modified extensively with many parts from Trans-Go including full manual shifting at any speed and RPM. 3,000 RPM Stall. Torque convertor. Torque convertor gave better Torque multiplication out of corners and was smoother to drive. Only put in the 4 speed when I started doing Hillclimbs and track day events. As far as HD parts go. Look for online Auto Matic Parts suppliers such as ATS. send them an E-Mail. You may even have some suppliers available locally. There are normally HD parts available for all types of transmissions. HD clutch plates and bands made out of vbetter material should be fairly easy to get. Shift kits may be available or you can make modifications on your own if you have the knowledge. Most shift kits involve raising pressures with internal springs and changing shift points with the governor. Band apply pressure can be adjusted with springs or by increasing Accumulator piston Apply area with special pistons. TransGo is a really good supplier for modified parts. They may have something for Jatco's. You will probably have to call them by phone though. Jatco parts may not be listed in their catalogs. I'm pretty sure there is a publication by ATSG Technical or HP Books on how to rebuild and modify Jatco transmissions. I've seen it at a local speed shop. I'll try and find some links for you later, but I've got to run tight now.

Nothing like setting fire to the world with tank rounds! This is a shot of the old C2 Leopard tank being brought to the range for its final shoot before retirement. We use the newer Leopard 2 now

Got the exhaust and intake manifold installed. Threw on the air cleaner just for pics. Picked up the radiator from the repair shop and attached it, but not very happy with the radiator shop paint job. Will probably remove it and clean up some of the drips and solder remnants, then re-paint. Will have to get some of Jay's braided hose and some nice wire clamps next. Will also get the master cylinder and clutch master in shortly, then I think I will be ready for the fenders. Pics below.

Did you have to reroute the front and rear brake lines? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I see something that was in my truck and blue Monday. That looks GREAT Jai! Those guys jumped on it doggone it. Those black & white Bears will love your fabulously cute little red car.

SM needles provided by Ztherapy when the 3 screws carbs where restored by them. Ill drive it today and take a picture of the plugs. Should i just race the car for 10 mins and then shut the engine off or normal driving on traffic jam and then shut the car down?