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Yep, still alive - Just Lurking. Thanks for checking on me!

Just keep your 240Z in the box it came in and it will be fine.

These are old classic cars and look better with some sidewall versus really low profile tires. Just my opinion...

lNo need to rush. Life is more important. I read the Tom Monroe Engine Rebuild book's section on engine noise and it mentions rod knock can occur on deceleration. If the noise is still there, it may be best to drop the pan and see what is going on. A first step would be to do an oil change and filter the oil to see if there are bearing fragments.

Mark, Take care the next 40 days. chas

I had the 16 inch Panasport rims on my gold 70 for a short while. Eventually transferred them over to my Yellow Z. This is what the wheels looked like on the gold car. I am pretty sure the tires are 205/60 - 16's

You know? An old salt like me is always thinking outside the box when answering a question like this. Or perhaps thinking ABOUT the box. My answer is no, drive her hard but NEVER put her to bed wet. Wet while driving is preferred sometimes. Kinda gives you that "all lubed up" sort of feeling.

open the hatch after washing look at the flat piece over the tail light area, now look in the corners. See that nice pool of water sitting right where the metal is seamed. Now look at various rusted out Z's same area. Just pop the hatch after rain/wash, wipe it out with a towel. I have heard that AGM batteries work better as far as acid on the surface of the battery (which gets water on it and then drains down the side, hopefully to a well sorted tray and drain tube). the only real surface rust on mine was under the brake master from being striped of paint by the brake fluid. you should drive a better protected modern car on winter roads treated with salts. Worst thing in the world for a Z.

I've been looking for a front engine rear wheel drive sports car for a while. Everything form RX7-8's, miatas, toyota MR2's, even the new FRS/BRZ toyota 86's.I found this '75 for a price I couldn't pass up. It wasn't really a car I had looked at, but when I went to look at this one, and saw the great condition it was in, I had to get it... It came with the stock front bumper as well as a new, pre-75 fifty pound lighter version that I will be installing. There is almost no rust on this thing, just a few little surface rust issues here and there. The engine runs great as it only has 75K miles on it. One brake line running to the rear has a hole in it so I had to tow it to it's new home. I'll fix that though... I just ordered the full stainless steel brake line kit, SS braided hoses, upgraded front rotors and pads, new front calipers, rear sport disc brake conversion kit. full poly bushing kit, and front and rear adjustable Tokico shocks. I've got some big plans for this car. Too bad Borla doesn't have a full exhaust for this thing...

I live in NJ as well. Avoid salt like the plague, and keep it clean. Make sure all the drains work properly, make sure there's no dirt or leag build up holding moisture, etc. As for water, if you wash the car, or get rained on while out and about, and then put it away in a dry garage, I can't imagine that the water will stay there long enough to cause any damage. Maybe I'm not being paranoid enough, but I doubt that water from washing is going to cause damage, assuming the paint job is any good. Exception would be if it's pooling up somewhere in large enough amounts that it doesn't dry out quickly.

I live in Oregon and drive in the wet often, but it's clean water. My car has some rust, but it's under the battery tray from lead salts from the battery. Good luck resisting. Wheel spray from your car and others will travel. Salt works fast.

man, this car is EASY on tear down! wow! door squeegee chrome piece came out super easy, as did rear window. the door lock is really the only piece that i'm up in the air on trying to pull or not, but i might as well. it'll make for a really clean paint job. i decided i'm going for it. the bronze is just too cool to me, and i think this is an appropriate body style for it. now i just need to figure out what color code is gonna be the closest... here's a pic of the car before i started pulling the trim off. exactly as it came to me.

IMO, drive it normally before checking plug color. General opinion, that I've read, is the SM's are a bit richer a low RPM's.

Yep - this topic has been beat to death- so let the beatings continue! 17x8.5" +4 offset . 225 will BARELY rub if I bottom out over a bump full fuel and cargo. What rubs is the inner arch rear quarter which can only be altered with flares. Same wheels with +10 offset I bet I could get 245's not to rub, but you would have to run spacers up front ( this is with stock spring diameter , lowered 1.5") Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile