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I've been looking for a front engine rear wheel drive sports car for a while. Everything form RX7-8's, miatas, toyota MR2's, even the new FRS/BRZ toyota 86's.I found this '75 for a price I couldn't pass up. It wasn't really a car I had looked at, but when I went to look at this one, and saw the great condition it was in, I had to get it... It came with the stock front bumper as well as a new, pre-75 fifty pound lighter version that I will be installing. There is almost no rust on this thing, just a few little surface rust issues here and there. The engine runs great as it only has 75K miles on it. One brake line running to the rear has a hole in it so I had to tow it to it's new home. I'll fix that though... I just ordered the full stainless steel brake line kit, SS braided hoses, upgraded front rotors and pads, new front calipers, rear sport disc brake conversion kit. full poly bushing kit, and front and rear adjustable Tokico shocks. I've got some big plans for this car. Too bad Borla doesn't have a full exhaust for this thing...

And 5 yrs later I can answer my own question and agree with the rest of the guys, I have the technoversion RT mount with poly snubber on top (touching) and a stock diff mount on the bottom, No extra vibrations, No clunk, a very good combination.

Btw, you can tell the "wide ratio" and "close ratio" FS5W71B transmission apart by several external differences. Speedo adaptor retaining bolt, the exhaust hanger support, commonly known as ears and reverse lock-out mechanism. The "close ratio" came in two versions. 1st to 4th are the same, but 5th is slightly different. If the boxes ars still original, you should have two of the later version of the "close ratio". The general consensus is they changed around 6/1980 give or take a couple of weeks. How to identify - F5W71B Wide and Close ratio transmission (1).pdf

Plus the is no need for a R200 unless you have high horsepower or abusing it in some other way. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have the polyurethane GM mount like wheee!'s and the PU mustache bar mounts. My experience is that it's the mustache bar mounts that transmit most of the gear whine in to the cabin. I was able to reduce that noise dramatically by creating a small air gap at the bushing. Typically the bushing is clamped tightly in place and that allows vibration to be transmitted. The differentiation in usage is that wheee! and me are using the system as a mount. Diseazd is using his as a movement snubber, or strap replacement.

No one likes a bragger.... but me, congrats!!!

If you find some let me know. I've been looking for the exhaust tips for awhile myself.

Hey guys. Been a lurker for the past couple of months. Finally getting around to my first post. Come from the world of messing with 90's Volvo's so its been an interesting switch up for me as of late. Currently looking into replacing the suspension on my '76 280Z for a month or so now. Not looking to do any serious autocross or crazy stuff like that, just want to replace the stock suspension with something nice that will look good when done. Looking at the coilover options right now but a little divided on what route I want to go exactly. I've been reading up on the available options and due to there being many threads, some being very old (5 or so years). Im a little confused about the options, especially with what struts are currently available from what suppliers. I've read up a bit on strut sectioning and with the help of my roommate we should be able to accomplish the task. (Tools, welder, etc.) If I do go this option is there a good combo of strut and springs out there right now? I've also come across these: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Have there been any negative comments on these outside they cost more than making your own coilover setup? Appreciate any help you guys can give even if its pointing me in the direction of a couple good threads. -Tom

Bummer.