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She is on the road! first time in about 20 yrs, Matt tuned it from idle to about 3200 rpm so I'm trying not to push it too hard until I can get down to his shop this week and finish the tune on the highway. Got the TB's balanced using my old motorcycle manometer, evened out TB 123 and 4 then pulled the tubes from 1&2 and put the on 5&6 and balanced them with 3&4. I'm leaving as much outside trim and badging off until Jody gets the cut & buff done at the end of the month. Years ago I read somewhere that you must do a second torquing of the wheel nuts after a few miles when you have installed new wheel studs, that came flooding back into my head after I heard some clicking happening on the front wheels, I was only a mile from home so headed back. Two nuts were loose and all the rest of them needed re torquing That's one of the reasons I never let myself get too far from home when shaking out the bugs, I had a list of 8 things to work on before I even got out of the driveway. But the thing I have been most concerned about was the 1.75" drop of the steering rack, that the car wasn't going to have that great handling anymore, very pleased to report that the TTT off set tie rods and the bumpsteer spacers did the trick, the handling is spot on, nothing strange, it all feels very familiar. No bad sounds coming from the LSD OBX rear end and I did lay a little patch just to make sure both tires were leaving rubber on the road, the braking isn't as good as I hoped for but there is still room for tweaking. So far it is feeling very good, very much like the old Z but a lot more power and NO squeaks, pretty sure that is the stitch welding. Going to try and get the rest of the tuning and window tints done this week and I guess it is time for another appraisal.

These belong to my friend and I've been helping him arrange them. There's a few more cars that we haven't gotten to. They are all in various states of quality. But as you see nonetheless wonderful Z's. He also has a few other marques that are leaving as well. He's keeping a few Z's and parts. There are a lot of parts to go through so it will take us quite a while. It is sad that some of them are very rough and some aren't as bad. I understand both comments. And I also see opportunity to save a Z or get donor parts. It's metal so someone, somewhere can fix it or bring it back to life and use it. Thanks for looking guys. PLEASE LIMIT CALLS AND TEXTS TO EASTERN STANDARD TIME BETWEEN 10AM AND 11PM. THANK YOU.

I'm about 2.5 hours. Come up with something I can't refuse! "North bound and down, loaded up and truckin'". "Watch ole Datsun runnin' we gone do what pays the easy money"

I saw one with Tennessee plates so yeah the land of cotton and some other good stuff comes from down here, look away look away. It's hotter than 3 foot up a goats arse today and the next few months though so be thankful for where you are ole Buddy!

I see a lot more opportunity in that collection than I see depression. I could spend a day looking and letting my mind fantasize about the possibilities. Oh I wish I were in the land of cotton, Old times there are not forgotten. Look away, Look away, Look away DixZie Land.

I see that link in my post #30 is unavailable now for some reason. When we went to the waaay better version Mike's got now somethings didn't make it. No big deal I still have all my photos and remember the threads that were most helpful. We're supposed to get some much needed rain on Monday. If so I'll be able to spend some time on my laptop and can, hopefully, put up some helpful info and tips/tricks that helped me out a lot. That is a weekend job and the tank liner should be allowed a week to cure. It's a PITA but if you do it right you'll never have to worry about again. Cliff

I just finished restoring a 280Z that had dealer installed AC from ARA (who is no longer in business). There was a company on Ebay last August advertising a "Underhood Upgrade Kit" that I called. The company was Air Manufacturing Corp in Graham TX (1-800-900-9560).They were helpful and knew what my ARA system consisted of. I wound up only using the original evaporator and the mounting bracket. They supplied all the other required components. (134 Compressor, expansion valve, hoses, condensor fittings etc. Cost was $725 I had a local AC place charge and balance it and it works great. It cools the car perfectly. I was expecting marginal performance because the evaporator was so small . It mounted behind the 2 vents in the center of the dash.

Lol, think it over Greg! Make a list of things you're looking for and we'll see if we have them. Maybe you can come up one weekend and get something. You're really close by. Probably about an hour away. Check with your club friends and see if anyone is looking for something. Just let me know if you want to come up. Thanks for looking Greg!

Bart, you're my new best friend! . But why are you tempting me when I just had to buy a new computer!

If your at Zcon I can teach you. Fingers and ears for air flow meters. Exhaust smell and finger soot wipes for fuel.

That exact photo is my desktop wallpaper.

I'm here in TN. And you ain't kidding it's miserable hot. I made those photo's this morning and was soaked with sweat before I could get finished. Nothing like humidity! Where we are is lower Southeast TN and basically 2 hours from Huntsville AL, Atlanta GA, Knoxville TN. About 3 hours from Birmingham AL, Nashville TN, 6 hours from Charlotte NC and 8 hours from Memphis TN.

I think this is a dead giveaway that he has EFI

Well thank you sir! That's awful nice of you to go out of your way instead of just clicking "LIKE". In my expirences when you get on the brakes and you get a shaky wheel your rotors are warped, usually from being hot then driving through a puddle of water on the roadside. Hot then cold warps them. Try a cut to get it out but if it's too bad and they'll tell you at the parts store if they're too far gone so you'll buy new ones. They're only $20 or so bucks so not too bad. When and if you decide to do that I would reccomend new wheel bearings to. They aren't expensive, $5 to $10 per side. There's info on this site a bbb out driving the old ones out and the new ones on. Get a tub of grease and slop them full. I'll try to find my post from when I did it in the morning, not too easy on this phone. Thanks again for saying thanks, that's what drives me to help out others.

Put the trans in neutral. Otherwise you'll be turning the rest of the drive train along with the engine. The engine should turn over relatively easy without the plugs and in neutral.

And (just because it's Z related?) here's a neat shot of my home built level manometer being used to sync my cycle carbs. And you can see a corner of the Z in the shot as well!! Nurse!! IV STAT!!!

That bottle manometer style won't work for the Z application, at least not in stock form. In order for that device to work, you have to be able to isolate the engine side (high vacuum side) of the two carbs from eachother. Problem is that the Z carbs are tied together by the balance tube. In order for that manometer style to work, you would have to block off the balance tube passageway somehow. You would also need vacuum ports on the engine side for both carbs, and I don't believe those exist for the round tops. IIRC, the front carb has a vacuum nipple, but it's ported vacuum, not full vacuum. I don't believe the rear carb has any provision at all for a vacuum connection. So the bottom line is in order to use a manometer style device like that, you would have to disable the balance tube and you would also have to come up with a way to supply two vacuum nipples, one on each intake manifold. (The aspiring creative inventor could suggest that a pair of nippley devices could be bolted to the intake manifolds where the balance tube usually goes that would both segregate the intake vacuums AND provide vacuum measurement connections at the same time.)

One other thing to check on the wheels. Make sure that the center hub centric is not machined too small. The wheel will not sit flush with the wheel hub. It can be installed kocked at a slight angle. This won't show up on a balancing machine ( when checking for wheel runout ) as balancing machines use tapered arbors.

OK, lets see if this works, <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dR8bHf6C-Qc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Nope, lets try this,

Well I've gone completely through the fuel system including having the tank redone. No change. Tomorrow its dizzy time. Don