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The turn signal switch in my 240z is actually a "restored" switch I bought in April 2015 from Parsignault Parts on Ebay. It has worked flawlessly up until April of this year when the right side rear would not blink but the circuit would turn off the brake light. So when I was at a stop light with the right turn signal selected, my right front turn signal flashed but the right rear light was dark with only the left brake light on. With ZCON coming in June I wanted to get this taken care of. After some troubleshooting I determined the problem was with the switch, UGH! The switch was not completing the rear turn signal circuit when activated so I carefully opened up the switch and removed the rocker contact, bent the tab up a little, and reinstalled. On the bench it tested fine but once back in the car and a few more cycles were performed, it would stop working. The thin metal of the rocker contact has weakened over time and so I spoke to Dave Irwin about restoring. He said he could do it and should run $70 which sounded very fair. Before I spent any money I wanted to have another go at it. Since the metal was fatigued I figured I would add some metal to the contacts using some rosin flux and solder. Here it is with the first side done on the left. Then I did the other side. Knowing this amount of solder was too much I started filing it down and reinstalling it on the switch base to check it. It took a fair amount of trial and error and I ended up filing off approx. 90% of the solder. I didn't take a picture of the final state of the contact but needless to say it worked and only took about three hours of my time total with all the troubleshooting and work I performed. If your switch is not working properly, take the time to troubleshoot it. All of these switches are between 40 and almost 50 years old and may just need some cleaning or in my case, a little extra metal added back to make them consistently work again.

im still waiting on parts interior parts , and the engine is pretty much done, so i figured i may as well get the rest of the body work done. tried finding inner fender seals, not much luck, and $30 each? no thanks. did a little searching and found this at slum depot. $14 for 16 feet of rubber seal i ended up trimming the 90* end off, leaving about 3/4" and the 45* angled part. a bit of weatherstrip adhesive and i have new fender seals for a lot less $$$ fenders are on. still need a little final adjustment, but looking good

I am getting ready to adjust the valves prior to putting the refreshed valve cover on. I did take the time to wash the Z's garage mate the 72 FJ40 (restoration coming to completion).

Dmorales you have pretty much SOLD me! Your interior lights look fantastic.

Once all those LEDs were in the dash, I realized the illumination from the HVAC control and cigarrete lighter were almost invisible. I had a BAS9 five LED bulb in the HVAC control already so I bought some LED strips and a BAS9 adapter socket, lined the HVAC housing with aluminum tape and got it to light up nicely to match the rest of the instrument panel in intensity. I had neglected the cigarette lighter. I found a vintage identical replacement with an illuminated trim ring but still used the original lighter element, swapped it's incandescent bulb for another BAS9 LED and added a bit of flair to it as well. Dave

I went with all white LEDs in the instrument panel to unify the look of the LEDs on the maplight, courtesy light and glovebox light. Since I painted all my instrument needles fluo orange to match the second hand in the calendar clock, the white light picks up that orange nicely (much crisper than with green light). I left the original incandescent bulbs in the turn signal arrows because I just needed their green color to come through and they looked bluish with the white LEDs. The charge light on my voltmeter is also the stock bulb. If you have some incandescent bulbs in the circuit the light dimmer switch actually works much better than with all LEDs.

Since I have LEDs in all of my exterior lights, I went with LEDs on the turn signal gauges, too. One thing to remember is that with LEDs on your exterior lights, you should use an electronic flasher unit.

I have 1. PM me. Thanks, TimsZ

You might need to remove the green lenses for the gauges to get the BA9 bulbs to fit. I removed the lenses from the gauges in my 260Z and went with green bulbs. I get good illumination from them.

Same as the item I refurbished and recently sold. The current price is not bad but I suspect shipping to the US will be a bit costly.

I had the exact same problem as djwarner although I run triple weber sidedrafts rather than a down draft. I ultimately concluded the same thing which was gas evaporation. My car is a late manufacture 260Z which had both the mechanical pump as well as the electric pump in the back, but the way it was wired from the factory did not allow the electric pump to actually start operating until the engine was running. So I removed the mechanical pump completely and rewired the electric pump so it turned on when my key was in the "on" position. This allows the electric pump to prime the carbs after sitting for a few days / weeks and my car now starts right up. My concern in the way I configured the system was that in the event of an accident the fuel pump would keep running and the risk of fuel being pumped all over hot engine components. So I did also install an inertia switch which will kill the power to the pump in the event of an accident.

Over the winter, I restored my aluminum louvers. Above is a pic, before I restored them. They are the screw in type, with the hinge at the top and barrel latch at the bottom. They were installed by a previous owner, I like them and they are my preferred style of louver for the 240z, but I wouldn't have installed them myself (don't like the idea of putting screws into the hatch). The louvers rattled A LOT, and once removed and weatherstripping pulled off, it was easy to see why. The outside frame was cracked, clean through on the right side, and the center spine was cracked through, both above and below the middle louver. The only things keeping the louvers together was the left side of the frame and the weatherstripping! Over time, the rivets get lose, allow the louvers to rattle, leading to fatigue and cracking, which allows more movement, rattles and cracks, etc... I took the louvers in to a local shop, and had the cracks welded (not entirely pleased with the welding job, but the cracks are fixed); I drilled out the rivets along the center spine and replaced them; I applied black caulking on the underside of the horizontal slats at the center spine (the idea being to further reduce any movement between the center spine and horizontal slats, the caulking can't be seen when the louvers are installed); Repainted them in satin black; Polished the hinges (would have liked to replace the hinges due to some corrosion, but couldn't find a good, chrome replacement); Modified some door weatherstripping I had in the garage and installed (1st used weatherstrip adhesive, but wasn't happy with the adhesion so used more of the black caulking and clamps, instead). Overall, I'm extremely pleased with the results. The louvers no longer rattle at all! The trunk closes with a thunk, and my 240z sounds SO much better put together over rough roads. Truly, I can't believe the difference this has made in the driving experience! So if you have louvers installed, and they rattle, they can be fixed to eliminate the rattles. I'll let you all know how the repairs stand up, following a season of driving. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hopefully one of my three cats got them. Made some good progress today, finished installing the front suspension so the car can come off the jack stands now and back on to wheels, got the engine bay wiring harness in, door glass and quarter windows in and started playing around with the leather trans tunnel cover, also almost finished the firewall insulation. Starting to get more comfortable with contact cement and the tack off times.

I unrestored my valve cover! My valve cover was over restored. I polished it again and then blasted it with walnut shells. That gave it a nice original casting look without that over restored look. I like the results. Of course then I applied the P2 sticker to the front.

I run a 5 speed transmission and block from a 78 280z The original head has been worked along with the original carbs and good cam gives miles of smiles

Wes, If you are going to tackle the cooling system I would advise you to do the entire system on the first go around, the system works very well in stock configuration but the inside water passages of the engine block and rad have to be CLEAN. Rust and corrosion don't transfer heat very well so you need to get that crap out first, while the system is all still together run some good quality radiator flush through it and don't forget to open the heater valve as well. I have also used CLR on occasion and it worked well. Then after the engine cools off flush the whole system with fresh water from the garden hose until it runs clean. You will probably be the first guy in 40yrs to have cleaned that system so expect a lot of brown crap to come out. Then replace the rad, thermostat and maybe the water pump, no more anxiety gauge The stock 4 spd tranny is a very stable fun unit to drive, a 5th gear is nice to have if you do a lot of highway. Your Z looks great, a good example to build with. Chris

Not what I did today, but what I'll will be doing tomorrow. Taking HLS30-23305 to Westminster, Co to have my Mikuni's dyno tuned by Jeff Winter, http://rallye-sport.com/. I obtained the Mikuni's from Madkaw this winter and finally got them installed. Now ready to get them tuned by a pro. Looking forward to the drive tomorrow

it wasn't legal in any vehicle - still isn't, kinda follows the same rules as ALChol.