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yep.. red bird looks almost like my car ! yours looks much much better though ! made some progress, got the tank painted and back in the car and it runs ok now. it is amazing how good fuel pressure makes a car run alot better! ( still setting on jack stands ) now need to focus on getting the brakes working, and the suspension from flopping around... then i can drive it... oh and a functioning seat..

Good luck with the search. I installed the BRE covers in the early '70s and they held up well for a few decades. I've got an old BRE catalog somewhere and don't think the covers were too expensive when they were offered in the '70s. I still have the headlight pods with the metal mounting tabs like Galaxybj mentions above. I've got a spare set of pods and will be mounting factory style covers with metal trim rings before too long. They've rested in a box way too long. Dennis

I really don't see any issue with the integrity or honesty of @tse4me with regard to this potential sale, unless he actually backed out of an "accepted offer". His original wording regarding the price was "Looking to get 8-9K for it". To me this is not a fixed price and could be interpreted as "8-9K OBO" until a firm offer is accepted. But that's just me.

I've made two attempts to contact the seller starting two weeks ago and have had no response yet. I think the car was priced a little low and prob more in the $12k-$13k range based on the condition from pics. Considering shipping costs for out of state buyers, I would say it would have been a great buy. If the seller was not sure about pricing the car, then he should not have listed a price that he was looking to get. Suggestion to the seller the next time you want to sell a car and don't know the value, list the car on eBay with a million dollar reserve, start the auction at a penny and see what it ends for. That will give you an idea of what people are willing to pay for it with no risk to you.

Hey Mark, Which method power stering are you planning to use, the Subaru rack & pinion or the electric system like grannyknot? Nice fab work by the way. Chas

I was able to restore my car's corroded heater valve to good operating condition by soaking it for a couple of days in a household-type 'de-liming' liquid (same stuff that's used for cleaning up kettles and coffee-makers). The product I used is called 'C-L-R' (stands for, calcium-lime-rust, IIRC). Probably not available in the UK, but I'm sure you'll be able to find a similar product without much fuss. These heater valves are relatively bullet-proof... except for the little seal where the control rod exits the main valve body. If you take the valve out of the car to refurbish it, make sure you pressure-test before you refit it. If the little seal leaks, you're probably best to buy a complete replacement valve. To pressure test, cut a length of skinny bicycle inner tube, complete with the valve stem. Seal off one end (clamp it), then clamp the other end over a short length of heater hose. Then clamp the heater hose onto one of the heater valve's ports. Put your thumb over the other port, then pump some air into the inner tube. If you hear air escaping through the control rod's seal, it's time to order a new heater valve.

Jai, I would take a look at the switch mechanism's like ZedHead mentioned. I had something pretty similar happening several years ago and procrastinated and then I had smoke one evening billowing from the turn signal switch area in the steering column. One of my wires burnt up. There was quit a bit of corrosion in my switches. I had to rebuild them. Not saying this is your problem nor am I trying to scare you but, waiting and hoping it will go away isn't good. I would have it fixed as soon as you can.

It's most likely the relay in dmoralesbello's second picture. I have the same problem with my '76. Sometimes they blink and sometimes they don't. The hazards work fine, though. My plan is to replace the relay.