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Some of these might be repeats but all good. I have never seen so many Z's in one place before, it was a real candy store. I only had so much memory on my camera so these are a few of the car shots I took, the rest of the pics are in the wheels section.

this has to be one of the funniest videos ive ever seen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3IDhKtkui8

Glamor shots of the Z. I was playing with some LED lights in the cabin and snapping some pics As promised, some photos of the center console

I don't know how I missed this whole thread, must be getting old. Just bought one of these from zKars, it's a simple, elegant solution, thanks Jim. Chris

IMO, if you're going to work on the trans, clutch and oil pan, pull the engine and trans as an assembly. By the time you remove everything underneath to pull the trans and loosen the motor mounts to fix the pan gasket. there isn't much more to do to pull the engine. I've done it both ways. I'd rather drop an engine and trans in from the top, than stuff a trans in from the bottom. In my younger days I could do either method easily. Not now though. If you do pull the trans only, be sure you have enough clearance under the car to allow the height of the bellhousing to clear the underside of the car. It's a common dilemma.

I also found that disassembling the whole linkage, cleaning, using emery paper on bushings and shafts, grease, all made a big improvement. For me, prior to rebuilding it was hard to even rotate the ends that connect to the wiper arms.If your rubber pieces that surround joints are deteriorated, you can buy from 240z Rubber Parts. I even purchased some felt to cut new felt bushings for the joints; battery terminal felt sort of works but I found to be too big. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/

Out for Italian dinner last night with the Jims from the west coast. Nice time! Great to finally get together. So we do have Jims here, but always have room for more!

I'm with Cliff.....get rid of the brass....go to steel. While you're at it, get rid of that late E88 and get a better head....you have a low emission, low compression head

A redneck trick I learned is put the valve in an suck on the port opening to make sure it seals. You'll have a big ole black ring around your mouth but it works. Lap them with the straight compound then add some water to it to make it finer for the final lapping. You'll hear the difference. I took the suction cup off my lapping handle and found a brass fitting for it then chucked it up in my cordless drill. Made it alot quicker to get that smooth sound you want.

They look beat down. You should have them cut out and replaced with steel seats. I think I paid around $100 for my e31. What head is that? No protruding plug mound. Is it an n42?

That's actually my buddies. He sold it to me Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I didn't grab the $600.00 Z in Vancouver. However, my brother lives in Centralia. Probably the only person there that drives a Model A rat rod. Might be time to pay him a visit. HMMMMM! He has storage space. Lot's of it. Covered. He's single. Zed Head. You are one of the "trolling voices" driving my schiZophrenia. Honestly though, I appreciate it. The voices started in the summer of 73 when I sold my 69 SS 396 Chevelle and bought my first Z. Remember the gas shortage? The first piece that I saved from HIRO (my 71) was the air pump and all the extraneous B.S. that went with it. Still have it. (there might be a pattern here) I had sellers remorse only once when I saw the identical model Chevelle sell at Barrett-Jackson for $67,000 a few years back. The raw acceleration of the 396 was fun but Zs in corners are much better. The shed is done except for paint. Now I have to keep Kathy out of the loft. I already have a Z stash up there. I think I'm safe, she's afraid of heights.

Here are the latest pics. The interior is coming along. Still some electrical to finish.