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Haha we are getting married July 2nd and I'm a big car guy. I bought the z after I got my job and around the time my fiance and I started dating. She loves the car and it's a car I've always wanted. So this car kind of has special place in both our hearts. When I bought the car, it would over heat. So I got a new radiator and electric fans and pulled the dash to update the tach and replace the heater core. I haven't had a bunch of time to work on the car because of work and the race team I'm on takes up most of my time. So I'm taking a break from the race team between now and the wedding except for the weekend before we will be at Road America for a Pirrelli World Challenge race. I'm hoping to have the car running and cleaned up before then. Also fun things, we are making the beer, wine, and mead for the wedding ourselves. So good drinks, good company, and a great z it should be an excellent wedding! Thank you for your help and input! It's greatly appreciated! Here is the car: -Josh

Rockauto is dependable and the ZX distributor should work fine. Stick with that. We need to know more about this wedding that has a 1970 240Z as the honeymoon car though...

I'll be getting in late Monday night and leaving early on Friday. I figure a 10 hr drive towing the race car. Better than the two day trip to Memphis last year (106 degrees!!!) Unless something happens at the VRG vintage race in June, I have no intention of missing a chance to run Mosport. If you don't have a trailer, I know it's a long haul from say Georgia in an old car likely without A/C but there will be folks driving up from Texas and the New England club had nearly a dozen members in Nashville in 2010 and we drove our Zs the 1,100 miles. Just need to buy some more gas cans for the 110...

I'm following your footsteps, only behind your's by 7 months and a day. I washed and put some moisturizer on mine today after being down for over a year. After the Bellagio squirter, Wiped off

Patcon and Sweaty, thanks for the help. I repainted today with good results. There's still some orange peel and minor imperfections, but overall things are looking up.

When you get it working I can tell you how to operate it.

I'm away from home and have spotty internet access, so I can't go into much detail, but I'll do what I can. The device you are calling a "transistor?" is a coil or transformer of some sort. Hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like it only has two wires going to it, and if I remember correctly, the whole radio goes dead when it's not connected? If that's the case, it's probably what they call a "choke" and it's purpose is to filter out high frequencies on the power input line so the noise doesn't affect the electronics inside the chassis. If it is a choke on the incoming power, it exists to keep noise from the ignition coil from messing with the radio. Also the terminal block thingie looks to me to be a line of "feed thru capacitors" who are another means to filter signals. One feed thru for each wire entering or leaving the device. Can you take a pic of the other side of that block? Of course I'm looking on a tiny dark screen and am guessing... As for how stuff fits back in, my experience is that kind of equipment is so tightly packed that stuff only fits one way! Think Jenga or Tetris.

Thanks Steve. 1st model finished for inspection and test packaging - please note the lambda sensor plug on the Y-pipe collector.

Well this worked out just ducky! Leon bought my old Tune dizzy and I bought a new Blue Tooth model at a nice discount. Thanks to both of you! Nice slightly late birthday present. Now I have another thing to do on my IPhone while driving....

Hi all, I've been a bit lazy giving updates and kinda relied upon my FB page so I apologise to those of you who don't or won't FB ! Here are the latest photos with a few captions ! Tooling up for the revised Street-sport manifold. Preparation of the bulk items ready for treatment and assembly. Ok, it's happening - progress, but still lots to do.... JDM silencers in processing. There have been some fitting issues with the previous batch which have been addressed : thicker V-band clamp bolts (6-8mm) thicker fixing straps (5-8mm) replaced Street-sport lower flange bolt-holes chamfored edge under no.1 port (here in prototype) Getting there.....but just not quick enough - just 1 (sometimes 2x men working on them)....and stopping to take 'my' photographs ! Finally, delivery has been confirmed as the week beginning 18th July and I shall ensure that all pre-paid orders are sent out first that week as a priority - thankyou all for your trust and patience. Improvements are : 1) lambda sensor plugs in each 'Y' collecteur. 2) improved flange fitting and exhaust fixations 3) improved Street-sport manfold and Y-pipe collector 4) an even easier exhaust fitting and higher up towards the chassis. 5) a 2+2 extension to enable ALL the S30s to improve themselves. Any and all questions - just ask - a pleasure to hear from you.

I am once again amazed by the enormous amount of knowledge by folks in this club!

wow... you guys amaze me. salt bridge??!? who knew!

Are you sure you aren't drowning your engine when the ECU gets the WOT signal? You keep thinking that fuel is being cut because the engine misfires... Maybe you're dumping so much fuel at WOT that it just can't light it?

If the RPMS are over ~2800 and the idle contact touches the center contact then the ECU cuts fuel (this is normal behavior). From the description in post #29 paragraph 3 seems to indicate the fuel cuts off over 2800 rpm when the WOT contact connects to the center contact thus my supposition of reversed wiring. The fact that it does not happen with the TVS disconnected further points to the source. Comrades... a reference with chocolate hugs: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

Expanding on FastWoman's point - you're not reporting "no continuity" or open circuit at 4 degrees + off idle. You should see the idle circuit go open when the throttle blade is moved (looks like Pins 2 and 18). You might need a good meter to be sure that there is not some slight conductivity that would "trip the logic" as she suggests. In the same vein, I assume that the ECU TPS idle circuit monitoring itself could be bad. But I've never seen anyone report that. Still, the observations at 2800 and 3200 RPM should tell if any of this is even worth following up on.

Hmmm... I have some observations to make here based on the work I have done on my 1976Z. When I bought the car, most of the EFI parts had been removed (it was a jigsaw puzzle). While it was apart, I replaced the injectors with FJ707T (Standard Brand). After putting it back together it ran rough and rich. Had periodic cut outs, and the tach was jumpy. Replaced already upgraded ZX distributor with a rebuilt from Rock Auto which includes the ignition module. This fixed the tach and the cut out problem. Ran pretty good but still had issues. Replaced the AFM with a rebuilt from MSA and fixed vacuum leak BDCC (or is it BCDD). This made it run great except when cold. Replaced the Aux Air thing with a ball valve from Home Depot. When its cold, I pop the hood and open it half way before I start and let it run for a few minutes that way, then I close it and go. I have been running it daily for a while now (maybe a month). Getting 19MPG which I am disappointed in but I do lots of short trips. Work is only 8 miles from home. It does still seem a little rich to me based on exhaust smell. I suspected a problem with the TPS so .... I dis-connected it (yes, I will put a meter on it soon). It runs just fine without it. I want to see what the gas mileage is with it disconnected. My theory is that if it was stuck on rich, then it should now be stuck on normal. Its main purpose, as I understand it, is to richen the mixture a bit when cold and when full throttle (and shut off fuel when coasting). So, if you suspect the TPS, you can disconnect it but, based on my experience, I kind of doubt it would cause some of these problems unless there was something else going on as well. I have a home depot fuel pressure gauge after the fuel filter and its right on specs. Dan

I've never really understood why water in the TPS would cause the problem that it does but I think I have it figured out now, thanks to this thread. I attached the relevant passage from the FSM. Water in the TPS apparently makes the ECU think the throttle is closed. Details in attachment. One way to get a better idea of if it's the TPS is to watch the tachometer and note the RPM, when the cut out happens, and when it bucks. The tachometers aren't known to be super accurate so you may not see exactly 2800 and 3200 RPM, but if it happens consistently around those numbers, that would be a good indicator. If that's not it, then the old fuel pressure gauge poking out of the hood plan would let you know that you're maintaining fuel pressure. If you have proper pressure but it still cuts out, then electrical has more potential.