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headlight relays

ok I get it completely now, saw the same marks, used a dermal drum sander to reshape along the problem areas. Remove a little bit go check do again. Now I can shift and clearly see the detents are locking in before the shifter comes into contact with the oval hole on the striker rod head (that is where the marks come from. Glad I did this before installing, its much easier to see what happening with a bright light and getting close in.

This brings back painful memories of a 65 Mustang cast iron (heavy) 4 speed that wouldn't go in. Two of us tried repeatedly to muscle (no jack) it in until we were exhausted. Finally, in desperation, we pulled the clutch disc out and found a burr on one of the splines. Filed it down and made sure the disc slid easily on the input shaft splines. Trans. slid right in. Now I make sure the pilot bushing fits over the input shaft and the splines on the shaft and disc are compatible. I find it quite easy to double check the disc alignment by sight on a Z. There's enough room to get your head up in the tunnel and see if it's centered. Eyeballing or measuring the gap between the bellhousing and the engine is the best way to determine if the alignment is off. I prefer to have the tail shaft just a bit lower so I can lift the rear and push at the same time. Not to be confused with twerking.

I have the Auto Twirler Pro and it's great. I bought it with the Mopar mounts and they're similar to the Z mounts. I drilled an additional hole in the front mounts and made an adapter bracket for the rear mounts. I've built a 71 240Z, 72 240Z and 75 280Z on it so far. The first pic is my 240Z and the others are my 280Z. Both were painted Mopar's Curious Yellow. I got it at one of the Carlisle shows a few years ago. http://autotwirler.com/ Chuck

Hi Cliff, Looks like you have identified the problem, now the cure. Me personally, I would cut and weld the two together. You know the original ZX selector worked in the 5 speed and the bent selector has enough clearance in the console. Typical that 5th gear suffers this problem. I have heard of this problem before, but never experienced it. That way I asked those questions in post #4. At least its not in the transmission and thankfully you didn't pull it out to find that out. Is this the 280ZX 2+2 you found a while back?

There is a long nose shifter and a short nose. Both work 1 thru 4 but only the short nose will work to fully engage 5ht gear. I had that problem myself, only worse. Hopefully that is all your problem is.

new wiring harness finally arrived. i have a feeling im going to get flamed a bit, but while im out driving and you are sitting in the garage trying to figure out electrical problems................ i first found this place http://kwikwire.com/ when chasing electrical problems on my power wagon. $300 and a few days later, i had a new-like truck. anyhow, here are a few pics 14 circuits, plenty of wire and every wire is marked to where it goes

Is there enough material at the bottom of the shifter boot that you can just adjust how you clamp it to the console (left, right, front back) to allow a little more range of motion? Dennis

I'm not much of a 'Original Guy' but for fun here are the things I picked out that are not correct, -Overspray, wrong fuel pump, top throttle bell crank should be straight, brake master cyl caps, speakers in doors, wrong radio, missing bumperettes, headlights, P/S mirror(shouldn't be there), wrong D/S mirror, wrong antenna, wrong wheels, some kind of lock just to the left of P/S brake light, front marker lamps upside down, wrong wiper blades, shifter boot colour might be wrong, rear deck carpet from a later year. What did I miss? The only clue that there might have been a colour change is that little splash of Datsun orange paint just to the left of the P/S shock tower data plate. Looks like a solid $14,000 car in need of complete restoration to me.

I have a question. How did you get the old bushings out? Did you punch them out with a hammer from the outside in? Its looks like the control arm is compressed, judging by the photo's. These control arms are strong in cetain directions and in others not. Measure the distance between the control eyes. The distance should be 141mm. The stub axle is 135mm which gives you 3mm for the lip on each PU bush. If you spred the control arm with a jack, make sure its met these measurements.

Don't forget the good old coolant temperature sensor. The #1 cause of running rich (aka "over fueling"), I believe.

You should put a cheap fuel pressure gauge on one of the fuel lines. Your return line could be pinched or clogged. Fuel pressure regulator may be bad, is the vacuum hose connected to it? Hard to believe all six injectors went bad. Tap them with a screwdriver to unstick the pintle's valve maybe? You can put the screwdriver handle to your ear and the tip on the injector body and listen for a tapping noise. If they're tapping they are working. Good luck!

Regarding the clips that hold the shifter boot to the console, I had a similar experience with a thicker than original boot. I used spring type paper clips instead of the Nissan boot clips. The spring clips come in various sizes and are the type that hold 20 or more pages together. They have the levers that open the clip and then fold back over the clip. Dennis

RS Watanabe has data. NISSAN 240ZG 114.3-4 Best fitting size Front 15"-8.5J -6 Rear 15"-9.5J -19 Max size Front 16"-8.5J -6 Rear 16"-9J -13 Tire size Front :225/50 Rear 245/45