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Here are a few dims from my spare 240Z rear bumper

I don't know why the reply function double spaces on my computer. It did not use to as I recall.

If you have access to a wrecking yard I've found that mid to late 90's Honda Passports and Isuzu Rodeos have a valve on a metal T on the front of the engine. They can be removed with some side-cutters, then cleaned up with a tubing cutter. Cheap and solid. I have one permanently mounted on my engine and a couple in the garage for whenever.

The last thing on most of the troubleshooting guides is "replace control unit". You're at that point, I think. It's relatively easy to do, for a flexible person with a Phillips head screwdriver, and almost impossible to break something while trying it. It's a no-brainer if you have one available.

You're welcome, no problem getting you dims for the rear as well later today. I work from home so this kind of stuff reminds me to take a break and stretch my legs.

I need some help guys, I having trouble determining what the distance is between the two outer bolts (Studs) on the early 240Z bumpers and the ones from FutoFab. Im using a fibreglas bumper for now, but it has one long fits all kind of slot. CanTechZ gave me the inner distance, but Im getting contradicting information on the internet (I shouldn't be surprised) about the distance between the inner and outer two bolts. I made a sketch of what I miss. Any help appreciated. Edit: If someone has this info on the rear bumper, That would top it off nicly. Im also buzy with the rear brackets and have the same problem. Thanks FrontBumper bolt location.pdf

Yes, I have found out first hand that 240Zs are highly sought after in Europe with 2 out of 3 of my former refreshed 240Zs were purchased by European buyers. My son's and my '71 918 Orange/black car went to France about 8 years ago and my '71 904 White/blue car went to Italy (now in Hungary) a little over 2 years ago.

Here's a advert for a US Import 240Z in one of our Claassic Car Magazines, I don't know if it will fetch the asking price here in the UK, but there's plenty of potential across Europe as they are LHD on the continent.

Cliff, Remember it doesn't get any more southern than South Carolina. The buckle on the belt and the first to start a fight...

Nothing beats a dry state car. Knowledgeable collectors target black plate California, New Mexico, Texas and best of all Arizona cars. And those cars command a premium. My 280Z is an un-restored all original Arizona survivor car. Bought by the original owner in 1978 right here in Phoenix, Arizona at ABC Datsun. Been here the whole time. Never wrecked, all original and not a spot of rust ANYWHERE. Not a perfect trailer queen, but looks & runs like new. People ask me all the time if I will sell it. I tell them to get me a bank check for $35K and its theirs. A few scoff, wanting to buy it low ball. I tell them to buy a cheap rusty roached out junker on Craigslist and let me know how much they spent when they get done restoring it. Unless they are exceptionally skilled and thrifty and rich in time, they will spend well north of $35K to get their junker to my cars level.

Sounds a lot like the AFM fuel pump relay contact switch. You can jump the switch under the AFM black cover with an alligator clip or just holding it closed with your finger. Clean it first with a match book striker or similar. I'd try that first, just to make sure the pump is staying running. It's the easiest. Posted a link with a picture. I wouldn't do the other stuff it shows at this time. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

Hi and welcome to the club. If you have a gauge you can test the system easily. Fit the gauge between the fuel filter and the line that goes to the fuel injectors. What you describe sounds line its running out of fuel directly after starting. That coud be caused by several things. just to name a threw: 1. Fuel tank full of rust and gunk blocking the fuel pickup. 2. Gunk in the pump inlet filter or in the pump if the filter has been removed. See photo. 3. Fuel filter is blocked. 4. It could be running on fuel from the cold start valve, but the injectors are clogged up and not supplying enough fuel to keep running. I would start with those simple things first.

I think its the difference between electronics industry and automotive electrics. Like the way we see resistors as a zig zag and in the electronics world I see it mostly as a rectangular symbol We use these symbols where I work mostly for loop sheets and such. http://www.circuitstoday.com/electronic-circuit-symbols

The lines are fuel supply, fuel return to gas tank, carbon canister vacuum and canister purge. The lines can be tracked in this photo.