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In my 1978 5-speed 280Z I recently changed the oil in my transmission to Mobil 1 75W-90 synthetic GL-5 gear oil. No sooner did I do this than I started reading that GL-5 rated oils will attack the copper/brass metal parts inside the transmission and that you must use "safe" GL-4 rated oils if your transmission contains "yellow" metals. This did not make me happy at all and drove me into an intense research mode. There is much, MUCH conflicting information on the internet concerning this topic. After hours of research I came across this engineering white paper, which is the most logical, scientific and rational information I could find. I wanted to share it with you. The engineering study is all interesting, but if you want the facts on the corrosive natures of different oils on "yellow" metals scroll down to page 16. Bottom line is I will be keeping my GL-5 Mobil 1. http://www.oilteksolutions.com/GearLubeWhitePaper.pdf

x2 for the Sil-Glyde. The grease doesn't seem to dry out like the spray. Sil-Glyde is also good on the hatch seal w/strip. That squeaking can drive you nuts.

Just an FYI and please draw your own conclusions, but.... K&N filters are one of the biggest marketing Hype jobs ever made. Like everyone else I bought into that Hype until I was warned by a couple of Diesel and Industrial engine builders of the short comings of K&N style filters. I started reading articles ( other than the Paid Marketing Hype in Hot Rod and Super Chevy )..... and the truth started to come out. K&N filters ( and all similar Cotten Gauze air filters ) are great on Race cars. Not so good on Daily Drivers. They flow a lot of air compared to paper Element filters but K&N filters do not Filter air as well as Paper Element filters. Cotton Gauze style filters tend to catch the big stuff, but cannot stop the very fine particulate matter. I found this out for myself in the early 1990's when I noticed fine particulate dust gathered on the inside of my Moroso open element air cleaner, after a trip through a dusty desert region . The air cleaner flanges were sealed with K&N grease and the filter was properly oiled. So the dust was only getting in one way. This was confirmed by my engine builder when we pulled the engine down for a " Freshen ". We found evidence of very fine particulate dirt lightly scoring the bores and bearings. My engine builder advised me to run a Paper element filter on the Street and only use the K&N for racing. You will NEVER find a Big Rig or Bus Diesel engine equipped with K&N style filters from the manufacturer. EVER. Big Diesel engines use Paper Element filters and are monitored with a flow gauge that tell you when the Filter is getting clogged. Obviously, operation on a dry dusty Logging road is going to vastly different from a Hwy hauler. I've been driving Big Rig Fleet machinery since 1992... and have talked to Detroit and Cummins mechanics about this very subject. They all recommend Paper Element filters for the Big Diesels. Factory air filters are very good for what they are designed for. And the Nissan Air ( and Oil filters ) are very good. Here is one of the best Independent papers available on Air filter medians. Very good reading and no BS. Edit: Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons. http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrolet-gmc-diesel-tech-articles/16611-duramax-air-filter-testing.html

I have no plans to use it in the near future (unless needed for the 72Z you sold me John) It will probably hang on the wall for a few years until the next rusty Z gets pushed into the garage. I emailed Charlie at Zeddfindgs to see if he wanted to have a go at it but never heard back from him. I may make up a card stock pattern. Chris

Yep, here on the west they also use sand. They've been talking about spray chemicals but the environmentalists are all over their asses about it. I agree that salt makes the ice older, but it does melt. The thing I don't understand is why they continue using something that literally acts like acid on everything it touches. Have you ever seen how salt eats away at concrete ? We use it on sidewalks here and I can literally see pits and cracks caused by the stuff. I wonder if there has ever been a class action lawsuit against the highway dept from car owners. It's horrible on cars.

I've used Sil-Glyde on mine in the past. I believe it is silicone grease. I got between the overlap of the covers with a cotton swab covered in Sil-Glyde. That is where my creaking was coming from.

no cars worth posting - other than the z of course... built 43 one a while back: custom frame, bodywork, exhaust, gsxr front end, ducati ds1000 engine and supersport swing arm. pulled off the efi and set up an msd ignition off the layshaft pulley, then fit a pair of flatslide carbs on it. 335 lbs with a full tank of gas - it has an intense desire to rotate about its rear axle in the first 3 gears... 42 is a slightly less extensive build, donor bike was 2006 ducati sport classic, custom fairing, exhaust, gsxr front end, seat/tail and a few other bits. this one is my touring rig - have another seat that will accommodate my wife. we do 1,000 - 2,000 mile trips every summer. great fun!